How To Make The 3D Pop-Out Photo Effect In Photoshop – Out of Bounds Effect

How To Make The 3D Pop-Out Photo Effect In Photoshop – Out of Bounds Effect


How To Make The 3D Pop-Out Photo Effect In
Photoshop Welcome back to another very exciting tutorial
here at the PhotoshopTrainingChannel.com. My name is Jesus Ramirez and you can find
me on Instagram @JRfromPTC. In this video, I’m going to show you how to
create the 3D Pop-out Photo Effect in Photoshop. If you want to follow along, you can download
the watermarked previous or license the full resolution files from Adobe Stock. You can
find the links to these images right below this video in the description. We’re going to start out with these two layers,
the Photo frame background and snowboarder. I have them on two separate layers, of course.
And what we want to do is we’re going to isolate this black area here. We can, of course, create
a selection around the black area to isolate it, but I like working with vectors better
because they give you smaller file sizes and they’re easier to edit. So we’re going to
create a vector around the frame. So I’m going to press Z on the keyboard. I’m holding the
Z key. I’m not letting go of it, and I’m going to Zoom In to the corner here and release
the Z key, it will bring me back to the Pen Tool, which I had selected. Make sure that
you have Shape on the Options Panel on this drop down. Click on one corner then click
on the next, hold the space bar, pan down. Click on the bottom right corner and then
click on the bottom left corner. I’m going to hold the space bar, again, click and drag
to pan up, and complete that path. Now, the color and the shape doesn’t really
matter, so I’m just going to make it red, just so that you can see it. There it is–red.
What I’m going to do now is enable the layer of the snowboarder. I’m going to click and
drag her up to the top of the layers panel, and I’m also going to double tap here on the
Zoom Tool, just so we can see the image at 100%. And, actually, now that I’m looking
at it at 100%, I’m actually going to right-click on it and choose Fit on Screen so that I can
see the entire composition. Then I’m going to press Ctrl J, Command J on the Mac, to
duplicate. So now I have two copies. I’m going to disable the one on the top by clicking
on this I icon and the one in the bottom here, I’m going to clip to the shape below it. So,
with that layer selected, I’m going to press Ctrl Alt G, Command Option G on the Mac. Then,
I’m going to enable the layer right above that and I’m just going to make a selection
around the snowboarder. So I’m going to click on the Quick Selection
Tool and I’m simply going to click and drag around her. Now you don’t have to be very
precise at this moment. You can just click and drag, and we’ll worry about the details
later. So we’re just going to select her as quickly as we can. So I’m just clicking and
dragging, and notice that my selection is not very accurate. You shouldn’t spend too
much time at this moment. If you select an area like this part here that is obviously
not going to be a part of the selection, I’m going to hold Alt, Option on the Mac, click
and drag just to refine that selection just a little bit more. You know that I have the selection active
around the snowboarder. I’m going to select that top layer and click on the Layer Mask
icon to create a mask around the snowboarder. So what I’m going to do now is click on this
top layer, hold shift and click on the layer below it, so they’re both selected, and I’m
going to click on this chain link icon here to link those two layers. What that allows
you to do is when you move one of those layers with the Move Tool, it moves both, and they
can be in different groups and they can be separated. So that allows us to keep those
two layers together. What I’m going to do now is press Ctrl T,
Command T, to Transform, to scale this and adjust it accordingly. If you can’t see the
corner handles that you want to click and drag on, you can press Ctrl 0 (zero), that’s
Command 0 on the Mac, for the bird’s-eye view that allows you to see all four corner handles.
Then, I’m going to click and drag on this one here to scale it down by holding Shift
Alt, That’s Shift Option on the Mac. Now, at this point, we can go back and adjust the
layer mask if we need to, so I’m going to Zoom In just so we could see the areas that
we need to work on. So we need to work on this area, and then, the blue outline around
her body. So we can adjust that by clicking on the layer mask in the Properties Panel.
You can click on Mask Edge. If you don’t see the Properties Panel, you can go into Window,
Properties, click on Mask Edge, and then, maybe shift the Edge with a negative value
and see how that has adjusted so. And keep adjusting it and making sure that that line
is gone, but we don’t lose any detail that we want to keep. Also, with this brush selected, I can click
and drag here on the hair, and hopefully we’ll get a better selection. I didn’t do that good
of a job here, so I’m just going to leave it like this for now and I can come back with
the brush tool and fix that in a moment. So I’m going to press OK, click on the Brush
Tool, paint with white in areas that I want to keep, so I’m just going to paint with the
white in these areas here, and I know I’m selecting some of the sky, but that’s okay.
I’m going to get rid of that by pressing X in the keyboard, which swaps the foreground
and background color. And with black, I’m going to paint on that layer mask to get rid
of the sky here, and I’m not going to take the time to do so now. I will do that after
the tutorial and you can see the final image, but I’m just going to go around the entire
image and just make sure that everything is masked out accordingly. And in most of these
areas, everything seems to be okay. I know we got to work on this area here, and like
I said, I’ll do that after I’m done with the tutorial and you can see my final result.
But for now, we’ll just leave it as is. I’m going to press Z on the keyboard, right click
and choose Fit to Screen. And what we’re going to work on now is extra
elements that are going to help our composite look much more realistic and much more interesting.
So, from the Adobe Stock Library, I downloaded two elements that we’re going to use. We’re
going to use this shovel with the snow, so let me just double click on that to open that
up. And, by the way, the links to these files are on the description. You have to download
them from Adobe Stock. They’re not free, but you can use a watermarked preview to practice
on. So I would recommend you doing that, just so that you can have a way to practice and
learn. So, the first thing I got to do is get rid of the shovel. So I’m going to click
on the Lasso Tool and I’m going to make a selection around the shovel, and as you can
see, it’s not very accurate. That’s okay. Then I can hold Shift and Backspace or you
can go into Edit, Fill to bring up the Fill Menu. Under Contents, choose Content Aware
and press OK. And Photoshop will Fill In those pixels and make the shovel disappear. I’m
going to press Ctrl D, Command D on the Mac, to Deselect, and this is what we’re going
to work with. The first thing that we need to do is mask out the snow from the ground. So I’m going to go into the Channels panel
and I’m going to look for the channel that’s got the most contrastóin this case, the blue
channel. I’m going to click and drag on the blue channel and drop it here in the new channel
icon to duplicate it. Now with the duplicate channel, I can start making adjustments to
it. The first thing I’m going to do is fill with white the areas I want to keep for sure,
so with the Lasso Tool selected, I’m just going to click and drag and make a very rough
selection on the areas for sure I want to keep, which is all this top part here. Now
that I have a selection active, I can fill with white. White is currently my foreground
color. To fill with the foreground color, you can hold Alt and Backspace, Option Backspace
on the Mac; then Ctrl D, Command D on the Mac, to Deselect. Now we got to work on this bottom part. There’s
a feature in Photoshop called Apply Image. If we go into Image, Apply Image, what Apply
Image allows you to do is to take an image and apply it onto itself using a Blend Mode.
In this case, we’re taking the blue copy, apply in the Screen Blend Mode into itself,
so notice what happens here on the snow on the edge. It essentially turns white, which
is what we want. You could, of course, apply a Multiply Blend Mode and it will give you
a different result. In this case, I think I’m going to go with Screen, and then, I’ll
just work on the edges in the next step. So I’m going to press OK and what I’m going to
do now is go into Image, Adjustment Levels, and bring the levels to the rightóthe dark
values to the right. So we have more contrast between the snow and the ground. And remember,
we’re going to be making this selection; anything that is white in the screen will be selected.
Anything that is black will be deselected. So I’m going to drag this one over to the
left a little bit. I’m looking at the edges here and, maybe, drag this one to the left
as well, and press OK. Now, what I’m going to do now is click on the Brush Tool, select
black as my foreground color so I can paint with black. I’m going to increase the size
of my brush by clicking on the right bracket key on the keyboard and I’m just going to
paint with black. And, again, you don’t have to be very accurate. As long as you get close
enough, you should be good. And I’m just painting these pixels away which represent the floor.
And, once again, I’m going to go into Image, Adjustment, Levels, and darken up some of
the darker pixels and brighten up the midtones a little bit, and press OK. So this selection
looks like it would work, so I’m going to press Ctrl, Command on the Mac, click on the
blue copy icon to make a selection around it. Go back into the Layers Panel and the
Background Layer, which is the only layer that we have on this document. I’m going to click on the New Layer Mask icon
and notice now that the floor is no longer there. Now, it’s not a perfect selection but
it’s going to work because the color of the floor and the color of the table are very
similar colors and I think we’re going to be able to get away with it. So what I’m going
to do is I’m just going to simply click on the layer, select the Move Tool, click and
drag the layer over onto the other file by hovering over the tab, and then, coming down
and releasing, and there’s our file. It’s a really big layer. So we’re going to need
to scale it down; Ctrl T, Command T on the Mac, to Transform. We can’t see the corner
handles, so I’m going to press Ctrl 0 (zero), Command 0 on the Mac, there’s the corner handles,
and now, I’m going to adjust them accordingly. I’m holding Shift as I’m clicking on these
corner handles to keep the file constrained. The angle is not really matching my scene,
so I’m going to right click on it and choose Flip Horizontal, and from here, I can match
the scene a little better. I can even distort it if I want to, maybe right click on it and
choose Distort, just to get a better perspective of the scene that we’re working with, maybe
something like this, and press Enter when you’re done. Now that we have this file in
place, I’m going to press Z on the keyboard, right click, Fit to Screen, then I’m going
to press V on the keyboard to get the Move Tool and, maybe, I can move it around if I
need to, and I’m going to click on the New Group icon to create a new group. I’m going
to click and drag this snow layer in there. I’m going to collapse it and now it’s in that
group. Next I’m going to hold Alt, Option on the
Mac, and click on the Layer Mask icon to create a black layer mask which hides everything.
Then, with the Brush Tool, I can paint with white on this layer mask to start revealing
some of that snow. So I’m going to use the bracket keys on the keyboard as I work to
increase and decrease the size of my brush. So I’m just painting with white. Just bring
in some of that snow. And if you make a mistake, you can press X on the keyboard to paint with
black and, maybe, shape the snow a little bit better, so, maybe something like that.
What we’re going to do now is work with different elements, so I’m going to open up the Libraries
Panel and I’m going to open up this file here, which is these snow elements that were also
downloaded from Adobe Stock. By the way, if you don’t have Photoshop CC, you won’t have
the Libraries Panel, but you can still download the watermarked previews onto your desktop
and bring them into Photoshop as you would any other image. So you can still work with
the previews. So, what I’m going to do now is just select
one of these elements and bring it over to the file that I’m working with. So I’m going
to click on the Lasso Tool and I’m going to select this element first. So I’m going to
select it, go to Edit and Copy, or you can press Ctrl C. I’m going to deselect that element,
Ctrl D, Command D on the Mac, go back into the file that we’re working with and I’m going
to paste it here, Ctrl V, Command V on the Mac, and there it is. As you can see, it’s
a high resolution file, which is good. I’m going to change the Blend Mode to Screen,
so the black pixels disappear and we only keep the bright pixels, in this case, the
snow. Then, I’m going to press Ctrl T, Command T to Transform, Ctrl 0 (zero), Command 0 for
bird’s eye view, and I’m going to scale this element down. I’m going to press Ctrl 0, Command
0 again to zoom back in, and I’m just going to rotate it and make it fit accordingly. Now, in this case, I’m going to flip it horizontally.
So right click on it, flip horizontally, and keep rotating it, so maybe something, something
like this. And I can, you know, scale it more if I need to, or rotate it more if I need
to. So whatever distortions I need to do for it to work, so, maybe something like that.
So I just press Enter to accept that transformation, and I’m going to use one more element. I’m
going to use this one right down here. Again, Ctrl C to copy and paste that in here. Change
the Blend Mode to Screen, Ctrl T to Transform, that’s Command T on the Mac; Ctrl 0 (zero),
Command 0 on the Mac, and scale this one in as well, and I’m going to zoom in and rotate
this one into position, maybe right about here or so. But I want this one to be in the
back, so I’m going to click and drag this one and place it way back here. And I’m going
to press V to select the Move Tool and I’m going to move it around just to fit it into
position, so maybe something like this. And, actually, I just realized that I made
a mistake. Notice how this element gets cut off right in this area? That’s because this
element needs to be right here. It needs to be in-between the layer that’s popping out
the subject and the layer that is clipped to the vector, so right in-between those two.
So, now the snow follows through into the frame. Now the last thing that we’re going
to do is we’re going to work with shadows. So, first, with the snow here on the table,
it needs a shadow. So I’m going to open up this group, double click on the snow layer
here and click on Drop Shadow. Notice the little drop shadow there. You can use the
settings that I have here if you like. Notice that I’m not using black. I’m using the dark
burgundy color, which is similar to that color you see right there, right under the frame,
and just brought the Intensity down to about 25% using Multiply, and notice the light is
coming from the right. The light on her face is coming from the right and so is the light
hitting the frame. So you sort of want to match that with the shadows, so the shadows
will be on the left side, sort of like here, behind the frame. So this is what this is
showing. So if I were to bring it up to 100%, this
is what that looks like. Obviously that’s too much, so leave it at about 25% or so.
And what I’m going to do now is right above this snow element here, I’m going to create
a new layer and I’m just going to paint with this color here under the board, so you can
click on the Eyedropper Tool. Select that color and maybe make it a little bit darker
because it’s too light, something like that, and just continue that shadow that’s coming
off the board. And, actually, let me drag this layer up on top of the group and just
continue painting that shadow that’s coming off the board, so maybe something like this.
And then, change the Blend Mode to Multiply, and bring that shadow way down, so, maybe,
something like that. Now, the only difference between the final image that you saw in the
beginning and this one is that with the final image, I took a little more time working with
the mask a little more time placing the elements, and moving things around so they fit a little
bit better. But these are the techniques that I use to create this effect. If you decide to create an image using tutorial
or any of my tutorials, then upload it to Instagram with the hashtag #PTCvids. Every
so often, I do a search for that hashtag, and if I find your image, I’ll leave a comment. And that’s it for this tutorial. I hope that
you enjoyed it and that you learned something new. If you have any comments or questions,
leave them down below. If you enjoyed the tutorial, don’t forget to click that Like
button and share this video with a friend. If you haven’t already, subscribe to the Photoshop
Training Channel now. Thank you for watching and I’ll talk to you again soon.

Photoshop Tutorial: How to Make a Personalized,  3D Pop Out Photo Effect!

Photoshop Tutorial: How to Make a Personalized, 3D Pop Out Photo Effect!


Hi. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV.
I’m going to you show you how to make your color photos more engaging, fun and personal.
You can apply these techniques to virtually any photo. Open a color image you’d like to
use. I downloaded this one from Shutterstock.com. The first step is to convert it into a Smart
Object, so we can make adjustments to it non-destructively. It’ll also allow us to replace the photo with
a different one without having to redo all the effects. To do this, click the icon at
the upper, right of the Layers panel and click “Convert to Smart Object”. Make a copy of it by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + J. Click off the eyeball next to the copy to hide the layer and click the thumbnail of the bottom layer to make it active. Go to Filter and Filter
Gallery. Open the Texture folder and click “Grain”. Make the Intensity: 20, the Contrast:
50 and the Grain Type: Clumped. Then, click OK. Go back to Filter and Lens Correction. Click the Custom tab and drag the Vignette Amount all the way to the left. Then, click OK. Click the Adjustment layer icon and click Hue/Saturation. Drag the Saturation all the
way to the left to remove all the color. We want to make new layer below the adjustment
layer. To do this, Ctrl-click or Cmd-click on the New Layer icon. Open your Rectangular Marquee Tool and drag a rectangle over the general area you’d like to revert back to color. Go to Edit and Stroke. I’ll make the Stroke: 30 pixels, however, depending on the
resolution of your photo, you may want to use a different amount. Make the Location:
Inside and click the color box. Pick white. Then, click OK on both windows. To deselect it, press Ctrl or Cmd + D. To angle your frame, open the Transform Tool by pressing Ctrl or
Cmd + T. Go to a corner and when you see a curved, double-arrow, rotate it to angle you
like. To reposition it over the area, go inside the Transform and drag the frame. Then, press Enter or Return. Ctrl-click or Cmd-click on the thumbnail of the frame to make a selection of its shape. Press “Q” to make it into a quick mask. Open your Paint Bucket Tool. Make sure your foreground color is white and “Contiguous” is checked. Click outside the frame to delete
the quickmask, leaving just the quick mask inside of the frame intact. Press “Q” again
to revert it back into a selection. Invert the selection by pressing Ctrl or Cmd + Shift + I. Make the top layer active. Keep in mind, the photo in this layer is in color because
it doesn’t have an adjustment layer above it that desaturates its color. Click the Layer Mask icon to make a layer mask of the selection next to it. Make the layer visible. Ctrl-click or Cmd-click on the thumbnail of the frame layer again to make a selection of its shape. Press “Q” to make it into a quick mask and click the Paint Bucket Tool inside the frame
to delete the quick mask. Press “Q” to revert into a selection. Make the frame layer active,
fill the selection with white and deselect it. Because we filled the selection with white,
this layer is no longer a frame; it’s a white box. Double-click on it to open its Layer
Style window. Click Drop Shadow. Make the opacity: 40% and uncheck Global Light. Make the Angle: 138 degrees, the Distance: 50 pixels and the Size: 20 pixels. Then, click OK. Next, we’ll enlarge the color photo. To do this, Shift-click on the top layer to highlight
the top 3 layers and open your Transform Tool. Zoom out by pressing Ctrl or Cmd and the minus
sign on your keyboard. Go to a corner and when you see a diagonal, double-arrow, press
and hold Alt or Option + Shift and drag it out to a size you like. Then, reposition it and press Enter or Return. To fit it back onto your canvas, press Ctrl or Cmd +0. We’re ready to add text. Open your Horizontal Type Tool. Choose a font. I using a handwritten-style
font called, “MT Matto Script Normal”. If you’d like to use it, as well, I provided
its link in the video description or project files. I’ll make the size 70 points, Sharp
and Left Alignment. Click the color box and click a color on your photo that you think
would work well for your text. You can always change it later. Then, click OK. Click on your document and type your text. Double-click on an empty area of your text layer to open the Layer Style window. Click “Outer Glow” and change the Blend Mode to Normal. Click
the color box and pick black or white or a grey tone that will make your text pop more
depending on the background behind the text. For this example, I’ll pick black and click OK. Make the Size 50 pixels and click OK. Open your Transform Tool to rotate, position
and resize it. Then, press Enter or Return. This is Marty from Blue Lightning TV. Thanks for watching!

(Blender TUTORIAL) How to create 3D textures, quick and easy realistic look

(Blender TUTORIAL) How to create 3D textures, quick and easy realistic look


hello and welcome to digital exposure TV
today I’m going to show you how to do 3d textures in blender yeah yeah ok so actually saw in the opening video
there i’m going to show you how to do a three dimensional texturing and blender
now today I’m going to do in blender render because there’s so many tutorials
of how to do it in Cycles render I thought not everybody uses cycles or not
everybody likes cycles especially if they have a lot of problem getting a lot
of problems getting rid of all the tiny little white dots ok so we’ve opened up a new project here
i’m going to delete this Q and we’re going to add a plane in there in a
moment but first before we do anything else we’re going to open up crazy bump so if
you haven’t downloaded crazy bump which i think if you just Google crazy bump it
comes up at like crazy but . or google.com and this is what’s going to
create our texture maps to create the texture now once it’s open it will open up in a
box like this on the top right here and see this all symbol of a hammer and a
wrench that’s for the settings if you click on
that just make sure that normal map y axis is selected to up because
otherwise blend the house trouble trying to read the files ok so we go down to the bottom left this
box office is open now we don’t need to bother with any of these files because
they’re for the maps that we haven’t actually created yet we just need to go
to open photograph from file so we click on that and we use our rock texture
which is what i’m going to be showing you today and ok it’s thinking about it there we go now
gives you two different options one of them is inverted and it basically shows
you the depth of the image so we want the one on the right here
because it’s extruding the sort of bulbs of the rock ok and now i will show you this preview
now for something like what we’re going to do today which is a very flat based
texture we’re going to click instead of ball to
box so we got a flat i’ll click there to stop that from moving we got a flat texture there and that box is just on the bottom right
hand corner here click on it and it you can either have a ball column or box and if we go to options on
the left here you can show the different maps or there’s the one with the actual
picture on top of it will take the picture off and then we can see the
colored light can take that off and so on and so forth ok so here on the right-hand side we’ve
got various different tabs we’ve got the normals tab and the normals is basically
is probably image here which affects how light hits the texture and how things
interact with the texture in 3d world then you’ve got a displacement which is
what we’re going to use today which is the map that raises and lowers certain
parts of the text based on the image so you’ve got a lump in the image will
make a lump in the texture that’s the most important one and you’ve
got occlusion which is all the dark spots that tells the computer to dip in
the dark areas specularity which tells the computer basically how much light
reflects off it so if you can look over here on the previous quite shiny if i go
to brightness and turn it down there’s less light shining off it ok and you don’t want too much because
obviously it’s supposed to be a rock so that’s about right then you gotta diffuse map which is
basically original color photo but we’re going to use the diffuse map as opposed
to the original color photo because it matches are absolutely spot-on perfect
to the displacement the normals and the other maps so you can fiddle around with
the settings here you got intensity and you’ve got all
sorts of things like fine detail turn that right up and but but today we’re
going to use is the displacement map and the diffuse map so if i click on the displacement and
turn the depth really high up you’ll see it looks a lot more a lot
more 3d now I can move the light around there and if I just move it around you can see
it’s a lot more three dimensional change the intensity on the normal map the
normal maps always on the top here just despite which tab you click on and then
on it’s on it’s own normals ok so we want this to look like a rock so let’s get the image up so we get the
sort of final look in thing there and that looks a bit too rounded to me I
have to say so let’s open up the displacement turn the depth down a
little bit go to normals and all these other maps
do a fact the displacement even though we’re only using the
displacement so you still can fine-tune some of these things turn that down a
bit that’s a little bit too much thing there we go that’s folks that’s ok isn’t
it it’s not amazing but this is just a tutorial ok so now we want to save these maps so
i clicked on the displacement tab click on save save displacement to file i’ll
give you a location I’ve got desktop and then it gives you a name you can name it
whatever you like but by default it will pick the original name of the picture
and then a disparate for this place on the end of it which is what we’re going
to use and then you’ve got a diffuse the few sorry click on save and save again and if
you’re doing this on windows when you click say that gives you the option of
saving all the maps in one go now the diffuse which is your original
picture that map is called color whenever you using it so there we go i
think we just saved it so we quit crazy bump now go back into blender we now have our two maps that we’re
going to use now to start off we want to make a plane now
you all can obviously use your texture on the top of anything really you could be a person or a wall or
anything you like in in your scene but we’re going to do now is a helpful
little tip when you want to import a photograph or
a texture and you want it to be the exact same size and shape you can use
this out on so we go to file user preferences click on add ons type in
image into the search there we go and there’s two options the
one option you want is import export and it says import files as planes so instead of importing in having a
plane and then importing the picture on top of it we’re actually importing the picture and
it creates a plane for the right size so we got to add match instead of plain we
go to images and planes and then it gives us where we which image would like
to use so we’re going to use rock texture seven
color map now to see the maps if you see this little icon here with four squares
that she give you a preview of what you’re clicking on so i’ll go to import
images as planes and now that if i go to text mode there you go you can see a texture but
it’s completely flat which is pretty kind of dull and nasty looking in any
production really so go back to solid and we have to make
sure that this is click click on will press tab and that opens up our edit
menu and now we need to press W and add a sub divide which is at the top of the
menu there and once we subdivide it only goes into quarters so if you come over to number of cuts in
this corner here and you type in how many subdivisions we want i’m going to
pick 30 and enter and then what that does is
it separated into little tiny sections if you can see they’re like a grid and
what the effect of that is is when you address subdivision surface modifier so
that you can basically change the terrain of the plane it won’t just completely turn it into a
squished ball of play doh it will actually just around the edges
off instead because it’s preventing it from squashing at that ok so press tab to tab out of that and
now we’re going to go to this that all wrench thing over here and we’re gonna
add a subdivision surface modifier and then we’ll crank that up to five you can probably do it four or higher or
lower depending on what ram you’ve got and then we want to add a displacement
modifier there we go and now we’re going to go to
the material now we’ve already got our material with the image on it so what we need to do is click + + add
another material click new so you got blank material and
we’re going to click on texture now this text will be the texture for
that second material to add new and it by default gives you this clouds so if we click on that bar there where
it says clouds and go to image or movie and this is where we’re going to add our
displacement modifier so we go into desktop and their says
discipline and if i go to the preview again we can see it’s the black and
white one there the displacement modifier and I open that up so then we’ve got that texture in there
now but we haven’t used it yet so if we go back over to this little
wrench and we come up in the displacement modifier and we click on
the little texture pain there and now we can text and click on our text you can
see it’s the black and white well now you can name it whatever you like we
just got his texture what will happen is it will go mental
there you go see it has gone mental so under direction you click z don’t
worry about the mental illness for now and then and texture coordinates click UV now this is put it exactly how
it should line up with the image so then we go to strength and one is
pretty damn high so we can put 0.07 that’s just the way I want to do it it
might be a bit too high note that looks pretty much basically now you’ve got the
the three-dimensional texture of the image that you put onto this plane so you can see there that’s the 3d
version of and if I just click on the texture viewer it’s time to think about it they do and
I ask that there’s our image laid out on top of the
three-dimensional version of it ok so go back to solid so it doesn’t
take up too much space and if you like you can add smooth shading and all round
off a bit more personally i like the flat shading because it looks less
covered in light and it also shows all the sharp little edges up a bit more
obviously don’t need to do that so then if we go back to materials and
we click on our well this is our basically our 3d material turn the
specularity down it won’t be as shiny and perhaps we need to go over to the
other texture and do it there it will be a shiny and the same with the
diffuse turn down they go it just doesn’t look so plasticky and round then ok so press 0 to go into a camera view
and then i’m going to go to my render settings which is this little camera
picture there and I’m going to turn up the percentage 200 so it’s full quality
and I’ve got it set to 1920 x 1080 which is full HD frames and now i’m going to
click on PNG and i’m just going to render it just to see what it looks like and there we go we have a finished three
dimensional text instead of just a flat plane with an image on it look at that ok so now what we want to do is just
have a look around it in a three-dimensional area and you can see
all of the little contours there and they all correspond to the contours in
the image and there you go that’s the tutorial that’s how you make a three
dimensional plane texture hopefully this has been helpful to you
if it has please subscribe so you can see more please click that thumbs-up
sign so that has no there has helped you out and thank you very much for watching
digital exposure TV yeah

Just One Image File, But Multiple Versions! How?


Today I’m going to share with you how you
can use the magic of Layer Comps to create different versions of the same document in
such a way that you can pull up any version anytime and in the document. Let me first demonstrate and then we will
learn how to do this. So this is a simple magazine cover template. Right, let’s say we want to add a photo to
it. All we need to do is to go to File and then
place linked. Simply locate the document that you want to
attach. In this case, I’m going to use a Man with
Camel and hit Place. All right, pretty good. Now, let’s just go ahead and adjust it. So I’m going to make it a little larger, and
it’s fine with me. Now here is the magic. Have a look at this. If we go to Properties right here, or if we
simply go to Window and then make sure Properties is checked, inside of that, have a look at
this drop down, if I just click on this one, look at the Layer Comps available. If I choose Original, this is going to show
me the original image. Isn’t that wonderful? If I just go ahead and choose the Silhouette
Version, just click on that and it loads that and simply Isolated Version. This has a transparent background, so I can
choose any color I want. Or maybe I want to place a different sky or
whatever I like, different design, different texts. And we even have one more version, which is
the Black & White Version. Isn’t that amazing? So how did we create all of this? To be able to access the different versions,
we need to create the versions using Layer Comps. Keep in mind that we inserted a document we
did not insert a JPEG image. So let’s just go ahead and open that document
and let me show you what exactly I had in that document. So here we are in our Finder or Explorer and
I’m just going to open this PSD separately – Man with Camel. As you can see, I have a ton of layers in
here. Now, let me show you something interesting. If I go to Window and then if I click on Layer
Comps, look at the different versions here – Original, Silhouette Version, Isolated Version. Now, wherever we are selecting all of these
versions, what’s happening is some of the layers are being hidden and some are becoming
visible. That’s just it. And that’s how you create these Layer Comps. So let me just go ahead and delete all of
this and let me take you through the entire document. All right, okay. Now, here we have a lot of layers, a ton of
layers, right. So at the very bottom, we have the original
one. On top of that, we simply created a black
and white Adjustment layer, added some Curves and added some vignetting and some grain. So this is the black and white version. So let’s say now I want something with the
background changed, a sunset version. So for that I masked it out here, this layer,
and put in a background. Now, since we put in a dark background, we
needed to make this darker as well. So if we just turn the Curves Adjustment layer
on, we’ve just made it absolutely dark. You can keep it a little light depending upon
your taste, I’m just going to make it absolutely dark. So, we have everything in here. So let’s say I want an original version. So, I’m going to turn everything off and just
keep the original on. Now, I’m going to go to Windows and then Layer
Comps. Now, inside of Layer Comps, we will click
on this ‘+’ button right there and just make sure everything is checked so that even the
visibility, position, in case you change any of these properties, they will stay with the
Layer Comp. So we just going to name it Original and hit
OK. We are keeping it simple and only controlling
the visibility. Hit OK. Now, let’s say we want a black and white version. So let’s turn on the layers, which will make
this black and white. All right. Now, let’s click on the ‘+’ button right there
and let’s name this Black and White. Now you can turn off all of these layers if
you wish to. Now, so let’s turn on the sunset sky and let’s
turn the masked one on. We have to turn on the Curves to make all
of this dark. Let’s click on ‘+’ again and let’s name this
Silhouette. All right. Now we have that. And we can create even one more version if
we wish to. So we have the Original, Black and White,
Silhouette and Isolated – one with the transparent background because we might need it. So let’s turn off the Curves, let’s turn off
the sunset sky. This is absolutely transparent and let’s just
name it probably Transparent. Perfect. Now, let’s create one more additional version
that we had not created before. So I’m just going to turn off everything. And maybe at the top, we will add a Color
Lookup table. Click on the Adjustment layer icon and then
choose Color Lookup. Probably we will choose something like FoggyNight
just to show you this. All right, let’s open up the Layer Comps by
clicking on this button right there or simply going to window and then make sure Layer Comps
is checked and then click on the ‘+’ and let’s name this Foggy Night. All right, hit OK. Now, let’s go ahead and save it. File – Save. It’s saved in the same location, it’s just
updated. Let’s go back to this document. You will see, it will update itself too. If I select Man with Camel in this document,
since this is linked, if I open up the Properties right here and if I choose Foggy Night, it’s
going to show me the Foggy Night which is already selected, the last saved version. Transparent version, we have the Black and
White version. See all of this updated. This is the blank template again. I wanted to show you one more important thing. Keep in mind that this will work with any
kind of smart object. Not only linked. Even if you just embed it, this will work. So if you go to File and then Place Embedded
and then choose Man with Camel and hit Place and if you adjust it, you will still have
access to all of these properties. With that layer selected, if you just open
up the Properties, you still can change the Layer Comp. Also, even if you just drag it and drop it. So, I’m going to go to my Finder right there,
Man with Camel, I’m just gonna drag it and drop it right there. And even then, if you just go to the Properties,
you will have access to everything. So, that’s how you can use Layer Comps to
create different versions of the same image and whenever you insert the image, you can
choose whatever version you like. I hope this video helped you. I will see you guys again in my next one. Till then stay tuned and make sure that you
keep creating.

Photoshop for Beginners in Urdu / Hindi | Course  | Working With Images | Lime Tech | Class 01

Photoshop for Beginners in Urdu / Hindi | Course | Working With Images | Lime Tech | Class 01


Music In the name of Allah, the Most merciful, the most beneficent. My name is “Abul Waheed” and you are watching “Lime Tech” Channel. I am working on photoshop for 10 years, And many people requested me to teach them Photoshop. So, I decided to make a course for all of you. therefore I prepared a course on photoshop,
in this(course) all things described basic level to advanced level in the simple method. After the completion of this course, you will be eligible for the job in any production house
and you can work online on any freelancing website. If some peoples of you thinking that after learning this course,
you can job in any production house then this course is definitely for you. you can watch and learn If some peoples of you thinking that after learning this course,
you can do freelancing then this course is definitely for you. you can watch and learn. and make your carier on freelancing platforms. If you thinking that photoshop is in trending, and you learn this course for this purpose
then please skip this video this course is not for you. However, if you wanted to edit your personal photo professionally then you see and learn this course
and edit your personal images professionally. If some peoples want to become a successful freelancer.
Then, I have good news for you. After completing the photoshop course,
I will prepare a course on freelancing, in which, I will tell you how to create an account,
build your profile,and how to get projects. Also, I will let you know the website i am working on,
what is my skill set, And how much I earning from?
I will show you with proof in details. Because I am doing freelancing for 8 years,
And I have great experience in freelancing, therefore I am thinking that I share my experience with you. so you can build your career in freelancing. If you are new to this channel then subscribe to our channel and press the bell icon to get latest video notifications. so let’s start our course’s first-class. Intro Music So, friends when we open photoshop, we can see this type of interface,
You will see “Create a document” option and below “Open Document ” option. If you didn’t create a document before, then you can click here and create a document.
And if you create it before then you can open it. So if you want to create a document, then you have to click on “new document” button or
you can go to file and click on a new document and create a document. To create a new document, click on “new document” we can see a window like this. there are so many presets built-in here. These are photo presets, these are different sizes of photos, And these preset of print, this for art and illustration.
In this, some web-related presets, if you design some website you can use it, for mobile applications, film, and video too. now we talk about the photo so we press on photo presets, there is some ready to use like 7×5 inch.
we select it, on the right side, here is a size mentioned width 7 inches height 5 inches.
you can go in pixels, cm, inches, and picas. And here you can set the value inches cm whatever. Below you can see the options for oriantation “portrait or landscape”.
when we click on portrait height is 7 inches and the width is 5 inches,
And if i click on landscape height and width will be changed. We will go with landscape. Along with this, you can see the art box of a checkbox.
we will explain it in the future videos an what is the benefit of it. Below You can see the resolution option if you design a web banner, header, slider anything then you fix 72 or 100 resolution. If you creating document for print media you can set it 300. In the drop-down, you can set a pixel per inch option. Below drop down you can see background colour mode. And the below option is background content,
in this option, you can see black and white and background default, you should set only default color.
we set the white background and create the document when we create we can see white background document on the screen. you can see document tab as “Untitled 1″ because we did not mention any name. therefore it is untitled 1. now we save it first, we go into ” file” and click on “save as”.
Click on your designation directory and give the name and save your required format like PSD, JPEG, PNG, we save as PSD. Because in PSD all the layers save and you can edit in future as you required. When we save our document, you can see document has been renamed. If we want to add an image then we go to “File” option and click on “Open” or use option “Place Embed”.
Click on file>Place Embed, and choose your image and place it. On the right side, you can see layers section you can see 2 layers
one of them is the background layer and the second is our embedded image. If we want to resize the image we press & hold “shift” key and drag from 1 corner and resize it.
If we didn’t press the “shift” button our image stretched and damaged its shape.
Press “Shift” button is necessary to resize the image if not perhaps our image loses its aspect ratio. After resizing we release the “Shift” button and place image anywhere as you want.
By pressing double click or click on the “Tick” option we can deselect the image selection. Now we embed one more image. If you want to move image upward or backward.
Simply go to the layer section and drag the layer and drop it under the other image. One more thing, right side on every layer is an “eye icon”.
By pressing the icon you can hide and visible any layer. Now we learn about how can I open a document.
We go to File>Open, Select an image and click “open” the image will open as a document. Now you can see two tabs on top. By pressing any tab you can switch the document. Now we open another image and you can see three tabs on top.
By pressing any tab you can switch the document.
First, Second, Third. Now you can see the first document we made there is a white background layer and two images layers.
And if we go to second document there is no white background layer.
Same with third document. it shows that the first tab document we create our self with white background and two images layer by layer.
Other two document do not have white background because we directly open image as a document. We can see three tabs now. If we want to close any document, you can see a cross sign.
Click on it our document will be closed. One more thing, When we close this document which contains three layers, a dialogue box will appear from photoshop,
which indicate us to save the document before closing it.
Why this box appears because we make 2 changes in this and haven’t saved it. If we press on “yes” document will saved,
And if we press “No” then the document will not be saved but will be closed. If we press the “Cancel” document remain open in Photoshop.
We press the “Cancel”. Now we can see 2nd tab has a cross sign but, If you notice that first document have a little star sign.
Star sign indicate us that our document is not saved. If we save it, you see star icon disappeared. Now we press the “close” button to close the document. If we make any changes on the image you will see little star icon appear again
because we make a change and not saved it. 2nd method of closing the document, go to “File” and click on “Close”. In this video, we learned about how to create a document, open, Save and close.
My Next video will be about the Interface of photoshop. How many tools in it and how it works. So let’s meet in our next video.
Allah Hafiz

Photoshop 3D Tutorial – Photo Realistic Picture Frame


Welcome to the Photoshop Training Channel.
Today, by popular demand, we have another Photoshop 3D tutorial. I’ve been getting a
lot of emails and Facebook messages, asking me to do more 3D tutorials. So, today, we’ll
look into creating this picture frame, completely in 3D, and incorporating it into this stock
image of a living room table. We’ll start out with this image I took while
at dinner a few weeks back. Then, we’ll add a white border, which will become the frame.
We’ll turn this image into a 3D object, and then, we’ll change the Extrusion Depth and
add a Bevel to the image. Using contours, we’ll add the appropriate shape to the picture
frame, and then, using materials, we can apply the appropriate colors. We’ll complete the
effect by placing the picture frame within the background image, and apply the appropriate
lighting and reflections to make it as realistic as possible. Before we get started, however,
I want to make sure that you’re all seeing what I’m seeing. So, go into Window, Work
Space, and make sure 3D is checked, and click on Reset 3D to reset all your panels so that
they’re aligned in this fashion, here. Okay, let’s get started. The first thing I’m
going to do is open up my image. So I’m going to go into File, Open, and open this image
titled “picture.” And this is a picture I took with my cellphone in San Francisco, right
outside of a restaurant called Cliphouse in San Francisco, California. It’s a really nice
restaurant with a great view and I did not Photoshop it. It was just a beautiful sunset,
and I decided to take a picture. So what we’re going to do with this picture is create a
frame around it in 3D and we’re going to place it into a scene so it looks like a picture
frame laying on a table. So the first step is to create the actual frame. So, to do that,
I’m going to extend my canvass 100 pixels in each direction. To do that, I’m going to
go into Image, Canvass Size, and my Width is 1097 and my Height is 617. Now, I can do
the math and I can just add 200 pixels to 1097, which will be 1297, and add 200 pixels
to 617, which will be 817. But there’s an easier way to do this. You don’t have to do
the math. If you just click on the Relative check box, you can just add those 200 pixels,
and notice that Photoshop did the math for us and automatically added that. If that wasn’t
there, you can simply add 200, and then, leave your anchor point to the center, and make
sure your canvass extension color is set to white and press OK. And that adds 100 pixels
on each side on the top, the bottom, left, and right. So, we’re going to use this white
space to create the frame in 3D. I’m going to click on my Layers panel, and notice that
everything is in one single layer and it’s in a background layer, which is locked, which
is what you want to have. If you have different layers, or it’s not a background layer that’s
locked, simply go into Layer, Blend Image. After that, go under the 3D menu and click
on New 3D Extrusion from Selected Layer, and it’s going to turn this layer into a 3D layer.
And, by the way, I’m going to press Ctrl S, or Command S to Save. It’s always a good idea
to save as you’re working, especially in 3D, okay? So now that I have everything saved,
what I’m going to do now is I’m going to click on my Scale Tool, which is this one right
here, the one that’s got the icon on the camera. I want to come to the bottom left and settle
this square, and I’m going to click and drag to Zoom Out, like so. So that way, I have
some space and I can work with this. Then, I’m going to click on my Rotate Tool, and
I’ll rotate the image just a little bit, just so you can see what’s going on. So, notice that this is now a 3D object and
what we want to do is we want to flatten this and then, we’re going to use this white space
and turn that into a picture frame. So, the next step is to click on the background layer,
and we’re going to change the Extrusion Depth to zero. Click on the Background layer once
again, and notice that this flattens. If I rotate the image, if I come into the square
and rotate, notice that it now looks like a flat piece of paper, which is what you want.
Then, we got to make an Extrusion out of the white part of this image. To do that, I’m
going to click on Cap, and we get this HUDsóHeads Up Displays, and you can Click and Drag these
to create different Inflations or Bevels or Angles. The one we’re going to be using for
this tutorial is the Bevel Width. So, click on the left yellow icon here. Click and Drag
that to the right and you’ll notice that the image will start popping out, like so. Once you go pass the edge of the image just
a little bit, stop there, in this case, it was 26.6. You can use this if you like or
you can use a Bevel Width, here, on the side. So, you can Click and Drag this if you wanted
to, but I’ll leave it at 26, and I’ll go ahead and rotate that, just so you can see what
that did. It just extruded that out, okay? The next step is we got to create the edges
and grooves that picture frames have. To do that, you’re going to use a Contour Tool here,
and you can click on each one of these, and notice that you get a different 3D Extrusion
depending on which one of these you click. This is essentially a Curves layer, so you
can double click on this and then, Click and Drag the points if you wanted to. But the
one that I’m going to use is the one, here, on the bottom right. This one here called
Rounded Edges. I want to click on that, and notice that it now looks more like a picture
frame, as you can see there. And what I’m going to do now is I got to give this a material
that looks like wood. To do that, I’m going to click on my background Front Bevel, this
layer here, and I’m going to select this material, right here, on the bottom right called Wood
Redwood. If you don’t see it, click on the fly out menu and select Default, and then,
just press OK. And you don’t have to save your current materials if you don’t want to;
I’m not going to. I’m just going to click “No.” It’s going to look the same for me because
I was already in the Default Materials, but once you set your Default Materials, select
the one on the bottom right, here, and notice that it immediately applies that material
to the Extrusion. You can use whichever one you like, any of these others, but I found
this material looks better in this particular effect. Now that we have this selected, our frame
is pretty much completed. We’re going to make a few changes in a little bit. What I’m going
to do now is I’m going to bring in the background. So I want to go into File, Place, and I’m
going to select the background image and click on Place. My background image is not as big
as my background, so I’m just going to hold Shift, Alt, and Click and Drag one of the
corners to scale this image, so it fits into my background. Press Enter. Go into my Layers
panel, and I want to Click and Drag the background image above my frame, and I want to rename
this layer “frame,” just so I can reference it better as I’m talking to you guys. I’m,
also, going to press Ctrl S on my PC, or you can press Command S on your Mac, to Save the
image. And what we have to do now is we got to place this image better on to our composition.
I’m going to double click on my frame 3D layer, and what we have to do now is we have to make
sure that this ground plane matches my background. So, I’m going to Click and Drag on this square
and move my ground plane around. The first thing I need to do is make sure
that my horizon line, which is this gray line here, matches the background’s horizon line.
I don’t really know where the horizon is on this background image, but I know that it’s
somewhere in this general area. So, that’s okay, I’ll leave it there. Next, I got to
make sure that these lines, and, actually, let me move this to the side so you can see
better. These lines have to somewhat match the vanishing point of this image. So, you
can tell where the vanishing point is if you follow this line, here, and you follow the
edge of the table here, to somewhere around this point. So what I’m going to do is I’m
just going to match one of these lines to follow the line here. So I’m just going to
Click and Drag that to the side there, and I know my horizon line is moving, but I can
bring that back up. And if this square is a little too hard for you to work with, click
anywhere outside the background layer, like here, and you’ll notice this selection around
the canvass. And you can just Click and Drag back here if it’s any easier for you. So,
I’ll try that; so, somewhere along there. Notice that my horizon line is back where
it was and this line is following, more or less, the perspective of this image. Again,
you don’t have to be perfect. As long as you get it close enough, you’d be able to fake
the effect. Then, I’m going to click on my Drag 3D Tool and drag this down to place it
closer to the actual table, so that the picture frame looks like it’s sitting on the table. So now that this is pretty much where I want
it, I’m going to click on my frame. I’m going to move it along this Z-axis to move it back,
and then, move it this way a little bit. And it’s a little too wide, so I’m just going
to scale that down, so I’m going to scale it on the Y-axis just a little bit. Bring
it this way, like so. I’m just looking at the yellow box, here, and then, clicking and
dragging to the left, like so, to bring the scale in a little bit. And I’ll probably move
it back along the Z-axis just a little more, and move it on the X-axis to the right a little
bit. Also, now that it’s here, I’m going to rotate it. I don’t want it looking straight
at me, so what I’ll do is I’ll rotate it a little bit to the right, like so, and I’ll
rotate it back, as well. Oops, actually, that’s not rotating it back. That’s rotating it side
to side. I’ll rotate it back a little bit because picture frames are usually kind of
leaning back a little bit, like that. So I’m going to go ahead and deselect that, and as
long as you’re on the edge of the table, you’re fine. I’m going to press Ctrl S to Save once
again. Actually, everything’s looking pretty good, but I still think that I’m a little
too close to the edge of the table, so I’m going to click on it again, and move it back,
like so. And I’m just looking for a good place to put this, maybe, here. We’ll just put it
there on the edge of the table, and that’s where we’ll leave it. And I’m going to click
on my Marquee Tool to get rid of all my 3D Tools. I’m going to make a selection around
my 3D image, and I’m going to do a quick render just to see what we got. Okay, so, now that we did this render, there
are several problems with the image. Number one, the image is looking a little washed
out, so we have to fix that. The shadow is not quite matching our scene, so we have to
fix that. And we have to add a reflection like everything else in the scene has a reflection
on the table, so we have to add that same reflection here. So let’s take care of one
problem at a time. First, let’s fix the way this image looks. To fix this, we’re going
to click on our Front Inflation, and we’re going to change our shine to 100%, and that
gives it the contrast it originally had, and it makes the image look much better. Next,
we have to fix the shadow. If you noticed in our scene, there’s not really any shadows
anywhere on the table, at least, maybe just some shadows, here, under this, but not really.
So, I think, it would be best if we just get rid of the shadow. So I’m going to click on
the environment and I’m going to click on my shadow’s Opacity, and just take that down
to 0%. I’m going to scroll down here, and we need some reflections. So, I’m going to
add a reflection. We’ll make it around 46% or so, and if I Click and Drag, and Render
this, you’ll see that the reflection starts appearing on the table. Now, the problem with
this reflection is that it’s very sharp, and it goes off to the edge of the table, here,
on to the bottom, and even a little bit on the floor, so we got to fix that. But, before we do that, let’s try to match
this reflection to the reflection of everything else on the table. One way of doing that is
to increase the Roughness. So, I’m going to increase the Roughness about 16 or so percent.
I’m going to go ahead and render this, once again, just so we can see what we’re working
with, and we make the appropriate changes. Okay. So this reflection is looking much,
much better. I think it might be just a little too rough, so I’ll just make this 12% and
I’m just going to render just the reflection. I’ll just do it a little bit faster this time.
I’m just going to stop there. I don’t really need to render this side. I saw how this side
looks, and it’s looking pretty good. It’s pretty much what I wanted, so I’m just going
to leave it there, for now. But feel free to play around in your composition if you
want to, okay? So, the next step is to hide the reflection of the edge of the table. So,
to do that, we’re going to go into our Layers panel. Under Frame 3D Layer, we’re going to
add a Layer Mask and I’m just going to draw with a black soft brush on the bottom, here,
just like so; just deleting those pixels. Maybe I’ll make it better transition there.
Actually, I’m going to fill it with white now and I’m just going to bring some of that
that I took away, that I think I need, and that’s what our reflection looks like there.
It’s looking pretty good. Now, one of the things we have to do now to
match this 3D object to our scene a little bit better is match the color of the wood.
So I want to take the colors from here and put them on our frame. So, what I’m going
to do is I’m going to select my Eyedropper Tool, and select one of the bright colors
here. And, actually, the reason I’m not getting a color here is because on my Layer Mask,
I’m just going to click on the actual layer or better yet, on the background layer and
select one of these lighter colors; something like that. And, for my background color, I’ll
select one of the darker colors, maybe that color there, and I press OK. So we have our
light color and our dark color, and we’re going to use this in a moment. Now, I’m going
to double click on my 3D Layer. I’m going to click on the background front bevel and
under Diffuse, I’m going to click on this icon, and click on Edit Texture. And this
is our texture here. This is what’s creating the wood in that texture. And, by the way,
a little quick tip here. I want to show you how this was created. I’m just going to turn
off all the Smart Filters and I’m going to turn that layer off. So the designer that
created this, all they did is created this white square, then, they added Fibers, Motion
Blur, a Zigzag Effect, and Polar Coordinates to create that texture. Then, they added a
Gradient Adjustment Layer to give it this color. So, what we’re going to do is we’re just going
to change the gradient map, and, by the way, I’m going to click on the icon here, so I
can see the colors over here. Earlier, I was on my Layer Mask, which gives me just black
and white. But if I click on the icon here, I get the colors I selected just a moment
ago. So I’m going to double click on this Gradient Editor. I’m going to double click
on the lighter reddish swatch here, and I’m going to select the lightest color. Press
OK, and I’ll do the same for the darkest color and click on the background color here. Now,
I’m noticing that there’s not much contrast, so, maybe, I want to just darken it up just
a little bit, see how that works, then, I’ll press OK. I’m going to press Ctrl S or Command
S on the Mac, to Save. Then, I’m going to go into my layer, here, which is the picture
psd, and notice the color changed a little bit. I’m going to go ahead and render that
in, see how that’s going to look. I’m just going to stop it there. The colors are better,
but they’re still not quite there. So what I’m going to do is I’m going to make them
just a little bit lighter; maybe the lightest color needs to be just somewhat lighter, and
this one, as well. I’m just kind of eyeballing it here, and you might have to play around
a little bit to get the right colors going there. And, by the way, I just pressed Ctrl
S, and I’m going to go back and select my picture layer, and it’s still not looking
the way I want. You know what? I just thought that there’s
this weird shadow thing here. I’m not exactly sure what that is, so let’s figure that out.
I’m guessing that’s part of my environment. Well, I don’t think it’s my shadow because
my shadow is there. Let me see if it’s my reflection, so I’m going to just shut that
down. Yeah, and that’s my reflection. I’m not exactly sure what’s causing that. Okay,
so, I think the problem is the Infinite Light, so let me just move this. Even though we shut
the shadows off, and, yeah, that’s what the problem was. There was this weird glitch going
on here. I know we turned off the shadows, but the Infinite Light was still showing,
so I just have to move that just a little bit, and, you know what? Now that I did that,
let me just fix the light here, because we do need to fix the lighting for this scene.
The lights coming from this window, so it’s probably going to be lit, you know, something
like that, I would say, and I’m going to click on my Marquee Tool. I’m going to do a quick
render just to see how everything is looking. And, it’s still a little dark here at the
bottom so I might want to fix my Infinite Light again. So I’m just going to click on
that and lighten it up a little bit, maybe, like that. And, you know what? Now that we’ve been working
with this, I feel like I have to move this back, just a little bit, it looks like it’s
too close to the edge, maybe, something like that, I would say. And make sure that this
is on the table; that it’s not like going all the way down, like so. So, maybe, like
right on the ground plane, like right there, something like that. So I’m going to render
this once again. Yeah, and I think this is looking much better. I like this position
better. I like the reflection better, and, I think, things are looking pretty good. The
only thing I would do now is, maybe, try to match these colors just a little bit more.
I’m not going to take the time to do that. You saw how we were doing that earlier just
by clicking on that Gradient Map. So, you can keep doing that if you want to. I’m just
going to stop there. Now, another thing you can do is you can go back into your layers
panel, and you can add an Adjustment Layer to the background. For example, you can add
a Curves Adjustment Layer and do the S-curves that I love so much. You probably see me do
them in just about every tutorial. I just like to use them to give contrast to images,
and I can do the same thing to the Frame Layer. So, I’ll add another one, but this time, I’ll
add a Clipping Mask. I’ll hold Alt in-between both layers until I get the down pointing
arrow at the square next to it. That’s Option on the Mac, by the way, and, by clicking between
both of them to create that Adjustment Layer, and then, you see this little down pointing
arrow here, and you can make adjustments to the Frame Layer as well. And, if you wanted
to, you could also control the colors of it here. And, although I like the way this is
looking, it might be a little too much contrast, so I’m just going to bring the Opacity down
and leave it there. And this is the result. This is how you create a picture frame in
3D and add it into an image. And that’s it for this tutorial. As always,
I hope you enjoyed it and that you learned something new. Leave any comments or questions
down below, or head over to my Facebook page, and leave them there if you like. Also, feel
free to share with me any designs you come up with using this technique. I would love
to see your stuff. And don’t forget to subscribe to my free newsletter, where I provide “subscriber
only” content. Just enter your email address in the box in the top right side of my website
PhotoshopTrainingChannel.com. Once again, thanks for watching, and I’ll talk to you
guys again, soon.

How To SHARPEN Images In Photoshop – Sharpening FULLY EXPLAINED


Welcome back to another very exciting tutorial
here at the PhotoshopTrainingChannel.com. My name is Jesus Ramirez and you can find
me in Instagram @JRfromPTC. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how
to sharpen images in Photoshop. If this is your first time at the Photoshop
Training Channel, don’t forget to click on that Subscribe button. Generally speaking, there are three types
of sharpening: Capture Sharpening, Creative Sharpening and Output Sharpening. Capture Sharpening is the sharpening that
you apply to an image to bring back the detail lost through the lens, the process of capturing
the image to a sensor, and converting it to a digital format; the demosaicing process. To offset this loss of detail when you open
up a raw file in Camera Raw or Lightroom, you’ll see that the Sharpening Amount is set
to 25 by default. If you open up a jpeg, instead, the Amount
will be set to zero because your camera or the device that created the image adds the
Sharpening by default. In this tutorial, we will focus on working
with a JPEG to further enhance the Capture Sharpening. If you’re working with a raw file, you can
follow the steps on the Camera Raw example to sharpen any raw images that you may have. The other two types of sharpening are Creative
Sharpening and Output Sharpening. Creative Sharpening is applied selectively
based on artistic intent or an aesthetic look that you’re going for. Creative Sharpening is usually not realistic
or subtle. Output Sharpening is the last step that you
apply to an image. It is done when you reduce the size of the
photo and export it as a JPEG or if you’re going to print the image. Both printing and downsizing an image may
soften it and it may need a bit of sharpening. In this video, we will work on sharpening
this photo. It is important to note that we will not be
bringing back any detail. We can only create the illusion of sharpness
in Photoshop. This is done by increasing the contrast of
edge pixels which makes it seem as if there is more detail. This process can create edge halos or increase
noise, so it’s always a good idea to make subtle adjustments. Also, when applying sharpness, always view
the image at 100% so that you can really see what is happening. Any other view will be inaccurate and misleading. There are no rules for settings that you should
always use. The amount of sharpening that looks good depends
on the contrast of the texture of the image. The only thing that seems to hold true for
most cases is that you should apply subtle adjustments. Okay, let’s get started. The first sharpening method that we’re going
to use is one that you probably have seen before. It’s not one of my favorites but it’s a very
popular one and I want to show it just so you can see what it does, how it works, and
why I prefer using other methods. So I have this image here. It’s simply a background layer. I’m going to duplicate it by pressing Ctrl
J, Command J on the Mac, then I’m going to go into Filter, Other, High Pass. And it’s going to create this effect here;
1.6 pixels will be okay, then press OK. Now there is a little bit of color on this
image, so I’m going to zoom in so that you could see it. I’m going to desaturate it by pressing Ctrl
Shift U to desaturate; that’s Command Shift U on the Mac, or you can also go into Image,
Adjustments, Desaturate. Then, you can use either Overlay, Soft Light
or Linear Light, to sharpen the image. I’ll start with Soft Light, which is the most
subtle effect; that’s before and after. Then Overlay, which is a little bit stronger,
and finally, Linear Light, which is the strongest of the three. In this example, I’m going to use Overlay
and I’m going to double click on the Zoom Tool so we can zoom in to 100%. And as you can see, this method sharpens the
image. It does a really good job. However, it applies a Sharpen to the entire
image. If I zoom in and disable the layer, you can
see that the sharpening effect has been applied to the entire image. Now, that’s not necessarily a bad thing. That may be good for the image that you’re
working with, but in some cases, that is not what you want to do. Now, I understand that you could use something
like the Lasso Tool and maybe create a mask around the sky where you don’t want the image
to be sharpened and create a layer mask. If I hold Alt, Option on the Mac, and click,
you’ll create a layer mask that is black with the selection that’s active. If I hold Alt, Option on the Mac, and click
on the layer mask thumbnail, you will see the layer mask. And I know it’s not a perfect layer mask,
but it’s just for an example. So that will be one way of making this sharpening
technique target a specific area. You could also double click to the side of
the layer and use the Blend If options to adjust the sharpening. Now, as I said, this method works okay. A lot of people prefer it, but it’s not one
of my favorites, so I’m going to disable this layer for now and I’m going to show you another
method that I think works better, and then I’ll show you a third method which I prefer. So I’m going to duplicate the layer, Ctrl
J, Command J on the Mac. So now we have a background copy. Then, we’re going to use Filter, Sharpen,
Smart Sharpen. But before I show you Smart Sharpen, I’m going
to click on Unsharp Mask, which is the old sharpening filter in Photoshop. I know a lot of people still prefer it, but
mainly because it’s been in Photoshop for a really long time and it’s very easy to use. It only has three sliders. Now, this is, again, not one of my favorites
simply because there is a newer, better filter. Now I recommend zooming in to 100% when you’re
working on sharpening. So I zoomed in but I’m way pass 100%, so it’s
really easy to just type in 100% here and hit Enter or double click on the Zoom Tool
to zoom in to 100%. Then, go into Filter, Sharpen, Smart Sharpen,
and you’re going to get very similar sliders to the ones that you saw in the Unsharp Mask,
but you get a little more control and the algorithm is a little bit different with the
Smart Sharpen. The first slider, the Amount slider sets the
amount of sharpening that you can apply to the image. A higher value increases the contrast between
the edge pixels, giving the appearance of greater sharpness. So if I click and drag this all the way to
the right, and I know this is an extreme, you will see what I was talking about and
I can zoom in in this Preview window. There’s a lot more contrast between the edge
pixels, which gives that illusion of sharpness. You usually don’t want to drag these sliders
all the way to the right. You want to create subtle effects and you
want to avoid edge halos. Now, for this tutorial, I’m actually going
to maybe increase it further than I would normally do in a real project because I want
you to see the effects are being applied to the image. With the recording and the compression of
the video, that may not be so obvious if I use subtle amounts of sharpening. So keep that in mind I’m probably going overboard
in most of the examples I’m going to show you in this video. So that’s what the Amount does. Then we have the Radius. The Radius determines the number of pixels
surrounding the edge pixels affected by the sharpening. In this case, we’re telling Photoshop to use
1 pixel from the edge to apply the sharpening. Reduce Noise reduces some of the noise found
in the image. So we may have noise in the sky and other
areas that shouldn’t have any sharpening applied, so we can increase the Reduce Noise to reduce
some of that. Then we have the different types of algorithms
that Photoshop will use to sharpen the image. Lens Blur is default. In most cases, you may want to use Gaussian
or Motion Blur. For this tutorial, we’re just going to work
with Lens Blur. So this is the sharpening that we’ve done
so far. I’m actually going to reduce the amount just
a little bit. You can still see it there. You can click on the Preview checkbox to disable
it and enable it. Notice that most of the filtering is happening
here in the foreground, a little bit in the trees back here, and not much in the sky,
which is what I want. If I scroll up, you’ll see that not a lot
of noise is being applied to the background here in the sky and these mountains, so that’s
what I want. Another reason why I prefer the Smart Sharpen
is that you have the ability to control the sharpening in the shadows and highlights. If you click on this right-pointing arrow,
it expands the menu. And now you can control the Fade Amount, Tonal
Width and Radius on both the Shadows and Highlights. Fade Amount allows you to reduce the sharpening
applied to the image and the shadows, so, in other words, these settings that you applied
on top will be reduced by this slider on the Shadows and this slider on the Highlights. You could also think about it as an Opacity
slider for the Sharpening and the Shadows. Tonal Width controls the range of tones and
the shadows or highlights that are modified. In other words, it controls how dark the shadows
are that are going to be affected. A lower tonal width will only affect the deep
shadows and a larger tonal width will affect the deep shadows and dark grays. And in the Highlights, the Tonal Width, of
course, controls the whites and light grays, and the Radius controls the size of an area
around each pixel that is used to determine whether the pixel is in the shadows or highlights. Moving the slider to the left specifies a
smaller area and moving it to the right specifies a larger area. So, as you can see, there’s a whole lot more
control in sharpening with these sliders. I’m actually going to go into the Presets
dropdown and set it to default; so that’s before and after, and I’m going to press OK. Now, even though you have much more control
with this than you do with the High Pass Filter method, this is not the way that I prefer
doing my sharpening. What I prefer using is the Camera Raw Filter,
so I’m going to click on the background, press Ctrl J, Command J to duplicate, and I’m going
to convert this to a Smart Object so that we can work non-destructively. We didn’t do it in the earlier example with
the Smart Sharpen, but I also recommend using a smart object if you’re going to apply the
Smart Sharpen. So, go into Filter and select Camera Raw Filter. This is going to open up the Camera Raw Filter,
of course, and under the Detail tab–this one here–you either have Sharpening and Noise
Reduction sliders. Now, these sliders are somewhat similar to
the ones that we just saw in the Smart Sharpening. But the reason that I like using this slider
is that we have visual aids that help us make the sharpening. So, first, I’m going to set this to 100% so
I’m just going to click on the dropdown menu and click on 100% so that we can see what
is really going on in the image. Then, you can adjust the Amount and most of
these are very self-explanatory. They work very similar to the Smart Sharpen
sliders amount on how much sharpening do we want. If we go all the way to the right, you’ll
see that we sharpen the image dramatically, but it doesn’t look very good. Now, I said that these sliders give us visual
cues, and what I mean by that is that if you hold Alt on all these sliders, except for
the Color ones, you’ll get a visual representation of what’s going on. So I’m holding Alt, Option on the Mac, I’m
going to click and drag, and notice how the image is now black and white. It removes the color so that we can better
see the sharpening that we’re applying to the image. So, in this case, I’ll probably go up to maybe
60. Then the Radius, once again, hold Alt, Option
on the Mac, click and drag. So you can clearly see what’s going on. We can see the shape of the outline. This is a sharpening that is going on. So, you can adjust it and, obviously, this
is way too much, so the radius will probably be good at 1, maybe even less. So that you can see what’s going on, we will
leave it at 1. Then the detail, once again, I’m going to
hold Alt, Option on the Mac, click and drag, and you can see the detail that we’re affecting. If we go to 100%, you can see in the sky,
we’re getting a lot of noise, so that’s not very good, so we’re going to move that to
the left and maybe leave it at about 35 or maybe even lower, maybe 30. Then, the masking, if I hold Alt, Option on
the Mac, and click, the image will be completely white; this works just like a regular layer
mask in the Layers panel. White reveals, black conceals. Right now, the entire image is white, so the
sharpening is being applied to the entire image. If I start dragging to the right, you’re going
to see some gray, and eventually some black areas. Just like with the layer mask, black is going
to hide this sharpening, so if I release now, the sharpening is not being applied to any
of the areas that were black, so, you can adjust the slider accordingly to hide the
sharpening effect in areas that don’t require it. Then, you have the Noise Reduction. I’m going to zoom in a little bit more just
so that you could see. If I hold Alt, Option on the Mac, click and
drag on the Luminance slider, you’ll see how I’m removing a lot of the detail. You don’t want to do that and the reason it
turns black and white is so that you could see what’s going on without color affecting
your judgment. I don’t want to go too far, maybe a value
of 5 or lower. In this case, we’ll leave it at 5. And once again, I’m going to go back to 100%
and you could see the Details slider and how that works and the Luminance Contrast slider. Now I said that the Color sliders don’t give
you any preview; if you hold Alt or Option on the Mac, and for this image, we don’t need
these sliders. These sliders are intended to be used with
Noise that have color. The noise that we have here does not have
any color so it doesn’t change much. We’re going to leave the Color slider at 0
(zero) for now and it will disable the other two sliders. I’m going to press OK. The Camera Raw Filter will apply the Sharpening. If I disable this eye icon, you will see the
before and the after. And just like you can with the High Pass Filter,
you can apply a layer mask to a Smart Filter and it’s already there–it’s here. That’s what this white square is, so you can
always paint with black in areas that you really don’t want to affect and you could
also go to the side of the layer and even do some of the Blend If sliders if you need
to. And, of course, you could always double click
on the Camera Raw Filter label to bring up the Camera Raw Filter once again and make
adjustments to the Sharpening and Noise Reduction. This is the method I prefer just because it
gives me a whole lot more control. And that’s it for this tutorial. I hope that you enjoyed it and that you learned
something new. If you enjoyed this tutorial, don’t forget
to click on that Like button and share it with a friend. Also, don’t forget to subscribe to the Photoshop
Training Channel. Thank you for watching and I’ll talk to you
again soon.

How to make Pinterest and social media image templates in Photoshop

How to make Pinterest and social media image templates in Photoshop


Hello! I’m Cristina from Elan Creative
Co and in this tutorial I’m going to show you how to make social media images
that stand out. Although most of my images are made in Illustrator, I’m going
to use Photoshop for this tutorial because I use Photoshop every time I
work with photos. I know it can be a bit intimidating but you only need a few
basic Photoshop skills to make beautiful images and it’s so much better than
other apps because you have complete control over the design. I’m going to
create an image template for Pinterest and for my blog so I’m going to start
with a canvas that’s 800 pixels wide and 1200 pixels tall. The resolution is set
to 72 ppi because we are only working for web and the color mode
is set to RGB. I’m also going to start with a white background. In case you are
wondering, I’m using a 800 pixels width because my blog’s width is 800
pixels and I want a tall image because it’s more visible on Pinterest. If you
want to create images for Facebook or Instagram you should use the recommended
image size. If you want to save the width and height of your Pinterest template, just click on the icon next to the template name and you can save the
template. Let’s call it Pinterest. Just click on save preset and it will
appear here in the Saved preset area. So click on create. You don’t have to be a
Photoshop expert to create image templates. We are only going to work with
the layers panel, maybe the color swatches, the move tool, the type tool and
the shape tools. If you can’t see the Layers panel you can open it by going to
Window>Layers or pressing f7. To unlock the background layer just click on the
lock next to the name. Let’s prepare our workspace. I usually like to see rulers
at the edges of my canvas. To enable rulers,
just go to View and make sure Rulers is checked. Also make sure Snap is checked.
Go to Snap and click on All. Another thing you need to enable is Smart Guides.
This will help us arrange everything on the artboard. Now I usually create a few
guides. So go to the horizontal ruler on the left side of your canvas, click on it,
and drag a guide to the middle of the canvas. You will feel it snapping into
place when it reaches the middle. Also go to the top ruler and drag a guide to the
middle of the canvas. We are going to start by creating the background layer,
so go to the layers panel, click on your layer, and then go to Layer>Smart Objects>Convert to smart object. This will turn our basic layer into a smart object. You
can see the icon over here so if you double click on the thumbnail next to
the name of the layer a new file will open. Let’s use the Fill tool to recolor it.
Now go to File>Save or press Ctrl + S and close this layer. When you go back to
your image template you’ll notice that this layer is black. So let’s double
click on the thumbnail again and let’s add an image. So I’m going to go to File>
Place and I’m going to use this stock photo. Now this stock photo is almost the
same size as my image. I am just going to click on this button to make it the same
size. Now if your image is larger you can resize it and
press ENTER to save. Now I’m going to press Ctrl+S to save the image and close
this window. So now we have an image layer. If you want to use another image
you just double-click on the thumbnail and you can easily replace it. Let’s
click on the name of the layer and change it to Background. This image
is perfect for your blog post or social media graphics because it has this white
area over here where you can add text. It’s very important for the text to be
legible so if your image is very cluttered you can add a background under
the text to make it stand out. So I’m going to switch the color to white and
I’m going to use the rectangle tool to create a background. I am going to use
the Move tool to center it. Maybe it’s too big so I’m going to press Ctrl + T and make it a bit smaller. All right. So these
magenta lines that you can see when the image is centered are actually the smart
guides that we enabled earlier. So we don’t really need these blue guides, so
if you want to remove them just click on them and drag them back to the rulers.
Next we are going to add the text so switch to the Type tool. I am going to
change the font to Montserrat. This is a font i use for my blog and my
graphics. Let’s make it a bit bigger and I am also going to use a dark grey for
the color. So just click on the canvas and enter your text. So my text is
centered but I want to make ‘Pinterest’ and ‘images’ larger, and ‘how to make’ and ‘in
Photoshop’ a little bit smaller. So I’m going to go back to the Type tool click
on them, press Ctrl + A to select all of them and
make them a little bit smaller. This looks right so I am going to use the
Move tool to make sure the spacing is equal. If you have the smart guides
enabled you will see the distance between them when you move them. So now
I’m going to select all the layers and make sure they are centered. If you want
social media graphics that stand out, it’s important to use beautiful photos
or textures and to use fonts that look nice and are also easy to read. It’s very
important that your font is legible so you should use a simple sans-serif font,
one that matches your branding or maybe one that you also use on your website. If
you want you can add a second font, just for accents and you can play with the
weight of the font or use italics to highlight some parts of it. So I am going
to change the weight of ‘how to make’, I am going to make it medium, and or
maybe let’s change it to italic. This looks great.
I also want to add the name of my blog and the category this post it in. So
let’s click on the canvas, change the font weight to medium and make
this a bit smaller. And I’m going to type in ‘blogging’ and let’s center it and then
I am going to add the name of my website. Okay this needs to be smaller. Maybe
let’s add it over here. Now I want to add a background for the categories so I am
going to go to the Rectangle tool, change the fill color to this pink, and I’m
going to create a background. I’m going to move the layer under ‘blogging’ and
using the Move tool I’m going to add it over here. Let’s see if we can change the color of
the text and maybe make it white. This looks great but I think we should
move in stare up here maybe move these layers just a bit down. This looks
better. To save the file, just go to File>Export>Save for web. I usually save the
file as a JPEG because if I’m using photographs, JPEGs are smaller than
PNGs and I use a quality of around 60. I also use an image compressor such
as TinyJPEG to compress it before I upload it to my blog. Then when you are
ready just click on Save. I also save a copy of the file as a PSD so just go to
File>Save as and save your file. If you save the file as a PSD you can always go
back later and edit it. Hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial! If you want to see
my favorite stock photo websites or if you want to learn how to optimize images
for your blog and social media please check the video description. There are a
few links to my blog posts. If you want to see more Photoshop and Illustrator
tutorials, please subscribe to my channel. Thanks for watching! you