SMOOTH CAMERA!! | Tutorial – BeamNG.Drive – Useful for Crash Compilations! [2016 / Working 0.5.6]

SMOOTH CAMERA!! | Tutorial – BeamNG.Drive – Useful for Crash Compilations! [2016 / Working 0.5.6]


[Intro Music] Hello everybody, this is Jayo here. Today I’m going to show you how to get a smooth free roam camera in BeamNG.Drive! So it’s very simple, all you have to do is press “F11” to go into the world editor, and then go into “Camera”, and then into “World Camera” and then select “Smoothed Rotate”. If you want you can also change the camera speed up here but I’m going to leave it at the default which is 25. So, once you’ve done that you can just hit “F11” again to exit the world editor, and then as you can see now we have a nice smooth camera. So, that is it, it’s very simple to do as I said and this is quite handy if you want to record a crash compilation video or something like that and you want a smooth camera. So if this did help you out then make sure to give it a thumbs up and subscribe for more! If you need any more help leave a comment down below and I’ll do my best to help you. Thank you so much for watching and I’ll see you in another video! Goodbye! [Outro Music]

The Power of Forgiveness | The Science of Happiness

The Power of Forgiveness | The Science of Happiness


Particpant 1: You were so cold to my friends
and so incredibly rude. P2: I do have value, dammit.
P3: I need to forgive so then that I’m not bitter towards the next guy that comes around. Julian: Forgiveness, what does that even mean? Does it mean admitting you’re wrong? Is it
a sign of weakness? If you’re asking for something do you lose the upper hand. How many times
have you decided not to forgive someone. Maybe they didn’t deserve it. What’s the point,
why even bother, right? Hey, it’s fine, it’s none of my business, we don’t have to get
into them. Let’s get selfish for a minute. What’s in it for you? What would you say if
I told you that psychologists have found a substantial correlation between reduced stress,
better heart health, lower anxiety, lower pain perception, and most importantly, higher
overall happiness all attributed to your ability to be a forgiving person. Well today we thought
we would dive in check it out for ourselves. As usual we brought in a selection of subjects,
gave them all a test that gave us a fairly good idea of their level of happiness. And
as usual they had no idea what we were doing. We started by asking them to close their eyes
and picture somebody that they were currently holding a grudge against or had some sort
of unresolved conflict with. P1: Okay.
Julian: You got that person in mind? P1: Mhm.
P3: Mhm. P2: Mhm.
Julian: Then we asked them to write out who this person was, what the event was that caused
this tension between them, how they felt about it, and most importantly we asked them to
in their own words and in their own way, try and forgive that person.
You had a bit to say didn’t you. P4: A bit. Yeah.
P5: Well, it’s my sister. P3: We dated.
P4: It’s kind of been in my head a lot so getting it down on paper kind of gave me an
image of what I felt pretty much. P2: Well this particular person was my stage
partner in a magic act that me and this person did together.
Julian: Go on! P5: And we never got to hang out as often
as I wished. Julian: Since you already have it written
out do you think you would be willing to share it with us?
P4: Yeah sure! P1: Yeah, it was a colleague at work.
Julian: There’s one more bit to this, would you be willing to do it into a mirror?
P2: A mirror? Julian: Yes!
P1: Sure. I feel like we are work colleagues and we
should have a more of a common respect for each other.
P2: So, we started trying to develop a different show together and as that started happening
everything started breaking down and we would just get into worse and worse fights.
P4: This person was a girlfriend I had a while back. Things escalated quick with us and we
enjoyed each others company but what I found out about her I couldn’t bring myself to forgive.
P1: I would love to be valued at work. Appreciation, just a small at the end of the day thank you.
You did a good job. P3: This is a case of just knowing someone
for a very long time and being just the one person that he always went to when things
would go wrong. P4: I found out that most of the stories she
told me about her life were all lies. P2: He just decided to up and essentially
leave for four months and completely ruin any chances I had of starting another act.
P4: I’m not sure if she was just trying to seem like an interesting person or just wanted
some attention, but she already had mine. P1: I’ve tried to forgive you, I’ve tried
to forgive you many times for acting this way and it seems like when I do, I open myself
up to getting the door slammed in my face again. P2: I am valid as a performer, I do have ideas and I can create things and I have created
things. P1: In order for me to completely forgive
you I feel like I need to feel the respect that you give to everybody else on me as well.
I don’t feel that. P5: However, not that I am out in Los Angeles,
thousands of miles away from home, I’m afraid I’ll never have as great of a chance to help
you through life struggles. P3: You never know who to trust but you can’t,
I can’t put everything on him. But you know when it did end, I was a little relieved because
I didn’t do it on my own for this whole seven years.
P2: We were doing this act for four years and I got really like. Even you know like
you can logically understand that you do have value in the world if you want that from one
particular person it’s just going to take a little while to let go of everything.
P1: And I know sometimes that I am a difficult person.
P3: Sometimes we want to change people. P1: I feel like we would be better if we could
forgive each other and just kind of start anew, people make mistakes.
P5: I want you to know I do care about you and I’m always thinking about you. If there’s
ever anything that you need from me, I’ll be there for you.
P1: If you could just treat me just like you do your best friend at work, I think we would
be completely cool! P2: I’ve had to keep a lot of stuff in but
it feels good! P4: Having a grudge is not fun and it’s sometimes,
forgiveness just comes from within. Learn to forgive and learn to move on.
Julian: Well, the results are in and we found in our subjects an average increase in happiness
of 8% but the highest increase was 28%. Now what does this mean about forgiveness. Most
people think forgiveness is something that takes two people, a forgiver and a forgivee.
But what we found today is reaping the benefits of forgiveness doesn’t require anyone except
you. Now it doesn’t mean you have to reconcile with them or even say a word to them because
forgiveness doesn’t mean excusing or forgetting what happened. Forgiveness is something you
do for yourself to lower your psychological distress by getting rid of those negative
emotions. So, is there anybody from your past you’re holding a grudge against? I’ve shown
you the door, now it’s up to you to walk through it. I’m Julian, and this has been The Science
of Happiness. SoulPancake
Subscribe!

Business Portrait On-location Photo Shoot (behind-the-scenes & Photoshop)

Business Portrait On-location Photo Shoot (behind-the-scenes & Photoshop)


So we’re on our way to a shoot at a car
dealership. I was hired to take pictures of all of the employees there for their
website. So I’m bringing my 5D Mark III, and what do you have there, Tony? -this is the backup camera it’s a 5d mark
II and you have the 70-200 which is perfect for
headshots. This is a 24-105 the nice Sigma f/4 and
again it’s just a back up, we shouldn’t ever need this. We also don’t plan to use the flash, but
if everything else fails if that Cyber Commander fails to trigger the strobes.
we can use the optical slaves from the flash here. -It’s always good to have a back-up, plan
on something failing. So we’re going to load up our car here
and just tell you what here we’re bringing as we load it up. This is our large Paul C. Buff
collapsible soft box so that will give a nice diffused light if there isn’t
adequate lighting in the dealership. -This is the Paul C. Buff Einstein E-640
which will attach to that soft boxe, this will be our main light. Here I have just a
bracket on the stand, it’s just useful to have one of these, you can attach
anything to it. -These are our Vagbond Mini by Paul
C. Buff and they’re batteries to hook our strobes up to/ -That way we don’t have to attach or have power
cords running everywhere where people might trip over it, it’s a little easier
outside of the studio. This is a reflector and we have
diffusers inside as well. Getting pretty crowded in there. -And this
is going to be a hair light or background light as we need it, just a
second light. It will be triggered by the Cyber Commander just like that Einstein
light and will run it from the other Vagabond. -I was told there would be a nice
background there but you’re never sure, we didn’t scope out the place yet so I
was going to use the white side of this backdrop in case their background wasn’t
very appealing. Throw that in there. I also brought a
lint brush just to make sure everyone is nice and clean. I have some painters tape to mark the
spot where everyone can stand so that everyone’s in the same location. And… some tape to hold the backdrop against the wall. -And this is a Panasonic
GH2 on a tripod, this is just going to be a b-roll camera for the
behind-the-scenes. The GH2 is a micro four thirds camera and it’s a little bit
old now but records great 1080p video and it runs forever, it doesn’t shut off
after 30 minutes like most DSLRs do. -I think that’s it. We just have to grab our coats and head
out. -Let’s go. -Alright. You might be able to find an angle where
we could get this line of cars in it, we have to stand up a little bit to look
down but we might be able to do that. -I was thinking this is a little too
colorful. -Yeah it is. You want to do it in my office then? -I have that, the other side is white. -yeah
the wall might be easier, I don’t know how much room there is in there. -yeah -The one other thing for this Tony, is that
we don’t have the nice natural light. -Yeah the lightning is, uh… rough. -We’ll have to use this.. -it’s a little tight to bring
lighting in. And I think we’ll just have one of us
stand behind him with the reflector -Yeah, I think it’ll be easy, so let’s get one more,
I’ll get my settings I’ll put a mark on the floor and we’ll get it done. You guys ready? Yeah will you be my model one more time? So I’m really glad that we picked a spot
that has natural light because a lot of the people here are different heights
and I would have had to adjust the softbox with every different person, it
would have been a lot more set up. So my recommendation for you would be to look
for natural light and bring a flash for fill light. -But be prepared in case it
doesn’t work out and you have to have artificial light. One of the reasons we
picked the 5D Mark III for this job is it takes two memory card slots and it can
write to both cards simultaneously. That way if one of the cards has a
problem we have another copy and we don’t have to go back and reshoot
everything. Yeah there you go. I didn’t think that it was the best I
could have done, I would have preferred if they came into the studio. I mean I know that that wasn’t possible. So now I’m back in my office and i’ve uploaded my pictures. I’m going to show you how to sort
through them, rate them and even edit them. Now that I have my photo in
Photoshop, I’m going to start by cleaning up my subject’s skin. So I have a filter
called portraiture and I love it and it does a really good job. It smooths out the
skin without taking away all the pores, which can kind of leave people looking a
bit lifeless and doll-like. So i’ll zoom in a bit more on his face so I can see
exactly what Portraiture is doing. I don’t want to lose any of these fine
lines or anything like that because it would make him look unnatural. So you can see, I can up the threshold
here and it smooths them out way too much. Looks like a boudoir shot or something
and this is a professional photo so he’s definitely not going for that. These
sliders here control the details. So this would control the large details and
smooth it out less if you were to bring them down and I actually think that looks
pretty good. Let me turn down the fine details a bit so
play around with it, it’s definitely to taste. And my only suggestion would be to
not smooth out people skin too much. Not even women. If you notice any residual marks, you can see there are a few just little
pores you can leave them in and use other tools in Photoshop to take care
of that. So i’m satisfied with this for now and then i’ll zoom in and use my
other tools to take care of any other small imperfections. So I want my spot
healing brush and i use my left bracket. I don’t want to remove too many things
because once again it will look just too unnatural and smooth. I think that looks pretty good the one
other thing I’m going to do is in person I didn’t see that his brow is furrowed at
all so I’m going to take the little furrow out of his brow. And I’ll just
use my lasso tool, circle it, delete and then use content
aware fill, that usually does a good job. And then use Ctrl D to deselect the area. I like to just zoom in to make sure it
looks natural and that actually doesn’t look too great. So I’m gonna try it again. That looks much better. The next thing I’m going to do is just brighten his teeth a little bit. They look great,
they are nice and white, but we’re used to seeing very white teeth in in the media so it’s
nice to just kind of brighten them up a tad bit. And here i added a new layer and i use
the overlay layer I select my paintbrush and use bright
white. You’re going to think this looks insane
but you just fill in just the front teeth. This is really bright, but once i’m done
i’m going to turn down the opacity and it will look natural. We’ll see I don’t want to whiten them them too much. So I’ll zoom out and make sure it looks natural. You can even turn down your opacity on
your brush a little bit it to get these back teeth, but remember that the back
teeth are usually a bit darker, so if you make these really bright, let me show you what I mean. I can’t really because i have the
opacity down, but if you make these too bright it won’t look good. Ok. So the teeth look nice and next I’m
going to just brighten his eyes a tad bit. So i’ll use my Dodge tool, I have the
mid-tones selected and my exposure down to thirty percent and I just do a little half circle. Let me see And the next thing I’m going to do here,
just because he has fair skin is just fill in his eyebrows a
little bit. They’re in the midtones, so I have the mid-tone selected and my
exposure is really low, it’s only sixteen percent, and i’m just going to define
them a little bit. Lastly I’m going to brighten up the
background. I’ll do that by selecting the background
and i’m going to use let’s see, I think I’ll use my magic wand tool
to fix the areas that it’s selected that I don’t want selected I can use this
tool to subtract from the selection but I usually like to press alt, the alt key,
and then it does it for you. You can also use this button here to add to the selection, but i’m actually going to use
layer masks and i’ll show you how. If you aren’t great at selecting by hand, you can
also use the mask tool which i think is easier. So i’m going to show you how to
select the background better using the mask tool. So i will go to the
brightness and contrast and i’m going to raise the brightness of the background,
you can see i missed a big chunk, but that’s not a big deal because then I can
go into the mask and use my paintbrush with either black or white to add or
subtract to the selected area. So white is going to add to the selected area, so I
will make my brush bigger by pressing the right bracket and then just paint it
in. And I selected the wrong parts here, so i’ll use black to get rid
of that. So you can see this is the before and it
still looks natural just a bit brighter and better and this is the after. Since they’re professional photos, you
don’t want them to look too glamorous or touched up that can actually be
embarrassing if they’re going to be meeting with a client and in their
picture they look 40 years younger, that’s going
to be off-putting to the client. So make sure that it looks like they
look in real life but just the best version of themselves. That’s it, pretty simple! If you like this
video please subscribe to our channel and if you like our lessons and teaching
style you can check out our book Stunning Digital Photography. Thank you!

Etiquettes of Voting – Miss Manners Che Sanskar Varga | Vidhansabha Elections 2019 |#bhadipa

Etiquettes of Voting – Miss Manners Che Sanskar Varga | Vidhansabha Elections 2019 |#bhadipa


Hello, I am miss manners, also known as the English Lady or ‘gori mam’ from Lagaan, etc etc. So, this white lady is here once again to teach you… such a pity! In everyday life we keep expressing our views on every random thing. You guys get extremely difficult to handle in the comments section of my videos, but can’t help it… Anyhow I just can’t take you seriously! But on one day, your opinion is valued no matter who you are. That day is Voting Day. So in today’s class let’s see the Etiquettes of voting! So Bigg boss, little champs, Favourite Dancer, Best Mother in law and Sister in law all receive your enthusiastic votes! But now is the time to vote for insignificant categories like MPs / MLAs. This has 2 benefits First, you know whom hold accountable for the next 5 years and plus you get the bragging rights. The most important among all Voting Etiquettes is to gather information about the candidates. You take a lot of effort stalking cute guys/girls on Facebook/Instagram, just take half the amount of effort to go on the state’s CEO website and get to know the candidate. Don’t give importance to what their caste/religion is. Just ask them 2 questions, what work they have done before and if they have taken a bath! Also don’t accept any sort of gift or ‘Chai-pani’ from him because taking a bribe from the candidate is as shameful as making videos on stupid apps. I know your laziness will definitely give you 1000 reasons to not vote, But just remember that’s why you are single too. Not because you don’t vote but because your are lazy. Lastly I’ll tell you, after voting do not forget to post a photo with your finger on social media and after you choose your MLA subscribe to BHADIPA with full majority. Jay BhaDiPa! If you’ve already voted, let us know in the poll attached! If you haven’t yet, still tell us! And follow the etiquettes. My well-mannered babies!

How to use 3 speedlights for an editorial beauty shoot

How to use 3 speedlights for an editorial beauty shoot


Hey guys welcome to a new video here on phloshop
my name is Joseph. In today’s video we’re going to be talking
about shooting a 3 light beauty editorial with speed lights.
If you think it’s something you’d be interested in kindly stay till the end of the video. Let’s roll the intro. So today we’d be shooting a 3 light beauty
editorial with speed lights with Najat and we have Coffee Session styling and art directing.
We also have Joseph on the makeup. canvasbackdrops. Was supportive enough to
send us a few hand painted backdrop samples to use for the shoot and we chose this warm
toned colour as it complemented the look we were going for. I will put their links in the video so you
can check them out. let’s just jump right into the shoot. I’m using my Canon 6D mark 1,
3 Godox speed lights A 120cm octabox from Fotodiox as the main
Modifier In front of the model positioned slightly to the camera left
A 71cm octabox also from Fotodiox as the rim light placed behind the model and shifted
to camera right to add some separation. In order to add even more separation we added
a 3rd light right behind the model with a grid on it directed towards the backdrop.
That created a bright point or hotspot and graduated towards the edges, adding depth
to the image. We wanted a bit of a fiery look hence the
choice of the warm colours ranging from the headgear, lipstick, background and maybe the
tube. I’m not sure how the final crop would be like but if i would include more of the
chest then I’ll change the colour of the tube to a slightly warmer colour or leave
it as it is. It would depend on my mood when I’m post processing the image. Subscribe to my channel and turn on the notifications
icon so you’re notified when I release the videos on how I retouch these images. I’ll
also put a link in the description of that video that leads to the raw file of the image
I edit so u can follow along so be sure to like, subscribe and share my
video. Back to the video, I placed the main light with the speed light
above and about 4ft away from the model, angled it down towards the model at about 45 degrees.
The rim light was placed behind he model and the position and power setting was adjusted
till I got the light where I needed it to be. I’ll take a test shot and see how this looks.
Well, This could pass for a decent shot.. but we wanted to go a step further that’s
why we added the 3rd light behind the model, gridded it to prevent a lot of light spill,
but rather focus the light right in middle I’ll add another image here so u can see
the difference. Without the third light, now with the third
light. For this I wanted a bit of a dreamy or blurry
background to balance out the rather powerful, fierce and edgy expression we made the model
portray with her poses. This required that I shoot at about F2.8.
On my canon 85mm 1.8. The other settings were shutter speed at 1/160s
and iso 100. Once she had the idea of what we wanted we
just went on clicking and varying angles till we got what we wanted. Yh so with three speed lights we’ve been
able to shoot a 3 light beauty editorial on a budget.
Let me know what you think in the comments down below. Also if you enjoyed this video kindly give
it a like as this helps us create more content, Go BEZErK on the Subscribe button if you haven’t,
And I’ll see u in the next one.

【10 Digital Art Tips】 For Beginners

【10 Digital Art Tips】 For Beginners


Hello and welcome to my first digital tutorial
on this channel. I’ve uploaded some digital speedpaints before,
and even though they are a bit older at this point, I still recommend checking them out
afterwards. But a tutorial on digital art? I’ve never done that because I don’t really
feel that consistent with the way I work digitally. I mean, there are probably a dozen ways to
draw a simple circle so you can imagine the many ways to do digital art in general. Personally I tend to shift my way of working
with almost every picture. But there are basic tools and methods that
have been consistent for me and I want to share those with you. I will mostly use Photoshop and a bit of Clip
Studio Paint, because these are the ones I have the most experience with. But a lot of these of these tips will be transferable
to other software and often the way you do things are very similar. 1. Work with Shortcuts
Before starting a digital artwork it is helpful to know about the keyboard shortcuts that
are available. These will save you an immense amount of time,
especially if your tablet has express keys to assign them to. There are lots of different preferences and
you might not even know some of these exist. So let me give you a few recommendations that
I use:. Ctrl+Z for undoing things is the most common
and should definitely always be on your mind or assigned to one of your expresskeys Holding R allows you to rotate your canvas
freely and therefore is also a nice shortcut you might want to keep for an expresskey. Then we have Ctrl+T which is for the transform
tool and helpful if you started to big or too small. Scale, rotate or distort things with this. Ctrl- and Ctrl+ is for zooming and especially
timesaving so I have them on express keys as well. Of course this becomes obsolete if your touch
enabled tablet allows you to pinch to zoom with your fingers. The Alt key, while in brush mode, activates
the color picker as long as you hold it. I use it so frequently that I have it assigned
to a button on my stylus. This is incredibly helpful with painting,
but more on that later. For the other button on the stylus I usually
use the Right-Click, which in Photoshop lets you browse through your brush set and adjust
the size of the brush. 2. Pick your Brushes
Early on when I started digital art I really got caught up with brushes, playing around
and even creating some of my own from photos with really low resolution. I thought that other digital artists were
only so good because they had that one specific brush that I would never get my hands on. There are some brushes that are perfect for
a highly specific thing like certain textures, clouds or chains. But for most of your drawing and painting
process, a simple round brush is often enough. You can change the pen pressure, the hardness
and opacity and I learned that this already gives you a lot of options in your hand. But it can also be a lot of fun to try out
different brushes, so I will link a few awesome brush sets in the description of this video. And while you’re there, click the Like button
😉 3. Sketching
For sketching I typically use a simple round brush with slightly reduced opacity. Why a lower opacity? When you’re drawing many lines over or along
each other, the areas they have in common will come out stronger. This acts as a great guide for when you work
on your lineart later. You can of course experiment with different
brushes if you want your sketch to have a certain aesthetic. Make sure to put the sketch on its own layer. That way you can color it if needed. Try not to lose yourself in details too much
and rather focus on the overall composition and proportions. When working digitally you can easily mirror
the image, which can quickly expose errors that you might overlook because you get so
used to your drawing in its regular orientation. 4. Use the Liquify and transformation tool
When you spot mistakes after drawing for a bit, there are great tools you can use to
avoid having to draw everything from scratch again. Two of these are the liquify and transform
tools. As I mentioned, you can mirror the sketch
to see any oddities that have gone unnoticed and then use the liquify tool to push and
warp everything to its correct place. I love this tool because you can just play
around with it, because sometimes you are not really sure what exactly is wrong with
your drawing until you see it corrected. A tool like Liquify can also be found in Krita
and Gimp. But another helpful tool that is also included
in Clip Studio Paint is the transform tool. There is a bit of a difference between those
programs but the application is pretty similar and great to use on details. Use a lasso and circle the area you want to
change, the eyes for example. Then use transform to create a grid to warp
the subject to your liking. It’s especially helpful when you want to match
objects to a certain perspective, like for example add posters to a wall. An important note though: The liquify or the
transformation tool is best used while you are still in the sketching process because
they lower the quality of the areas you work on. Lines for example often become noticeably
blurry afterwards. With the sketch it usually is no big deal,
since it will most likely disappear later in the process anyway. But if you warp your lineart heavily you might
notice it. 5. Lineart vs. Painting
Something that you should be aware of once you are satisfied with your sketch is that
you can go in basically two different directions from there. You can continue and start working on a lineart
which is often the case with manga or cartoon drawings that have significant lineart. Or you can work in a more painterly manner
for a rendered look. In that case you want to work with areas and
only use the sketch as your guide. If you choose the lineart route you would
first create a new layer on top of your sketch. To set the lineart apart from the sketch in
the process, you can either lower the opacity of the underlying sketch layer or you can
color it. Either way, doing this will help you distinguish
the lineart from the sketch while keeping both visible. Doing the lineart can often be quite exhausting
in my experience. A lot of time is wasted on undoing brush strokes
which you’re trying to match to the underlying sketch. Unfortunately there is no real shortcut around
this, other than for example copying or mirroring single elements to re-use them wherever possible. For drawing Linearts I recommend using Clip
Studio Paint or Paint Tool SAI rather than Photoshop. Clip Studio Paint creates very crisp and sharp,
thin lines that look a lot cleaner compared to the ones you can do in Photoshop for example. After years of using both I always end up
feeling that lineart done in Photoshop comes out more rough, sketchy and shaky. But of course you can use whatever you like
most. When it comes to architecture or other objects
with lots of even, straight lines I can recommend Photoshop. Turn off the pen pressure and hold shift to
connect points with a line easily. If you want to go more into realistic rendering,
just skip the lineart and move on to the next step which is … 6. Creating a base
First we want to create a basic layer that helps us stay inside the lines when we color. One way to do it is using the lasso tool to
trace the outer line of your drawing. This way you make a selection of the inside
that you can then fill on a seperate layer. With a tidy and clean lineart that doesn’t
have any gaps, the magic wand can save you some time. Select the space outside of our drawing and
then invert the selection. This effectively selects the inside of your
lineart. Fill it and you have a solid base layer. Once we have that, we want to make sure we
only paint on the base and not outside of it. For that, you can lock the layer. Now, you can only paint on the parts of that
layer that already have color in them. 7- Clipping layers
If you are scared of making mistakes – like me – and also want to quickly adjust and
change things, make sure to try using clipping layers. For that you need to right click on your layer
and select “Create clipping mask”. Here you can see me being able to paint everywhere. But as soon as I create a clipping mask, everything
outside the area that we defined with our base layer disappears. Only the areas that overlap with the base
layer can now be seen. The rest gets clipped. This is super helpful, because now we only
have to focus on the area inside the line art. Using this technique you can create layers
for the single purposes like hair, skin, eyes, clothes. Basically as many as you like. Just keep in mind that you will quickly increase
the number of layers and navigating hundreds of them can become quite confusing. Anyway, now that we have our base done, we
can start shading. 8. How to use the Color Picker
The color picker is one of the essential tools for digital painting. As I said previously, I recommend assigning
it to a button on your stylus, or at least somewhere easily reachable. The color picker – asits name implies – picks
up the visible color so you can use that as follows. Chose the layer you want to paint on and start
with a shadow tone for example. Now you can hold the key for the Color Picker,
pick up a transition tone, let go of the key and you can immediately keep painting with
your brush. Of course this also works with highlights
or just to keep a consistent color scheme, because you only use colors that are already
present in your painting. 9. Smudging tool is not as bad as it seems
For a long time I despised the smudging tool because it has such a characteristic look
when you try to implement it in your work. But that was because I didn’t know how to
use it properly. The smudge tool actually is pretty versatile. You can use different brushes with it, creating
different effects. You can use it for textures and interesting
transitions. What I love to use it for is to soften edges. For example, I start cel-shading a piece and
then just go over the hard edges to soften them to my liking. The brush isn’t standard with photoshop
as far as I know, but you can easily build such a brush for the smudge tool yourself. Pick the smudge tool and open a regular round
soft brush. Then open the brush settings and set the spacing
to 25% , scatter to 29%, countjitter to 46%, activate transfer and you are done. 10. Layer Blending Styles
Last but not least let’s take a quick look at some of the blending styles for layers
that are worth checking out. Multiply is great when you scanned your traditional
lineart and want to start coloring. Just put your line art on top and set it on
multiply to make the white paper transparent Screen is very helpful to create light effects. For example I took this photo of a sparkler
and set the layer to screen which makes all the black tones transparent. It’s like the negative version of multiply Overlay is best for textures. If you want to give your art a watercolor
look you can use textures and overlay them to add them to your painting Color is useful to change colors on individual
areas and play around with color schemes. Would the ring look better in silver? Create a layer set to “color” and draw
on the area with a grey tone to try it. Last but not least, here is some general advice
on your tools. A bonus tip if you will:
For digital art there are loads of options regarding both software and hardware. From normal drawing tablets to screen tablets,
to tablet computers there is a variety of brands, qualities and prices you can choose
from. I have noticed that a lot of beginning artists
imagine that you can only create good art with a screen tablet but that’s a misconception. Back in 2005 I used a Graphire 4 and Photoshop
Elements that came with it. At that point I only occasionally did digital
art and I wasn’t sure whether I would be doing it much in the future. Not because it was so weird to not look at
the surface you are physically drawing on but simply because learning the program was
actually a lot harder. After using the screenless tablets for about
10 years I eventually figured that I wanted to upgrade to a Cintiq. My advice would be to let the tools grow with
you. Start with a tablet appropriate to your needs
and budget. You don’t want to spend a fortune on a tablet
when you do not see see yourself working with it for a long time. For beginners, I highly recommend starting
with a classic drawing tablet without a screen on it because they are far more affordable
and you won’t hate yourself too much if it starts gathering dust. With practice you will get used to looking
at your computer monitor. After all, you can always see where the cursor
is on screen. Some people actually use games like OSU to
practice their accuracy if they’re not drawing or painting something anyway. For digital art, I think understanding of
the software is often times more crucial for your workflow than whether your drawing tablet
has a screen built in or not. But what do you think. Do you have any experiences with drawing digitally
that you want to share? What was your favourite tip? Let me know in the comments 🙂 By the way, it’s not too late to act on
your New Year’s resolution! If you want to learn a new skill, try out
a new hobby or get deeper knowledge of something you already do then have a look at Skillshare. It’s an online learning community with thousands
of classes on drawing, painting, design and more. A few years ago I wanted to learn bookbinding
and using Skillshare I made one or actually several books by following some of
their classes. My editor Matt is also learning Illustrator
right now by following a class on Skillshare. How is that going for you? Well I’m not good at the whole art thing
but know I understand the software at least 😀 With a Premium Membership you will gain unlimited
access to high-quality classes made by experts in their fields and at $10 a month for an
annual subscription it is also more affordable than most learning platforms out there. But I’ve also got a special offer for you:
By following the link in the video description you can get two months for free. This offer is only available for the first
500 people who sign up using that link so be quick. Alright, if you found these tips helpful please
give this video a like and subscribe for more. Thank you very much for watching and I see
you next time.

REVIEW: Casey Neistat’s Camera Setup for Vlogging

REVIEW: Casey Neistat’s Camera Setup for Vlogging


Casey Neistat is
a YouTube vlogger that has been gaining
a lot of popularity lately because of his great
cinematography skills. And a lot of people
are wondering what type of camera
setup is he using to make his videos look so good. Well I’ve looked into it. And I’m going to do a
review of his setup. Plus suggest some of
my own modifications and my own little tweaks to it. So, put on my
glasses like Casey. Here we go. [MUSIC PLAYING] Hey guys! My name is Tim Schmoyer. And it’s Wednesday, which means
it’s time to give you guys some unique tips ideas,
suggestions, advice– like we do every week
here at Video Creators– to help you grow your YouTube
channels and your audiences. So the first thing
we’re going to do is run through the whole
camera setup– the gear– and then let’s dig into
some of the specifics about the things you
need to know about how to best use this setup. The camera body that
he uses is a Canon 70D. And the reason why
he chose this one is because it has autofocus
features built in, which are really
nice for getting a good crisp, clear shot. So autofocusing here. The lens that he’s using is the
Canon EF-S 10 to 22 millimeter. Also, the microphone at the top
is called a RODE VideoMic GO. And this is not the
one that he uses. He uses one a little bit
more similar to this one because this is battery-powered. And it gets a little
bit better audio. And you can boost
the signal that it’s sending into the camera. And you can cut
wind and stuff too. But the problem I was having
when I was using this mic is that quite frequently, I
would forget to turn it on. Or rather, I’d
turn it on and I’d have to carry around
the nine-volt battery it uses and then they would die
on me, or something like that. And so I would get these
shots when I was vlogging. I’ve been vlogging with this
camera actually for a few weeks now over at our family’s
vlogging channel. So that’s what I’m
basing all this on. And I would find that
I would just forget to turn this microphone on. So this one isn’t
battery-powered and there’s no on or off switch. It just plugs right into the
microphone port on the camera. And I love it so much better
because the sound quality is still very good. So very directional–
it picks up what’s in front of the camera,
in front of the microphone. And it eliminates a lot
of the background noise– which is awesome. But I don’t have to worry
about another battery and forgetting to turn it on
and then having no audio at all. And then this is
the JOBY tripod. And you can get it
in different sizes. This is the one for mobile. He has a bigger one than this. And it’s nice because these
legs are extremely flexible. You can wrap it around stuff. It makes it very portable. If you just want to get a
quick time-lapse like he does, you can just set the
legs out and set it down. Or you can do what he does
and that’s put them like this. And this gives it kind
of like a selfie stick. It’s very adjustable,
very sturdy. I love this JOBY tripod. And this is how he uses it. Keeps his arm out
of the shot too, rather than holding
it up like this and then having
this in the shot. By the way guys, the
links to all of this stuff is in the description below
this video here on YouTube. I highly recommend you pick
up your gear at B&H Photo. That’s where I get
all of my stuff. Mostly because they are
super, high professional. If you have any questions at
all, you can just call them. They’ll help you decide what you
really need for your project. And their prices are
either the lowest or they are the exact same
price as the lowest price that I can find anywhere on the
internet, including Amazon, or any other place like that. As far as a couple of settings
on the camera that I have found worked best for vlogging–
This is a touch screen. So that is nice. So you could have
this focus one. I found that the
multipoint one tends to keep the most amount
of things in focus while I’m shifting around. If I just want to
focus just on my face and I know my face
is going to be in the middle the whole
time, without moving, I’ll switch it to
that one sometimes. Most of the time, I use a
FlexiZone-Multi subject one there. As far as the audio is
concerned, if you go into here, I found just leaving it at
auto with this microphone works really well. As you can see, even though I’m
standing behind it right now, it’s still picking up
exactly at the right levels just because there’s no
other sound right now. But it does a fairly good job. Sometimes it will peek
into red even on auto. But I haven’t found it to be
enough to switch it to manual. You don’t want to disable
your audio, obviously. Also really important is if
you have the autofocus method on the tracking one. Remember we went through
these just a second. But if you have it on tracking–
if you want to have it automatically– you
can enable this. It will automatically
keep focusing on the faces that it detects– which it
actually does a really good job at keeping the faces. But as it says, “Using
an external microphone will reduce the amount of
lens noise that is recorded.” And I have found that even
with the external lens on top with the road, it
still picks it up. So if I switch back to this,
you can turn it on and off just by tapping this
while you’re recording, which makes it kind of nice. So you can use it when you want. But I have decided not to use
that because it does get to be a little bit too much noise. So I just keep this disabled. And I just keep
this on FlexiZone. The cool part about
using the FlexiZone though is that if you hold
and you hit this button right here– this AF focus on–
while you’re doing it, you can hold it while
you’re recording. And it doesn’t
give enough noise. See how it’s focusing in
these spots right here, now. So if I was to put my hand
right here and then pull this– see how it’ll all focus
over here on my hand. You couldn’t hear
it, but I could hear the lens make this noise. And the other thing
about this lens, you can see how wide it is
when you zoom out on this one. So you can see how
much of the room this lens is actually
picking up– this 10 to 22 millimeter– that’s on this one. So this is at 10. And if I was to zoom in,
it gives you just enough. You can go in about that far. That’s at 22 millimeters now. And I like it because I
have found for vlogging, wide is really good. And this is a crop
sensor, which means it zoomed in a little bit
more than you normally would have on a full sensor one. But it’s still really good. Just enough range where you
could zoom in, focus the eye on something that you
want to draw attention to, but then zoom back
and then have just yourself in the whole room. And you have lots of
empty space around you to pick up a lot
of the environment. Another thing to
consider with this is that it does weigh
maybe four pounds or so– which doesn’t
sound like a lot. But if you’re
holding it out trying to talk to it for
any period of time, it does start to
get pretty heavy. And the other
comment I would make is that vlogging with
this– although you have a lot of flexibility,
you get great sound quality, great image– you really
do you need to know how to use a DSLR camera. It’s not something
you can just pick up like a point-and-shoot,
or a GoPro, or your phone, or something like that. I’m not Casey. I can’t wear those
when I’m on video. So you do need to know
how to actually use a camera– a lot of
manual settings– in order to know how to use
it to its full potential when you’re vlogging with it. If you want to see
the vlogs that I’ve shot on this camera, and this
lens, and this microphone– to hear how it all sounds
and see a little bit more about it– I’ll put
a link to a playlist in the description
of this video that will contain all
the vlogs that I’ve shot using this exact setup. So you can get a
little bit more idea what it looks and sounds like. So while I do like
vlogging on the GoPro HERO4 Black– which is what
I’ve been using– because you can do 2K, 4K. It’s got time-lapsed
stuff built in. I can mount it anywhere. It’s much less inconspicuous. The audio on here– a problem. I did a full review on
vlogging with this one which I’ll make up around here. There are some problems with it. This definitely overcomes
almost all those problems. But it has other
problems of its own. It’s big. It’s far more
expensive than a GoPro. And you can’t just
throw it in your bag when you’re traveling
like you can with a GoPro. If you’ve been vlogging
with a rig like this, I’d love to hear from you
in the comments below. What you’ve learned, works best,
and what doesn’t, and any tips. Share those down there. And I will definitely
look forward to learning from you guys. And the rest of you
who are thinking about vlogging with
this, read the tips other people are saying
and other recommendations that you guys have
found work really well for your vlogging setup. And if this is your
first time here, I’d love to have you subscribe. Every week, we give you
guys YouTube tips just to help you with your YouTube
channels, grow your audience, and sometimes give you equipment
reviews like this, as well. So thanks for hanging out. And I will see you guys again
tomorrow for some YouTube Q&A. See you then. Bye.