Hello, my name is Scott. Today we’re
taking a look at this Canon PowerShot S200 Digital ELPH camera. It was released
in 2002. It’s a nice small compact easy to use camera. The S200 has a 1/2.7 inch CCD sensor in there. And you also
have an optical viewfinder that zooms when
you zoom the camera. The lens inside is 35 to 70 millimeter
equivalent lens in there. And also f/2.8 to f/4 through that zoom range. It is a 2
megapixel sensor. As I mentioned 1/2.7 inches, so
decent size. There is a three-point autofocus system
in the camera. You can let the camera decide which point to use.
Or use the center point. Those points are right in the middle,
so you don’t have a lot of versatility but it’s in there it’s nice auto focus.
Also has an auto focused assist lamp on the front of the camera.
The camera can focus down to 57 centimeters or 1.9 foot in normal mode,
but in macro mode… Which you can access from one of the
back buttons, can go down to 10 centimeters or 3.9 inches.
The maximum shutter speed on the camera is 1/1500. It’s a mixture of electronic and mechanical shutter in there.
When you go into the manual mode on the camera you can adjust the: exposure
compensation, the iso, and also the white balance. So
pretty versatile. Can’t do full manual, but at least doing
exposure compensation is pretty nice. Plus or minus two stops on that. There is
a built-in flash on the camera. So depending on where you’re zoomed at
at least in full wide angle you can do around 9.8 foot maximum for that flash. The main modes on the camera are
automatic, of course. We have manual as I mentioned with exposure
compensation and all of that. Also has two different stitch assist
modes. It does have a self timer, great for
taking photos of groups of people or something when
you don’t have someone to take the photo. It’s pretty nice you’ve got 10 seconds
or 2 seconds. The camera takes compact flash type 1 cards.
That means with the card that comes with it it’s 8 megabytes. Get around 8 photos
maximum quality with the camera. However I do have 128 megabyte card.
So nice decent amount of photos if you get a large enough card.
This can do video up to 640 by 480 for four seconds. You can do 320 by 240 or
a smaller resolution with a little bit more time to them.
Let’s actually test that out real quick. Do a quick video. Let’s started up… I don’t know if it’s working. Maybe it’s
working, who knows! Taking a video with the S200.
I’m not sure what resolution it’s at! It was at 320. This is at 640 by 480 selfie video. Pretty amazing! The video in here should
be about 20 frames a second. There is an accessory port on the side
of the camera. Comes with two different cables. You’ve got one for USB
and one for auto video out. So if you have a nice large CRT you can connect this to review your photos. Let’s take a look at some of
the sample photos from this camera. I’m going to go full resolution you can
check those out. Of course they’re in JPEG… Now let’s check out the simple video
clips from the camera… kkkkaaaaaaahhh mmmmmeeeehhh hhhhhaaaa mmmmeh… aaaaaaaahhhhhhhh hahahaha hahhaha Well like you said, that was the best
we’ll ever get on that elevator. Yep. Oh well! That’s really weird… Huh! Okay…. police brutality! heeoooopppee Yeeesss. Wooooaahhh! haha haha ha ha There’s water in my feet… Of course, when you turn the camera on
the lens does have to extend. So you got a little bit of time from
turning the camera on to taking a photo. On the bottom we’ve got, of course, the
battery area. And also tripod socket. Nice and metal.
It’s not in-line with the lens, which I always gripe about. But it’s good enough
that it does have that on there. You have buttons on the back:
Set, menu, display, and another one for various
functions. White balance or deleting photos
depending on what mode you’re in. What can I say besides it’s a great
little camera. Nice and compact. Nice build quality.
Solid metal on here That was a look at the Canon PowerShot
S200 Digital ELPH camera. Hope you enjoyed the video. I’m Scott from Photography Banzai. If you did enjoy the video… Please consider subscribing. That helps me out a lot. Likes and shares help out a
lot as well. Thanks again!
Guys, let me show you one of the best features
of the new Canon M50. This is the camera. This is my phone. I will take a picture. And
you can see the picture appearing on my phone straight away. Don’t you just love it?
♪♪♪ When I get a call from a client,
I know that they want the highest quality image for the
best price. And as a producer, I’m very conscious of that, but
also deliver a high quality image. Canon provides that solution
for us. JOIN Productions is a production company that
specializes in corporate video. Large or small businesses,
conferences, social media, even television commercials. So we started our little company
using EOS 5D Mark IIIs, and grew quickly into using the vast
array of the Canon family. We’ve grown into using EOS 5D Mark IVs,
EOS C200s, EOS C300s, and now the Canon XF705,
which is a beautiful camera that we enjoy using for corporate events. Some of our events are smaller.
Some of our events are bigger, but we need to be mobile. We
need to be able to move around. So when I look for a camera, I
look for an all-in-one solution, and XF705 is that solution
for me. One thing that I really like is the XF705
has a built-in L Series Lens. It’s got a great focal length. I
am able to get a super wide shot of the arena that I’m in
for a corporate event, and my crew finds that the telephoto
lens on it is fantastic. The broadcast quality image on
the XF705 far exceeds all my expectations and it’s all in one
unit. Canon solves a lot of problems for me whether I’m on
the go and I need something quick, the XF705 answers that
problem. If I need to shoot stills and video at the same
time, I find that the 5D Mark IV is a fantastic camera to go to.
If I really want a cinematic look, I lean on the C200 or the
C300. Canon has been a great partner. We are able to grow
with them. They have an excellent facility in Burbank
where we can go and test out new cameras, tell them the situation
of the corporate event, and they will make recommendations
based on our needs. Knowing the cameras that we’re
using and knowing that we can rely on the family of Canon
bodies and lenses allows me to be as creative as possible in
as short a time period from out of the case, to on set,
to in the can right away. ♪♪♪
I really like this camera, especially that it goes up to 65 optical zoom And, it’s perfect for nature photography So what I really like about this camera, is that it’s lightweight, it’s really good for travel photography and videography It’s great for videos with 4K, and it’s great for photos with it’s effective zoom rate I think the guys in the group this morning really took well to the camera Pictures we were taking in The Green Planet with the animals, perfect for this type of camera
What’s going on guys? Bendji D. Here from
Get Fixed and today’s review is on the Canon EOS Rebel T3I. After three seconds of using
this device, I was immediately intrigued by it. This was a major upgrade for me in terms
of specification. My previous camera, the Nikon D3000 did pretty well in terms of taking
pictures. With its 12 mega pixel sensor, the images come out quite sharp. But I knew I
needed an upgrade. This camera is at least 10 years old, I know this because my dad gave
it to me. To make matters worse, it does not record videos which is the main reason I wanted
a camera. The Canon EOS Rebel T3I comes with a 18-55
millimeter stock lens, which also comes with a built in image stabilizer to reduce the
shaky handheld effect. I wouldn’t recommend using the stabilizer on the stock lens because
it is very hard to pinpoint the difference when the stabilizer is turned on. The T3I contains a CMOS sensor which stands
for Complementary Metal Oxide Silicon. It is ten times less sensitive than the CCD sensor.
I know many people say the size of the sensor does not matter too much in terms of getting
great quality images, but I still think the pixel counts plays a big role in sharpness.
Here are some sample videos I took with the Canon T3I.
I am currently using this and the Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Plus to record these videos,
all I need now is good lighting. If you would like to see part two to this review where
I show you the best settings to get great quality images no matter where you are, be
sure to click the subscribe button and ill see you next week.
Any ways guys, Bendji D. Here from GET FIXED and I’m out. Peace.
My name is Canyon Florey. I’m the designer of the Feather Camera Crane: a portable, lightweight
adventure jib created for easy use in remote places. What separates the Feather Camera Crane from the rest? It is designed to perform in
the dynamic elements that you will encounter when working in the world’s extremes. That
means setting up and flying it on top of snowy mountains, narrow spires, or on the side of
the trail. Another unique attribute of the Feather Camera Crane is its lightweight design. Made
from carbon fiber, the crane breaks down to 28 inches, and weighs only 3.8 pounds. With a 10
foot boom, it has various configuration options for DSLRs and other larger video cameras.
No other jib will give you as much production value in wild and remote places. It was designed to stow in two sections
because we found that having multiple packing options can be very valuable when all of your
gear is going on your back. The boom sleeve was engineered to fit inside your tripod case,
or next to the tripod on your backpack. The rock bag, which is made from the same materials
as your backpack, is small and compact and can be stored in many different ways. This
is the boom protective sleeve, which is made from 5 mm stretch neoprene and has a balanced
carrying strap. Our design philosophy here at Lite Pro Gear centers around innovation. Rethinking new
and creative ways to improved upon current components and materials is what we do best.
You’ll find that these flip locks are much easier and faster to use then rotating locks,
especially when operating in snowy or icy conditions. The tower and other components are anodized
aluminum which is weather and scratch resistant. The mounting screw is secured in a track and
is compatible with either a 1/4″ 20 or 3/8″ screw Another innovative design feature is centers around the rock bag. It doubles as both a hardware bag when transporting your crane, and as the
counterweight bag. Instead of lugging weights around, fill the bag with rocks, water bottles,
snow or sand until the system is balanced. You can also slide standard weight plates
onto the jib handle. You’ll find that the camera is self-leveling as it goes up and
down. You can make adjustments to the front head for versatile camera mounting and visibility
of the LCD screen. We also offer an extension plate for larger cameras. Looking to add cool
additional movements to your shot? Try tilting your fluid head while panning the crane to
take your creativity to the next level. Are you heading to Mt. Everest, Peru, or the Amazon? Or just need a versatile boom
to shoot multiple angles for an event, the Feather Camera Crane has proven itself as
the first choice for working professionals world wide. No other jib weighs so little,
is built as tough, and packs so small. Swooping cinematic landscape shots, revealing opening
shots, push and pull movements, and even short slider moves can all be achieved, and bring
some rad elements to your project. Visit Lite Pro Gear.com for more information and learn
how the Feather Camera Crane can help you create better images.
Astrophotography is so exciting, but, you need to get to grips with a few basics to achieve great results. It will take a bit of experimentation, but there is one set up I always try first. I shoot with manual exposure, I use a 16mm lens shutter speed 25 secs, aperture is f/2.8, and with an ISO 3200. Wide angle shots work really nicely to get in lots of the Milky Way, but tighter shots can work well too. Just bear in mind that you will have to reduce the exposure time to stop the stars blurring as the earth turns. With these long exposures you are going to need a sturdy tripod and self timer release to help reduce shake. The key is a bit of planning, Before you set out, find out where the moon and Milky Way are going to be at different times and set your shots accordingly. The moon is always tricky. A little bit of light can be your friend, throwing some light on the landscape. But stars always look better with no moon at all. This is just fantastic.The result of night time shots can be really stunning, so please do give it a go.
At the end of the last year it happened when I started with my camera trap photography. It began when Kätu and I found a badger’s den. That’s when I set up my trail camera. Despite the winter Estonia didn’t had almost no snow, that’s why the badgers where surprisingly active. In addition to badger my trail camera captured lynx, raccoon dog and a red fox. The reason why I setup the trail camera was because I wanted to get to no better animals’ activity, therefore I could eventually start building the camera trap and set it up in the future. Hey, today I’m starting with the second part of the camera trap vlog. The reason why I devided this vlog in separaate parts was because I saw that the whole process is quite time-consuming, therefore I’d like to give you already some sort of story while I’m still cathering the last pieces of the whole outcome. The purpose of this second part is to build the camera trap. Most of the things I’m needing to build the camera trap is already arrived.This is the thing I wanted to share with you. Let’s start from the beginning. Here are two flashes. I’m going to build this camera trap with 2 flashes. Here are 2 specific flashes – Nikon SB-28. Which are actually old film camera flashes. The reason why I needed these specific flashes was that these are really good for camera trapping. One of the reason is that these are with a very fast wake-up time. When these are in sleep mode, they are able to flash already at the first photo. A lot of regular flashes are not capable to wake up so quickly. Usually the first photo is a black photo and not before the second photo it won’t flash. In camera trap photography it is super important that the flash would wake up already on the first photo. In addition the flash capacitor doesn’t discharge the charge that often, which means it stays charged for a longer time and it charges less often. Which means the battery life is better. As I said, these are film camera flashes and no store is selling these. One I bought from Japan, through Ebay. And the second one I found in Estonia, someone still had this flash. So much about the flashes. Today I also received another package. As I mentioned, these are Nikon flashes, but I’m going to use Canon’s 60d camera so, Nikon and Canon are not capable to work together, therefore I needed a transmitter and receiver which is custom built. Camtraption is the company who is selling those custom built widgets. As I said, costom built so they would work with Nikon flashes and Canon body. Here I have one 1 transmitter and 2 receivers. The third good new was, that when I was today at the post office I found out that I have a third package waiting for me. Here are those sensors, which I’m going to use to built my DIY motion sensor. Why I’m so surprised is because I knew that these will be delivered not before the end of February. I have no idea why these arrived month before they were actually supposed to arrive. This is a super news, because now we are able to start building the whole thing! So much about the packages that arrived. Now I’m going to Overall, which is the main reseller of Canon products. There is one friend of mine, whose name is Martin. He is a technician there and I asked, if he could help me with building the sensor. Because I’m not competent enough to build a sensor by myself. He has also pointed out some other topics regarding the whole camera trap process. I think that involving him to the project will only be beneficial and will result in the final product. See you in a bit, when I’m already in Overall. We are here in the Overall. In the background you can see Martin is already doing some stuff. At the moment we are going to experiment with different things and hopefully we will start building the sensor. Basically, you have to… if we are looking exactly at the diagram. One will be connected with the red one, and the other one with the white one. It will start melting in a seconds. Let’s put quite a lot of tin. Hold the red cord against it. You can also blow some air, then it dries faster. – It seems like sort of a type of art, who’s able to tin more beautifully. We have spent some time building the sensor. Now it is the moment of truth. Did we do everything correctly or the sensor is not working. – It should be taking photos by now. – Seems like we failed our first try, there seems to be some sort of a problem. It isn’t working as it is supposed to. We spent 2 days building it but with no luck, the sensor didn’t start working. Seems to be another problem. Now it is getting signal constantly. A little update. We have done everything like it is on the paper, but somehow it isn’t working. We have run out of ideas. At the same weekend I headed again to Luhamaa, therefore I took the sensor with me and gave it to my another friend Ats, who kindly suggested that he can also try to fix the problem. Unfortunately he wasn’t also able to find the solution during the weekend. Despite the problem with the sensor I was dealing with some other topics regarding the camera trap. I spent multiple days looking for specific food containers which would fit the flashes. Also I found a perfect case for my camera. Also the finally product that was missing from the whole arrived with the post. I received another package. Now I can say that I have everything I need to build the camera trap. Let’s open it. Let’s have a look what’s inside here. Here is one Magic Arm from Manfrotto. Here are two Super Clamps. And here are two flash sockets. This is the setup I’m using to secure the flashes. I’m needing 2 pair of these, because I have 2 flashes. This is how the setup looks like. Yes, it is possible to do with the easier solution. But I decided that if I’m doing the project then I’m going to do it properly. I didn’t want to start using the Macgyver tape to attach the flashes to the trees. I wanted to use the solution that is able to hold the flashes in position for multiple months. Today is the third time here at Overall. Before we start building everything, I wanted to tell you some good news. Martin told me today that he was finally able to make the sensor work. I’m going to test it in a second. But before I wanted to show you 2 things. when I started with this project I really didn’t had anything, I had to get all the stuff. A new camera, new flashes etc. As funny as it seems, the small things are the ones that have made me the most excited. First thing is a normal food container. I’m going to put the flash inside here. The reason why I’m so happy about the find is because I spent quite a lot of time looking for this specific container, from different stores. I wasn’t able to find this kind of large container with the locking system There were a lot of these kind of food boxes, but they were too small for the flashes to fit inside. Also they were on a sale, so I got these 2 with only 7€. The second thing that makes me really happy is this toolbox. A lot of camera trap photographers are usin similiar box for camera, it is called pelican case, but this costs around 150€. I found this with only 18€. Another magnificent find. If you open it, then you find a foam hidden inside the box. Let’s have a look at this sensor now, because I understood that it is working perfectly. The sensor is really working! If I’m passing the sensor, then the camera is triggered. I’ll turn on the flashes too, then you’ll see how it is really supposed to work. As you can see, it already took a photo. Super awesome! It is working perfectly. Right now we are going to imitate the situation. – Very cool! Maybe you could take on step behind. As you can see, it took the photo immediately. Maybe you could sneak closed like some sort of an animal. As you can see, it still took the photos. So cool! Very cool! Let’s say that our test runs have been successful. It is so cool to see, how all this project is slowly coming together. Now we are going to set this setup in a cold room to test how well are the batteries functioning in the cold. This way we can estimate how long the batteries would last in the field. Therefore we can evaluate if we need some additional power supply or not. Flash boxes are pretty much ready. There isn’t much to do to bee honest. Just made a hole in the cover. I’ll show you the other flash, it is already in the box. That’s how the flashes will be. They are easily accessible this way. The only thing we have to do with flash boxes is to paint these, with a camouflage paint. One week has passed. We are again here in Overall. And now we are going to build the boxes, cut the holes that are necessary and paint everything over. We also made a more interesting light setup today. In order to make a Daniel Schiffer-like b-roll. But let’s get started! This is definitely not the best news. I was able to cut myself pretty bad. This specific knife is very sharp. Martin took over. My school woodwork teacher Kaupo loan it to me and he also mentioned thet be extra careful with it, because it is extremely sharp. And I at least tried to be very careful. It cut quite deep. So I was lucky I didn’t hurt myself to bad. We just cut a hole for the lens. And now we will start setting the rivets. We are going to attach the stainless steel
with rivets underneath the box. This should make the box a little more sturdy. This is the rivet gun. We have trilled all the holes and attached rivets. The outcome looks very dope. And we also cut the proper shape for the lens hood. This is the outcome of the rivets. This is how the lens hood looks like. With a correct shape. No we are going to spray these boxes with the camouflage spray. It is finally March. This is our last time together here, because we’ve finished with most of the stuff. Right now Martin is fixing the issue with the transmitter. It doesn’t really fit into the box. And we are going to build the sensor into this little box. I spent more than an hour cutting the whole into it. It took me quite some time. But now it is perfect. As you can see, behind me is fully finished camera trap. First time I met with Martin and told my crazy idea, it was 8th of January. Today is 6th of March. Which means that the whole building process took us exactly 2 months. We met 7-8 times, I haven’t really counted. I didn’t film every time I came here. It doesn’t even matter to be honest. The most important is that the camera trap is ready Let’s have a look what it looks like! In the next episode I’m going to talk about the value of the camera trap. And I will describe a few mistakes that we made.
Canon EOS M50 Review. Consider it. The Canon EOS M50 offers novices
and enthusiasts a lot to like, but it’s pricey and will need more Canon lenses to make it
a truly full-fledged mirrorless system. Although the Canon EOS M100, the company’s
entry-level mirrorless camera, has only a few exterior controls, the step-up M50 has
more, which makes it better suited for enthusiasts who want to quickly change settings. Yet, like the Sony A6300 and A6500, the M50
doesn’t overdo it, and potentially overwhelm novices. Overall, I really liked the options for the
guided-menu system, which is an additional layer of information to keep you from getting
lost in the menus. What’s nicer is that you can remove it if
you don’t want it. The M50 has other impressive features. For instance, if you shoot lots of action
and sports, you’ll enjoy the 10 frames-per-second burst modes, which worked quite well for me
whether shooting JPEGs, RAW or a combination of RAW and JPEGs. Overall, my test shots and real-world sample
images were sharp, with crisp details and strong, accurate, vibrant colors. On my bright-light test image, even the small-size
text on color charts was sharp and readable. The gray tones on my value scale were rendered
very nicely, even in the low-light image, which shows the camera does well in capturing
dynamic range. I also found that in many cases, the M50 kept
noise to a minimum, even in low light. The Canon EOS M50 does a very good job in
many ways, but it doesn’t quite knock Sony’s A6300 from the top spot, due to low battery
life and lackluster image stabilization in video mode. Sony’s system also offers more lenses at this
point. But the M50 will meet the needs of most photographers, from novices to more experienced
shooters. Kindly see the description for this Amazon
product link. Thanks for watching this product review video. Kindly like and subscribe our YouTube channel.
The “ghosting” is when light images from
previous print jobs appear on newly printed pages. To begin, look at the drum. When a drum is too worn it may not discharge properly leaving behind faint traces of the previous printing job. If the drum is inside a toner cartridge replace the toner cartridge. The fuser units can cause “ghosting.” If the fusers are not heating the toner powder correctly, the toner will stick on the fuser rollers, and a ghost images can appear on the printed page. Check the fuser rollers. if they are dirty, probably the problem is here if the problem are the fusers, the toner do not bond properly on the sheet and if you rub the page, you should be able to remove the toner. You can know what is causing the
“ghosting”. measure the distance from the first line of ghost text to the same line of the printed text. For example: if the ghost text is at the same distance of the circumference of the drum. the culprit is the drum. You can also print a test sheet. Then, open the front door of the printer before the paper reaches the fuser. Remove the sheath of paper. If the “ghosting” is present the problem are not the fusers. The humidity can affect the toner powder. if the environment is too humid, the toner powder may clump inside the cartridge. The toner powder does not get charged
properly and this leads to “ghost” images on the page. If the drum is dirty, covered with toner probably the problem is the toner powder. Remove the old toner powder or change toner cartridge. Store the toner cartridges in a cool room, with low humidity check the machines environment The recommended environment for the machine is a temperature of 20 to 30 degrees and humidity of 20% to 80% without condensation if the paper is too thick, glossy, or not designed for laser printing, the “ghosting” will most likely occur. The fusers will not transfer all toner on the paper. Adjust your paper settings. if you are using thick, or glossy paper, refer to the printer users guide for recommended media types. Thicker paper and envelopes can only be fed through the MP tray If you are using normal laser printer paper and you have “ghosting” problems, try to select a different settings, such as thick paper, envelope thick, recycled. A paper that is intended for use in an ink-jet printer can cause ghosting If possible, print a cleaning page or run a dozen of blank prints. Dust and debris inside the printer can also cause “ghosting”. Clean the outside of your printer, to make sure dust and debris don’t get
inside the printer. Look at the transfer roller if it is at the end of its life, worn, or dirty clean it with a damp cloth.