Capturing Movement With Continuous Shooting | I AM Different Tips ‘n Tricks

Capturing Movement With Continuous Shooting | I AM Different Tips ‘n Tricks


[Continuous shooting.] Hi, I’m Thomas from Nikon School. We’re here
on the set of the Blossom project and I will give you
some tips about photography. In order to capture
the moment you really want, especially when you take
some pictures of movement, the burst mode will help you to break down the movement
with many images. Especially if you have a moment
that will never happen again. You can use this burst mode
and secure your images. So about the D7200,
what makes it stand out is that there is a special burst mode
at 7 frames per second which is made by the crop mode. And then you’ll have
even more images to bring back
the right moment in your images. [Discover other inspiring ideas!
Explore more.]

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE UPGRADING YOUR CAMERA | PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS HINDI

THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE UPGRADING YOUR CAMERA | PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS HINDI


Have you ever thought that the camera that you own is probably outdated? Probably its time for a new camera I hope I had that expensive, beautiful camera but then with the budget constraint I am unable to buy that… 🙁 If you own a camera already, is it the right time to upgrade? is there a need to buy a new camera , right now? Do you feel you will improve on your work with your new camera? Lets discuss on that..! 🙂 Firstly, let me tell you I was very confused if I should make videos in English or Hindi then, I created a poll and based on the result of the poll I have planned to make videos in Hindi, but you may find me speaking in English.. here n there… Coming back to the topic, let me share with you.. until some days back…. I have been thinking about upgrading my current DSLR to something really new and expensive one.. like.. Canon 1DX M2 OR Sony A7RIII with which I could make more beautiful pictures and videos with them….!! I used to get these thoughts consistently so, i thought that I need to have very strong reasons to either BUY them OR drop my plans of upgrading….!! So, when I thought of upgrading , they were technical advantages of the new Camera…. but when I thought about it logically I felt, probably its not the time for me and then I decided NOT to… Now let me share the reasons why it was not necessary for me to upgrade and I feel these reasons are going to help you as well to decide for yourself if you indeed need an upgrade..and eventually you may cancel your plans …. Why I thought about this….. I figured out there were so many things in my own Camera that I did not know very well… the reason could be that, I have not yet completely exploited my Camera..!! and even before I exploit my camera to the fullest, i am falling for new and expensive ones… So, the thought of going for a new camera is not great… My 2nd question was have I applied all possible techniques and skills in my genre of photography and then decide that the only thing to pending is to buy a new advanced camera? there are many things actually that I can do with this camera..! 3rd important question was … its a general tendency to think about a new camera for getting good quality photos…. but is there anything SPECIFIC that I am missing out on this camera, related to my interest/ work which I see in the new one? I had a 500D canon DSLR camera I had upgraded it to 5D M3 5D M3 was so important for me because I was into wedding photography…. I desperately needed a full frame camera specially to exploit my wide angle lens. I also needed a Camera with 2 card slots obviously because I did not want to change cards during an event and miss out on any important moments.. 5D was the only camera that was having 2 card slots those days… I rented 5D for around 10 weddings I really liked it ad I thought I should buy… So, even you need to think if there are any SPECIFIC TRIGGER POINTS which is compelling you to upgrade If the answers to all the 3 questions are ‘YES’ then you can go ahead and get a new/ expensive Camera If not..! its high time that you start exploiting your current camera.. Let me tell you… when a beginner photographer looks at a picture clicked by me and asks me ..” which camera? actually the question is wrong the question is irritating and invalid if the questions would have been could you let me know the settings…. which time of the day you did this shoot? whats lens did you use to get these result? All these are important questions…! In fact DSLR body’s contribution is negligible… except for clicking the picture and saving it to your memory card..! this can be done by any DSLR…. Yes, we can differences in ISO sensitivity, colour range and dynamic range… but its very negligible…. Potato jet- is a youtube channel, this guy is a film maker… he has compared Canon 80D , a mid range DSLR with ARRI ALEXA a Hollywood film making camera… If we look for differences we don’t find much.. Of course, we see differences … but nothing that can make a difference to you creativity …. the link for the video is in description, look for yourself….. One more important information…. Photographers find it difficult to handle flash after watching a lot of youtube videos, after a lot of trial and error, after experimenting in a lot of different lighting conditions…. I learnt how to use and so will you…. you will slowly understand the relationship between the flash power and shutter speed…. but without understanding the concept , if you just go for a high end flash for a better light… I can assure that you will not have it… the result will not be good…. So… expensive flash, expensive cameras, expensive accessories won’t help you… Then… What will? Its always about techniques, knowledge, skill and experience …. you need to develop this.. if you develop a skill today or understand a technique no better investment than that…… By using your knowledge and skills, you can even make beautiful photos out of a 7 year old camera… And … keep on thing in mind… Best camera is the one … on which you have maximum expertise.. And even big budget Hollywood films have used cameras like 5D M2 and 5D M3 in many of their sequences If a 1 – 1.5Lkh camera can replace 5+ lakh body…. then we can definitely use our old, existing heap cameras to make very beautiful pictures.. Parker walbek – one of my fav youtuber he shows in his video how a simple room can look cinematic when recorded with a mid range simple camera.. this happens with experience and understanding of light….! the full video link is in the description… do have a look.. Today, I have shared enough instances/ examples, given you some reasons.. to give a second thought on buying a new camera body…. Do expensive cameras really make a difference well, we will see a difference… but very little…. Major difference is made by your knowledge, technique, skill and experience … rather than thinking I wish I had an expensive camera…. Please give a thumbs up and let me know if you have liked this video… 🙂

Photography tips 2 in Marathi ( hindi subtitle )

Photography tips 2 in Marathi ( hindi subtitle )


halben jahrhundert nicht viel los so dass der verkehr vor ihm wegrennen der körper viel kann ich meinen als hallo kann zahlt mehr möglich scheint könnte lässt sich der kleine autos halten die 100 euro fällig sind meine fotos heimisch ist verlass sagte oktober verliehen durch mein letzter tag x vor die füße die fehler 115 fotos ausgeschnitten und auf deiner erschüttert die hand einer woche könnte der kreis erweitert berlin ots mundharmonika nicht immer wieder fleisch zu mischen die hatten unterlagen und handys kann man die fotos wir haben unsere werte von sterlite mit einer vertieften die nutzung bei seiner arbeit autohaus südstern obleute

Levitation Photography Tutorial: How to Hover with Multiple Exposures

Levitation Photography Tutorial: How to Hover with Multiple Exposures


Hi, I’m Chelsea. And for our book, Stunning Digital Photography we’re going over levitation photography.
Now there are two ways to take a levitation photograph: the first way you just set a high
shutter speed and have your subject jump and it creates the illusion that
their floating. The method were going to be using is that I’ll be propping myself up with these
books here, taking two pictures and then blending the two exposures
together in post to make it look like I’m floating. The
only hardware you really need is a camera and a tripod, but because
this is a self portrait for us we’re also using a remote shutter release
and a few other pieces of equipment I’ll get into later. The first thing you’ll want to do before you take your shot is make your story. So I had envisioned a couple sitting
together and reading by fire so I got these prop books and I got
Tony, my prop husband and found a nice nook of
the house that would look good on camera. So we set up our camera and a tripod and kind of played around with the crop
and the angle to make sure that we have our fireplace in the shot and the lamp and the chair, everything we
thought would be attractive. One interesting thing that we did was I
really wanted it to look warm I wanted it to look like the fire was
glowing and we were nestled up and comfortable in our home. so we got another light on a tripod,
another flash, put an orange gel over and put it
behind our fireplace which actually goes completely through to the
other side and had it flash through at us so that we had nice
warm lighting like the fire was glowing. To trigger the flash that we set up
behind the fireplace, we used a PocketWizard. We also used the flash on
top of our camera to kinda bounce the light off of the wall and
fill the room with light from the other directions so that the lighting wasn’t too
hard. Next, we set our camera timer to an 8
second delay and just kind of posed for a while. Once you get the pictures that you like,
move out of your frame, take a picture of your background and
then it’s time to bring your photos into post processing. Now that you finished taking your
pictures, load them onto your computer and use your editing software of choice to
start merging your photos. It doesn’t matter which editing
programming you use, I’m going to use Photoshop, but as long as they can blend two pictures, you’ll be all set. I’ve loaded my pictures into Lightroom,
so I’m going to click the levitation photo of my choice and then I’m going to choose a
background picture to blend it with. Using Ctrl click I selected both pictures at once. Once
you have your photo selected right click, then choose Edit In, then go to open as layers in Photoshop. Now that
you have both of your pictures imported into your editing program put your levitation photo on top. So you can see, the background is on the bottom. Select both
of your pictures go to Edit, and auto align your layers to make sure
that they match up. Using the Auto projection option works
just fine. Next select your top layer, your levitation
photo, and create a mask. Click on your mask, select your paintbrush tool and make sure that you’re painting in black, and you can start to erase the books out of
your picture. I like to make sure that my paint
brushe is soft and that my opacity is fairly low I have
it at 48 right now. So let me zoom in here, I’ll make my brush a little bit bigger, and you can
start blending away whatever it is you’re levitating on. So one problem we ran into when we
started editing the pictures is that I noticed that the background picture had cooler lighting than the picture with me levitating and I think
it’s because one of the flashes was bouncing off me and making a warmer
light. So what I did was I selected my
background photo and in the adjustment layers I put a photo filter on with the color orange and warmed up the background a little bit
until the color matched the foreground better. That’s pretty good. And since you’re opacity’s low, you can just
kind of blend the pictures together so that the color differences isn’t so obvious. Once
you have your color adjusted, you can continue taking those books out out. Another problem that I
ran into is that my skirt was falling behind the books at one
point so I can’t just use the layer mask and paint out the books. So what I did was I selected a section of my skirt,
making sure that I had the hemline in there, and create a new layer to paste
the piece of clothing into. Now that you have part of the skirt pasted in, you can move it. Go to Edit, Free Transform and line it up with the rest of the hem. Now that you have the skirt in there, it’s really rough,
you can use an eraser and I will just blend it in. This is kind of a
rough example so I’m gonna do a little bit more tweaking and play around with this to get it just
right and then I’ll cut to the finished product. Next I’m going to reimport it into
Lightroom by saving my photo and finish up the rest of my editing there. Now than I am in Lightroom I’ll click on
Develop to finish editing and crop it down a little
bit. Next I’m going to soften my photo up to
give it a warmer, cozier feeling. By just roducing my clarity just a little tiny bit. I usually like to
just play with my adjustments a little bit to get the get a nice feel going in the picture. So it’s
all just a matter taste. And there you have it! There is our
finished levitation photo. There are a few other pictures that I
played around with it as well If you’d like to see more videos from us,
click subscribe above and if you’d like to learn more about
photography, buy our book, Stunning Digital Photography. You can get it on
Amazon, you can get it for iBooks. All the links will
be down below and don’t forget to LIKE us too. Thank you.

My Instagram Workflow; How To Upload from DSLR to IG

My Instagram Workflow; How To Upload from DSLR to IG


Most smartphones released within the past
few years are almost just as capable as point and shoot cameras. In fact, there are only a small handful of
point and shoot cameras that are still worth your while. They also simplify the process of sharing
your photos to social media. But, smartphones still fall short to DSLR
and mirrorless cameras. And frankly, I prefer the photos taken from
my DSLT compared to those taken from my phone. So, let me share with you the process of getting
the photos off my camera and onto Instagram.This will also work with files that are already
on your computer, such as screenshots and Photoshop edits. I briefly touched upon this in an earlier
video, but it all revolves around this app called Google Photos. Okay, so step one. Take your photo using your dedicated camera. Step two, import your photo into your computer. This can be done by attaching your camera
to your computer using the USB cable. But, I prefer to transfer my files via the
SD card. Step three is to open Google Photos through
the web. Then, take the photo that you just imported,
and drag it into Google Photos. Finally, step four. Open the Google Photos app on your phone. Then, find your photo and hit the share button. It should look like this on android devices,
and like this on iPhones. Find and tap Instaram, make any necessary
adjustments, and then you’re done. You can just share it as if you just took
it on your phone. There is very little quality lost in the process
of uploading your photo to Google Photos. Additionally, you will be given unlimited
storage on Google Photos, and since this is Google, you will have very powerful search
tools at your disposal. So, that is it for this quick video, thank
you for watching, and I’ll see you in the next one!

DSLR Tips – DSLR Photography Tips, DSLR Video Tips And Techniques – For Beginners To Advanced

DSLR Tips – DSLR Photography Tips, DSLR Video Tips And Techniques – For Beginners To Advanced


okay see you just got your DSLR tips or maybe
you’re thinking about getting one or maybe you’ve had one for a while you
want to take your skills to the next level all the best place to do that is right
here right now I was in the exact same spot you were
several years ago when I got my DSLR and I didn’t know
what the settings were I didn’t know how to take a picture DSLR tips huh I made all the mistakes that
everyone makes when they’re trying to figure things out
on their own so if you’re like me chances are you pictures are out of
focus they’re blurry they don’t have the cracked white
balance they’re not compose properly the exposures probably of the
not colorful enough or word you’re just taking pictures /a
really boring things that no one wants to look at dslr photography tips now I was in that same place years ago but after years experimenter Asian years love looking into forms reading books and watching YouTube videos I finally
have figured out the best and fastest way to fix all those
problems the people go through in the beginning
know you could do the same thing I did where you spend years upon years
experimenter thing but chances are you want to speed up
your results fairly quickly and that’s why I’ve
compiled the best East sensual hor information about photography into this online video
course you’re gonna get a huge jumpstart at photography in general you see most courses the only teach you a
fragment what you need to know and we’ve got the
rest they don’t cover the big picture some courses will teach you how to use
your physical DSLR but they won’t teach you about
composition other courses DSLR tips will teach you about post-production but
they won’t teach you about light but in this course everything is
contained in the big picture format she you can
get it big picture idea about what is going
on and what makes a good picture the course
is divided up into for modules the first module is just all about mastering your DSLR
camera show you how to pick up your DSLR and understand what all the buttons are
on your camera so you can have the confidence to know
what settings you need to adjust when you’re taking pictures have a
certain subject in a certain situation so in this module I’ll be going over
things like the aperture shutter speed ISO exposure focusing modes metering modes the white
balance all my good stuff is all in module one so after completing module one who have
a complete understanding a pure physical DSLR camera and then you
will be able to move on to module to which is
all about photography equipment now i dslr photography tips camera body is
technically photography equipment and they do
compare contrast different types idea solarz you can get
a feel about if you’re if you thinking about getting a DSLR
then this module will help you as well but out also be comparing and
contrasting different types have lenses DSLR tips when you would want to use certain
lenses in certain situations in 11 you I’ll be reviewing different types of
filters he could put on the lenses to get certain affects in all also be doing a thorough review
of all the lighting equipment that I used just to give you an idea of the industry
standard what you can have a new york kit to get good images and then after
that all done we’ll move on to module three which is all about composition know when
you’re holding your dslr photography tips in your hands in your looking through the viewfinder it’s all night and dandy the you know
what all the settings doing everything but if you don’t have the photographers
II then you’re not gonna know what to look for to take interesting pictures and interesting way so in order to guarantee they’re going
to be taking pictures you’re really just gonna wanna know about the universe or
composition principles up photography the principles that all
good photographers use and have always been using throughout all time
have these principles DSLR tips aren’t going away anytime soon when you
show people your photographs are actually gonna be drawn into the photograph not repelled by it
they’re not gonna pass over it because it’s something born-again wanna keep
looking at it because it’s so interesting you’ll know
the best times a day to take your pictures how to position your subjects with in
the frame and you also know all about how to light
up a portrait and what type of lighting to use to get
a certain mood dslr photography tips and then of course after that we’ll be
going on a module four which is just all about post-production to learn how to edit your photos on the
computer by using the Adobe software I’ll be
using both Adobe Lightroom and Adobe Photoshop after watching this
module your photos will be brighter sharper
more vivid and dynamic and they will just be perfected like a
strawberry sundae with the red cherry on top so if you’re ready to start building a
solid foundation in photography and learn it right the smart way simply
scroll down to the bottom of this page click the Add to Cart button filling
your information using the secure order form and then
you’ll be taken to members area where you can watch all
the videos DSLR tips online almost forgot there’s also a 60-day 100 percent money back
guarantee so if you aren’t satisfied in the least
bit with this course just email me within the sixty days and
I will refund your money completely just scroll down to the bottom of this
page place your order and by this time tomorrow you’ll be a
better photographer thanks so much for quickie by I’ll see
you inside the members area dslr photography tips

Off-Camera Flash Tutorial (Wireless Flash/Remote Flash/PocketWizard)

Off-Camera Flash Tutorial (Wireless Flash/Remote Flash/PocketWizard)


Hi, I’m Tony Northrup and for chapters 3 and 6 of my book I want to tell you about using a remote flash. By taking your
external flash off camera you can get studio lighting effects on the cheap. So you’ll need a little bit of extra
equipment, the cheapest way to get into it is to use what they call an off-
camera shoe cord. These shoe cords aren’t expensive at all,
but they have a limited reach and if you get a longer cord there’s a good chance
somebody is going to trip over it. For that reason this type of cord is
primarily used by wedding photographers who happen to use a bracket to allow
them to move the flash from horizontal to vertical positions. A better solution
is to get a wireless shutter trigger. These triggers from cowboystudio will
only cost you about thirty dollars. You connect one to the flash and one to your
camera and any time you push the shutter the flash
will fire. These cheap versions are a little bit limited though. First, they’re not completely reliable,
they’ll flake out sometimes and they might even break on you. So they’re not good
for professional use but that might be okay for amateur use. Second, they
don’t communicate all the, what they call the ETTL information, from the flash to
the camera. So your camera might not be able to auto
expose your flash correctly. That means you’ll need to manually adjust the flash
up and down. If you’re comfortable doing that it’s actually a great way to learn
and it’s something I prefer anyway. If you have a little bit more in your
budget you can upgrade to a PocketWizard system. PocketWizard is the system that I use
and the system will cost you about 450 maybe 500 bucks for both the transmitter
and the receiver. However, they’re completely reliable and
they work just great. So, to demonstrate how you can use off camera flash, I’m going to start by
taking a picture of Chelsea there without any flash. Note that i’m using a
remote shutter trigger which allows me to trigger my camera without actually
standing next to it. This will allow me to move around with
the flash. This system only costs about thirty dollars, you can get an off-brand
for that and I’ve had great luck with it. So I’ll fire that first picture. That’s
without any flash at all, not a bad effect. Now we’ll try it with an
on-camera flash. The on-camera flash look isn’t bad but it’s really common and it’s very flat. It adds a catch light to the eyes but it
also hides a lot of the detail in the face and doesn’t bring out, say, the
cheekbones in a portrait. You can make that much better by taking
your flash off camera. The first thing I’ll do is I’ll take a
picture with Chelsea and I’ll hold the flash just a little bit higher than it
would normally be so you can see the difference. I think that’s already a much more
pleasing effect. But as long as you’ve got the flash off camera you can walk
anywhere with it and check out the difference between side lighting, back
lighting, or any other type of lighting that you want. I’ll walk around now and
take a few different pictures so you can see the variety of different effects
that are available. You can see the wide variety of effects just by
moving the light to different places around the model. I want to show you one more trick. We’ll move to a wider angle shot of Chelsea and I’ll show you that you can
remove yourself from the photo. So this allows you to stand closer to the model
making the light brighter and a little bit softer by adding those two layers in
photoshop later we’ll be able to remove you or your light stand from the picture. So, first a shot without me in the picture.
Now I will move into the frame so I can light Chelsea directly with the flash. By using multiple exposures we can add those two pictures as layers into
Photoshop. Then, using the eraser tool I can simply erase myself from the picture. It’s an old photographers trick, it actually happened in the film days using multiple
exposures. This was for chapters three and six in
my book Stunning Digital Photography. If you liked it please click Subscribe
above so you can see new videos that I make and click like down below. Check out my facebook page Tony Northrup Photography and remember when you want to take portraits don’t just take it, make it.

Photography Tips Auto Focus Modes Part 2 – single point

Photography Tips Auto Focus Modes Part 2 – single point


So we’ve looked at the areas,that’s were around the picture you’re gonna tell you where to focus and you’ll have another layer choice and that is how far into the picture you want to
tell your camera to focus that’s the distance between you and your
subject and there are various modes to help you
down the front here on the nickel we have continuous single the manual. manual you’re
gonna do it yourself single means the camera will lock a focus
and hold it as long as you keep first pressure on the shutter button and continuous
means it’ll track things let’s look at single to begin with so if
I set the camera to single focus mode I’m gonna combine that with the single point area mode, because i’m gonna take a picture here, Rhys how you doing mate? minor ie You’re looking cold, right i’m gonna chose the single point around the frame where Rhy’s eyes are gonna be, because that’s what I want sharp, it’s portrait. I use my multi-directional lid on the can and you twiddle a little button on the top there and you chose the point in the view finder where you want that single point of focus to be, so let’s get my shot lined up, i like that, that’s really cool just look straight at me mate. that’s really good, nice one cheers rhys. And that’s really all there is to it, If you’ve got a nice static un moving subject then it’s really really simple. single point, and single area, you could use this for anything, it could be a close up of a plant or a wine glass it could be i don’t know, that building over there single point is great for non moving
objects. But this time, i have got a moving subject, and as rhys is moving towards me i’m letting the camera track his progress. I do that by using the continuous focus mode On the Nikon i just set this little thing round here and i click it on to the C for continuous continuous means that as long as i hold first pressure on the button here on the shutter button
the camera will track the focus of whatever I
have filling the viewfinder, let me show you, if i come back here a bit and point the camera you, there we go and focus it, as i move forwards i don’t know if you can see but the little barrel on the front of the camera is moving its twisting itself I’m not
doing that the camera is doing it it’s tracking that movement between me and between you, now that’s all well and good if you want your subject smack in the middle filling the frame like Rhys was just then. but i wanna take a picture of him not in
the middle I wanna put him over to one side and to
do that we’ve got to combine a couple of different modes together

Photography Tips – Backlight: shooting into the light (P1)

Photography Tips – Backlight: shooting into the light (P1)


We’ve all heard that old wives tale about keeping the sun behind you when you’re photographing so that its lighting up whatever it is that your camera is looking at, but there’s no reason why you should
always do that in fact some of the most impressive
interesting pictures you could ever see are taken against the light, shooting
into the Sun. let’s have a quick look at it if I move
around here take my glasses off. Now the Sun is pretty much behind me and Jayne is sort of shooting against the light. If she changes the exposure a bit for my face the shadows that were there a moment ago
have disappeared and i’m in a much more even light . Okay the backgrounds possibly gone a bit lighter but there’s no reason why you can’t shoot into the light. If your cameras up high you get a different sort of a angle and perspective in the background. why does it look good? In all these pictures notice that the
shadows are coming towards the camera that’s
because the light is behind the subject regardless of what
it is and in some of these pictures you can see the Sun in shot. The Sun with the beach hut here, the only thing that really makes this picture interesting because let’s face it, it’s a very simple image it’s the sun and the highlight of light on the timbers. So why is it that this works so well? what is it about putting the light behind the subject, what makes it sort of work so well? Let me just, i’m gonna try dump my sunnys some where, i’ll put them on my bag. Look at these ropes here again, there’s all sorts of interesting textures and stuff in’t there within a rope. But right now the light is pretty much over my shoulder. Let’s just take a picture, i’m just gonna shoot the edge of these ropes here, so that you can compare something. right, there’s a shot going that way and if I go the other side and I just take the same picture going in that direction you look and see
what a difference there is to the ropes and I know the background is going to be very very slightly different. look how much more texture there is, why is there more texture? why do the ropes look more ropey. Well come and have a look, if you go, Jayne go that side with the camera for a mo, if you just look at these ropes from where you are over there. The lights
coming this way and so there are no shadows all the
little hollows and nooks and crannies in rope, they’re all filled in. if you come around this side and i’ll do a little pirouette the other way now when you look at those ropes the light is coming from this direction so there are little shadows forming on this side and those shadows and little nooks and crannies created by the weave of the rope they’re giving it a texture, a shape which makes it much more interesting. Let’s go and have a little look for a picture, over here we’ve got some flags, come on Jayne let’s go and have a look at these flags. now we can approach these in lot’s of ways. I’ve photographed these flags a few times actually because I think they’re quite interesting. Let’s take one going this way so i’m working with the sun. the sun’s over here and i’m gonna photograph those flags in this direction, let’s see what we’ve got I’m using a
wide lens let’s just get down here because i don’t want the car or the van in the shot. It’s not a bad picture we’ve got some nice blue sky going on with the red flags, there’s not much drama is there? So if I go and stand the other side and put the Sun right behind these little flag poles. There’s about to be a collision by the looks of it. whoa that was close, someone in a sailboat he hasn’t even
acknowledged the fact. Nevermind sorry I got sidetracked, they just about missed hitting the lifeboat. When I come round this side and put the Sun directly behind the
flags and take a similar picture now I’m gonna
put the actual Sun itself right behind the little pole that the flag is mounted on because I don’t want it coming straight into my lens. But i’m just gonna hide it behind one of those little poles, see if I can line that up properly. There we go, put it in focus, waiting for the breeze to flapper the flag nicely and one more for luck, there we go. I think you’ll agree i think that is much more dramatic because the light is coming along the
flag it’s giving it a shape and a texture by putting the Sun immediately behind
this little thin pole. The sun isn’t going straight up the lens, but it’s sort of bursting out from the Middle and it’s giving it a whole load of interest and kind of drama I suppose is the word and we’ve looked at a couple of examples where you can use this on very very small details, when i was here having a wander around waiting for jayne to arrive with the film camera they did have to launch the life boat, that’s why I was kinda interested in that and as they launched it I shot these pictures, as you can see the light is behind the lifeboat it’s coming towards
me but I think it looks really rather
dramatic looks quite exciting show you can use this sorted
backlighting shooting against the light technique not only for smaller details but you can shoot in a landscape as well
because it’ll bring out textures in the countryside little hillocks and all the rest of it.