Create a Tiny Planet Effect in Adobe Photoshop without a 360 Camera


Hey what’s up everybody and welcome back to another Gal tutorial. Today I’m going to be showing you how to fake a tiny planet
effect using a panoramic photo that I’ve got from Envato Elements and
superimpose a person, it could be yourself in this case it’s going to be
me to make it look like I’m standing on the planet I’m gonna add a fake Sun and
some cool shadow effects this is going to be a pretty cool tutorial so without
further ado let’s go ahead and jump in but first I want to let you guys know
that this video is sponsored by Oxygen bank and I’m going to tell you a
little bit more about that later on basically it’s designed to help
freelancers achieve financial freedom so let’s go ahead and jump on into the
tutorial. So to create the tiny planet effect without a 360 camera you need to
start with a panoramic photo now you can take a panoramic photo with your own
iPhone or camera in this case I’m using a stock image from Envato elements here
inside a Photoshop I have it open. The first step is to squish this image into
a square so go up to image and go to image size make sure that this link is
turned off and we’re going to make the width the same as the height and then
hit OK so now it’s squished now we need to flip it and then add a filter to
create the tiny planet effect so now let’s go to image and let’s go ahead and
rotate it 180 degrees and then with the layer selected go up to filter go to
distort and polar coordinates and select rectangular to polar and then hit OK and
now we have the tiny planet effect you can see that there’s some distortion
around the edges what we can do is actually get rid of that by just scaling
this up so let’s go ahead and scale this up and then we can reposition it so that
way that distortion is out of the frame and you can scale it up as much as you
want until the tiny planet looks about the
right size that you want so that looks good and now you can see that there’s a
seam where it was spliced together the two sides and we need to fix that we
need to make it less obvious so we’re going to use the spot healing tool.
if you click on the ellipsis here go down to find the Spot Healing Brush tool
and now let’s zoom in and let’s hit control to adjust the brush size so it’s
a little bit smaller and then we can click and go over this line and it
starts to make it less obvious don’t worry we’re going to use the clone tool
next so that way it’s even less obvious and let’s do the same down here over the
water let’s go ahead and go over that now if we zoom out it’s a little less
obvious now we need to use the clone tool to fix this area here so if you
click on the clone stamp tool and if you hit option and click you’re gonna take a
sample of this blue area and then if you click you can put that color overtop
here now what I’m doing is I’m just this clicking until I can start to make this
line less obvious so again option click start clicking over that building that I
replicated there and that way it’s less obvious what is happening there and you
can see if we just happened upon this photo fully scaled out you probably
wouldn’t have noticed that there’s a seam in there let’s go through and just
make sure everything’s ok let’s go up here it’s looking good
ok that seam is less obvious now it’s pretty good it’s not completely perfect
but remember we’re gonna superimpose an image of myself on top of this tiny
planet so it will cover up any more seams and if you want to change where
these buildings are around the world you can actually hit command – on a Mac or
ctrl – on a PC and you can click on this image and you can rotate this so the
buildings can change in rotation so if you want to shift it over just a little
bit like that you can do that as well I’m just going to leave it around here
and I think that looks good and hit return so now let’s add a Sun so that
way we can start to cast shadows correctly so I’m going to go down here
to new layer and I’m going to fill this in as a solid color black is fine then
I’m gonna go to filter and go to render lens flare and convert to smart object
so you can do this and you can see the different types of lens flares here
let’s choose the 105 Prime and hit OK and then because of the black we can
change the blend mode to screen and what screen does is take away all the black
so we’re just left with the lens flare and now we can click and reposition this
how we want I can even rotate it and just hit don’t
show again and hit okay and when we rotate it it’ll go away and then hit
return and you can see it again we can scale it up but but if we want to hit
return so now this planet is good to go you can export it as its own tiny planet
but what if you want to superimpose yourself or somebody else in the center
of this tiny planet that is what I’m going to show you next so let me open up
this image here of the cutout that I created so this was the original photo
of just me standing on my balcony here and I just removed the background so
here I am with a transparent background I can just click and drag myself on top
of this planet here and then I can scale myself down and just place me roughly in
the center until it looks right so right around here is fine and then hit return
and make sure that I am behind underneath the Sun layer so that way the
Sun and the light affects the image so it looks more natural to the scene now
the next step is to create a shadow of myself so what I could do is I can
actually duplicate this layer so if I control click I can hit duplicate and we
can just call it layer 1 copy that’s fine and then I’m going to go up to
image and go to adjustments exposure and just completely reduce the exposure
until I’m black and this is going to be the shadow so then let’s go ahead and
lock this lens flare so we don’t keep grabbing it so hit the lock icon so it’s
locked and then this layer is going to become the shadow so we can rotate this
down to match where the lighting is coming from from the light here and
let’s also squish it and distort it because shadows are not perfect so I’m
going to hit shift and let’s distort this make it a little bit more squished
in and let’s scale it and squish it a little bit more now the
next step is to apply a Gaussian blur on this that way it’s less of a harsh edge
let’s go up to filter blur and let’s go to Gaussian blur and let’s just add
around seven using the slider that looks good
now let’s go ahead and let’s change this to a linear burn blend mode and then
when we reduce the fill you’ll start to see it blend in with the planet if this
is normal it’s not going to have that cool burn effect so let’s change this to
linear burn and then we can adjust the fill if you click down here you can
adjust the slider until it looks a little bit more natural so that looks
good you can always adjust this fill at any time if you change your mind and you
want to make the shadow a little bit more subtle another thing that we need
to do is erase the shadow because it’s falling off of the planet so what we
need to do is zoom in and just a erase around the buildings because we still
want the shadow to fall on the building so click on the eraser tool and then
select the shadow layer and then we can start to erase the shadow off the planet so now we can zoom out and kind of look
okay what else needs to happen to make this look more realistic so I’m already
seen that the shadow still looks a little bit harsh so I’m going to reduce
the opacity just a little bit so it’s not as fully dark there I think that
looks a little bit better so now that the shadow is looking better the next
step i notice is that my feet look kind of unnatural here i’m actually wearing
black socks here so it doesn’t help in the fact that i’m not wearing shoes but
what we can do is kind of make an imprintation like i’m actually standing
in the grass here so to do that what I’m going to do is create another layer here
just by clicking on the new layer button and make sure it’s below the image of
myself and I’m going to use the paint tool here and I’m going to make the
brush by hitting ctrl click make it a little bit bigger think around 70 is
fine and make the hardness really low so that way it’s more softer on the edges
and then I’m just going to click and just gently create an imprint around my
feet here a little bit up here so that way a little bit darker between my legs
there so it looks a little bit more natural and then just around this side
so it looks a little bit better and then we can change the blend mode so from
normal let’s go ahead and see which blend mode looks better I usually just
scrub through typically overlay is pretty good soft light is good
I think soft light looks really good here and now we have a better imprint
ation going on it looks a little bit better and then what we can do is adjust
the opacity so we can grab the slider here and just make some adjustments you
can see if it’s fully black it doesn’t look that great so let’s just drag it
down to around 76% and then what we can do is play around with actual lighting
of the planet so what we’re going to use use the burn tool to do this but first
we’re going to create another layer and from edit we’re going to go up to fill
and let’s fill this at 50% grey and hit OK and now let’s change the blend mode
to overlay and then we’re going to go over to the tool bar
if you don’t see the burn tool already here you’re gonna click on the ellipsis
and from here you’re going to go down to burn tool and from here let’s control
click and let’s increase the burn tool turn around 500 and then the hardness
can be zero and then we can start to just paint over this area by clicking
and you can see how it gets a darker and because this side of the planet should
be darker than the rest we can even go up here around the buildings just to
make it darker so that way the side of the planet is less dark because the Sun
is not shining on it I think that’s looking good we can also
adjust the opacity so if we wanted to lower that so it’s not quite as dark we
can always adjust the opacity so now I think this is looking really cool I love
this effect I’m just going to go ahead and go up to file and I’m going to
export this as a quick PNG and now I can upload it to my Instagram I can just do
final tiny planet and then I would just airdrop it to my phone if this video
helped you sure to give it a big thumbs up and now I’m gonna tell you guys about
the sponsor of this video oxygen so if you guys are starting out as freelance
creatives on YouTube keeping track of your finances can be really difficult I
know for myself it was difficult to even think about okay how do I get my own
card for my own business so that way I can think about deductions and all that
tax stuff that a lot of creatives don’t even want to think about well I just
applied for a card through oxygen bank and they mailed me a card in the mail I
didn’t even have to go into a bank and they send you this nice a debit card
that you can use for all of your business expenses and you can activate
the card just through the app which is really cool and better yet oxygen has
resources to help you guys figure out when you might be ready to actually
incorporate your business and form an LLC I recently did that in the last year
and it’s been super helpful to have that separate space separate from my personal
you know expenses so I encourage you guys to
explore oxygen to see if it might be a good fit for you for starting out your
business and your entrepreneurship that you’re doing
with your own company or whatever creative business that you guys are
doing and I’ve put a link to apply to the oxygen card inside of my description
box below so that’s it for this video and I hope that you guys found it useful
and thanks again to oxygen for supporting creatives and freelancers see
you guys next time bye

Photoshop for Beginners in Urdu / Hindi | Course  | Working With Images | Lime Tech | Class 01

Photoshop for Beginners in Urdu / Hindi | Course | Working With Images | Lime Tech | Class 01


Music In the name of Allah, the Most merciful, the most beneficent. My name is “Abul Waheed” and you are watching “Lime Tech” Channel. I am working on photoshop for 10 years, And many people requested me to teach them Photoshop. So, I decided to make a course for all of you. therefore I prepared a course on photoshop,
in this(course) all things described basic level to advanced level in the simple method. After the completion of this course, you will be eligible for the job in any production house
and you can work online on any freelancing website. If some peoples of you thinking that after learning this course,
you can job in any production house then this course is definitely for you. you can watch and learn If some peoples of you thinking that after learning this course,
you can do freelancing then this course is definitely for you. you can watch and learn. and make your carier on freelancing platforms. If you thinking that photoshop is in trending, and you learn this course for this purpose
then please skip this video this course is not for you. However, if you wanted to edit your personal photo professionally then you see and learn this course
and edit your personal images professionally. If some peoples want to become a successful freelancer.
Then, I have good news for you. After completing the photoshop course,
I will prepare a course on freelancing, in which, I will tell you how to create an account,
build your profile,and how to get projects. Also, I will let you know the website i am working on,
what is my skill set, And how much I earning from?
I will show you with proof in details. Because I am doing freelancing for 8 years,
And I have great experience in freelancing, therefore I am thinking that I share my experience with you. so you can build your career in freelancing. If you are new to this channel then subscribe to our channel and press the bell icon to get latest video notifications. so let’s start our course’s first-class. Intro Music So, friends when we open photoshop, we can see this type of interface,
You will see “Create a document” option and below “Open Document ” option. If you didn’t create a document before, then you can click here and create a document.
And if you create it before then you can open it. So if you want to create a document, then you have to click on “new document” button or
you can go to file and click on a new document and create a document. To create a new document, click on “new document” we can see a window like this. there are so many presets built-in here. These are photo presets, these are different sizes of photos, And these preset of print, this for art and illustration.
In this, some web-related presets, if you design some website you can use it, for mobile applications, film, and video too. now we talk about the photo so we press on photo presets, there is some ready to use like 7×5 inch.
we select it, on the right side, here is a size mentioned width 7 inches height 5 inches.
you can go in pixels, cm, inches, and picas. And here you can set the value inches cm whatever. Below you can see the options for oriantation “portrait or landscape”.
when we click on portrait height is 7 inches and the width is 5 inches,
And if i click on landscape height and width will be changed. We will go with landscape. Along with this, you can see the art box of a checkbox.
we will explain it in the future videos an what is the benefit of it. Below You can see the resolution option if you design a web banner, header, slider anything then you fix 72 or 100 resolution. If you creating document for print media you can set it 300. In the drop-down, you can set a pixel per inch option. Below drop down you can see background colour mode. And the below option is background content,
in this option, you can see black and white and background default, you should set only default color.
we set the white background and create the document when we create we can see white background document on the screen. you can see document tab as “Untitled 1″ because we did not mention any name. therefore it is untitled 1. now we save it first, we go into ” file” and click on “save as”.
Click on your designation directory and give the name and save your required format like PSD, JPEG, PNG, we save as PSD. Because in PSD all the layers save and you can edit in future as you required. When we save our document, you can see document has been renamed. If we want to add an image then we go to “File” option and click on “Open” or use option “Place Embed”.
Click on file>Place Embed, and choose your image and place it. On the right side, you can see layers section you can see 2 layers
one of them is the background layer and the second is our embedded image. If we want to resize the image we press & hold “shift” key and drag from 1 corner and resize it.
If we didn’t press the “shift” button our image stretched and damaged its shape.
Press “Shift” button is necessary to resize the image if not perhaps our image loses its aspect ratio. After resizing we release the “Shift” button and place image anywhere as you want.
By pressing double click or click on the “Tick” option we can deselect the image selection. Now we embed one more image. If you want to move image upward or backward.
Simply go to the layer section and drag the layer and drop it under the other image. One more thing, right side on every layer is an “eye icon”.
By pressing the icon you can hide and visible any layer. Now we learn about how can I open a document.
We go to File>Open, Select an image and click “open” the image will open as a document. Now you can see two tabs on top. By pressing any tab you can switch the document. Now we open another image and you can see three tabs on top.
By pressing any tab you can switch the document.
First, Second, Third. Now you can see the first document we made there is a white background layer and two images layers.
And if we go to second document there is no white background layer.
Same with third document. it shows that the first tab document we create our self with white background and two images layer by layer.
Other two document do not have white background because we directly open image as a document. We can see three tabs now. If we want to close any document, you can see a cross sign.
Click on it our document will be closed. One more thing, When we close this document which contains three layers, a dialogue box will appear from photoshop,
which indicate us to save the document before closing it.
Why this box appears because we make 2 changes in this and haven’t saved it. If we press on “yes” document will saved,
And if we press “No” then the document will not be saved but will be closed. If we press the “Cancel” document remain open in Photoshop.
We press the “Cancel”. Now we can see 2nd tab has a cross sign but, If you notice that first document have a little star sign.
Star sign indicate us that our document is not saved. If we save it, you see star icon disappeared. Now we press the “close” button to close the document. If we make any changes on the image you will see little star icon appear again
because we make a change and not saved it. 2nd method of closing the document, go to “File” and click on “Close”. In this video, we learned about how to create a document, open, Save and close.
My Next video will be about the Interface of photoshop. How many tools in it and how it works. So let’s meet in our next video.
Allah Hafiz

Export Multiple Images as PDF | Photoshop Tutorial

Export Multiple Images as PDF | Photoshop Tutorial


Hello there.! Welcome back to another
Photoshop Tutorial.. Today I’m gonna show you how to export images as PDF in
Adobe Photoshop.. as the first step go to File and choose Automate.. then select PDF
Presentation.. under source files you’ll be able to see a check box like this.. it’ll add all the images that you’re currently working on.. If you like to add
additional images click on Browse and select it.. the PDF will be generated in
the order as it is listed.. so, you can change the order by drag-and-drop.. In case, if you need to delete one of the added files, Remove button here will do the job.. Duplicate will be useful in
making an additional copy of the file.. Now, there are two options for the output..
Multi-page will create a normal PDF file and presentation will create a file
that’s ideal for projections.. If you choose presentation some additional
settings will be visible.. you can change the duration between slides.. there is a
loop checkbox to make a presentation repetitive.. and there are plenty of
transitions too.. if you are ready with the settings click Save..
choose destination and give a name to the file.. Now, it’s time to select one of the
PDF presets.. Adobe PDF presets are designed to
maintain the quality of the file.. you can also try with the various compression settings.. When you’re satisfied, click on the Save
PDF… so, it’s asking permission to enter into Full Screen mode..
let’s give it.. Now, let’s export it as a multi-page document and see how it works..
I’m gonna speed up things for you.. OK, let’s open the file and check it.. And that’s all guys.. thanks for watching..
if you have any doubts regarding this comment it below and I’ll see you next time.. goodbye..!!

SHARPEN IMAGES and REDUCE NOISE in Adobe LIGHTROOM. Tutorial for wildlife and nature photographers.

SHARPEN IMAGES and REDUCE NOISE in Adobe LIGHTROOM. Tutorial for wildlife and nature photographers.


Hi! My name is Charl. I am with Pangolin
Photo Safaris. Today I would like to talk to you about how I sharpen my images
and do my noise reduction in Lightroom. If you like our content, please don’t
forget to subscribe, and press the bell button to be notified about our next video. Okay, so let’s get started… I’ve selected this beautiful young leopard
I took in Botswana. So I am going to just indicate
how I do my noise reduction and sharpening. If you look at my readings – the settings – you can see that I was shooting at quite high ISO – 4000 – and this is why I have a little bit of noise in the background. I am going to show you how we get rid of this noise and then do a bit of sharpening on my leopard. So, let’s start off…if you come into the detail… so I’ve already done my editing
on the picture. I am just going to show you the noise reduction and the sharpening. So let’s start with the sharpening…if you come to the column here in ‘Detail’. If you press ‘alt’ on Mac or ‘ctrl’ on
Windows – keep it in – then click on the slider… and then you can move it left and right.
If you move it to the left side you will see the image is getting quite white. All
the way will be completely white. If you move it slowly to the right, you
will see that the background becomes black. So, Lightroom applies sharpening only
where you see white. So, I am moving my slider to the right until you can only see the profile of the leopard, and some of the areas which I would like to sharpen. The amount of sharpening I would like to apply here is between 10 and 20. I don’t
want to do more than that, because I am going to apply more sharpening later,
which I’m going to show you. So that is only the amount of sharpening that I want to do on this image – on the edges. Now I am going go to my ‘Adjustment Brush’. On the brush you will see sharpening. I don’t want to do sharpening
now. We are going click on here, and go to my texture slider. So I am going
go on minus on my slider, to make it nice and soft in the background So here is my brush of colour in the background. To maybe make it a little bit easier and to see where you’ve brushed. Not by pressing ‘o’ for overlay. Or, you can underneath here your show
selected mask overlay. Click on it, and then you can also activate it or deactivate it. So, I am just going to quickly brush the background. This is of course
just for demonstration purposes, so this will be quite quick. You can maybe
just take a little more time to do a better job. Also, make sure when you apply,
or work with the brush, to make sure in this case that your ‘Auto Mask’ is on. Got to do the feather as well a little
bit – bigger here. So auto masking will help if there’s a bit of contrast between your subject in the background. That will help selecting the edges much easier. If it goes over, it’s not a problem. I am going to show you now how we can just get rid of that. So, this is just quickly. If you press in ‘alt’ again, you can see on the brush there now a +. If I press it in or keep it in as a – it will go to + again. So, I am going to keep it in, and
then just erase the edges. There where you can see the pinkish colour/reddish colour where I went over on the leopard to apply the texture or my noise
reduction. There we go. Maybe just do this area a little bit
more. Here on the top of ear I can still see a little bit of pink. Let’s erase that. I am going to press ‘o’ again to get back to the main image. So my ‘Texture’ is 80. If you zoom in you can see it is going soft. I will also apply a little bit of noise on this side – noise reduction on a noise slider – going +. Now you can see it is getting really nice and smooth…when I zoom in. So, for the noise, I like between 70 and 80. Of course you can go a lot further if you want. I like just around 70% to 80% percent…that’s where I like to go. To go quickly to sharpening. How I do my
sharpening? I will go to ‘New’. Click on ‘Texture’ and select ‘Sharpness’. My sharpness is about 60 at the moment. I will select 60 as well. I like to use
around 60 to 70. Just colour in the Leopard. Again pressing ‘o’ for overlay, and it
will show you exactly where you have done your masking. Let’s go over the
ears as well. There we go. There as well. Press ‘o’ to see where it is. There we go. You can of course – if you like to apply more – you can just go to ‘New’ and maybe apply 30 in this case. I would just like to sharpen the eyes a little bit more. There we go. Okay, I am just gonna show you quickly the before and after. On the left side is before, and the right side is after. I am gonna click here so that you can see the noise. Quite a big difference between left and right. Let’s see the
sharpening. You can also see the before and after.. on the sharpening. I am going to quickly show you another image that I have already edited…. with a high ISO. So, in this image, you can see that my ISO is quite high – 40,000. I know this is not really an ISO that is recommended, and what we shoot, but just to show you in this image with high ISO, what can be done. I am going quickly zoom in on the background, so you can see where I
applied the same method. I am going to go to the before and after, so you can see quickly how different it is before and after, just by brushing out the background with
the texture slider, if you go to the negative side. So here is the before and
after. So, this is the way I do it. I hope this helped you? Maybe you can try on some of your images, and see if it makes it different for you. I hope these tips that I gave you, will help you in your Lightroom. If you have any questions, please leave them in comments below… and don’t forget to subscribe! Thank you for watching

Photoshop Tutorial 4: How To Save An Image

Photoshop Tutorial 4: How To Save An Image


You’ve created your brilliant advert. How do you export it so you can use it in social media? Firstly, you go to the File Menu and choose ‘Export’ Then you select ‘Save for Web’ Now, you have some options to choose from. We want this to be a ‘JPEG’. For ‘Image Quality’ always use 100% for social media. Nowadays, ‘Optimized Encoding’ is standard because most everyone is on broadband. Convert to ‘sRGB’ – these are “Web Safe Colours”. Because, online is always RGB. The image size is 1080 pixels, because that’s the size we made our canvas. 1080 is the perfect size for social media! And ‘Save’. That’s it, you’re done. The world of social media advertising is now your plaything. So, go play. Leave a comment, like and subscribe. Then you too can join our tribe.

How to scan photos 2019 (Photoshop Tutorial)

How to scan photos 2019 (Photoshop Tutorial)


Learn how to scan photos in Photoshop more precisely how to cut photos and straighten them I have 2 ways to do that. Give them a try The first one is an automated one. Go to file Automate ->crop and straighten photos This is not ok so we just close it Go to image->image rotation for both of them And that’s it Now it’s time for the second method Because in my scan I have 2 photos I will duplicate this layer 2 times go to image->image rotation make a rectangle with the perspective crop tool and now drag the points to the corners the way you do now repeat the step for the second picture if you just watch me you will get the steps now I just make some adjustments I post videos every friday If this video helped you subscribe to see more every week

How To Make an Anaglyph 3D Image in Photoshop That Really Works!

How To Make an Anaglyph 3D Image in Photoshop That Really Works!


Hello
everyone this is Chris from Spoon Graphics back with another video tutorial for Adobe
Photoshop. Today we’re going to have some fun creating
a retro 3D effect that really works. If you cast your mind back to the 3D movies, comics
and posters from your childhood, you’ll remember those comedic glasses with red and blue lenses
that bring the effect to life. Stereoscopy is the scientific term behind how these images
work. By overlapping two images using the red and blue channels, it produces an anaglyph
3D image that jumps out from the screen when viewed with colour filtered specs. But before we get started, a big thank you
to Envato Elements for sponsoring this video… In order to follow along with today’s tutorial
and to actually see the result, you’re going to need a pair of red and blue 3D glasses
yourself. You can pick up these cardboard framed 3D glasses from eBay pretty cheap. By the way, if you like the tash I’m currently
rocking for Movember, give this video a thumbs up and I’ll match the number of likes in a
donation to Prostate Cancer UK at the end of the month. In this tutorial I’ll show you two techniques
you can use to create your anaglyph 3D image. The first method uses two separate images
taken from offset cameras, the second is a Photoshop process that allows you to manually
create the effect from a single image. The first technique for creating a retro anaglyph
3D image is to use a stereo pair of photographs. These pictures are produced by 2 cameras strapped
together at a set distance apart, or a single camera moved sideways on a tripod. What you
get is two images from different angles, much like how our eyes work to perceive depth.
If you focus on something, then close one eye, you’ll see the scene appears to shift. You can find some ready-made stereo pairs
like this picture of “A scene of Verona, Italy” from Shutterstock, or produce your own by
capturing two offset photographs. The images in this stereo pair picture are
merged into one file. Turn on Snap from the View menu to place a guide in the centre,
then make a selection of the first image with the marquee tool. Press CMD, or CTRL on Windows, and X to Cut,
then use the Crop tool to trim the canvas down to size. Press CMD+V to Paste the two
images one on top of the other. If you toggle the layer on and off you can
see the difference in the angle of the shot. Rename the layers to Left and Right. Double click the Left layer to begin converting
the image into a 3D anaglyph. Uncheck the Red channel, then click ok. Double click the Right layer and uncheck both
the Green and Blue channels. Now it’s time to put on your 3D specs to immediately
see the effect come to life. These things aren’t exactly an every day fashion
accessory so hardly anyone watching this video for the first time will be able to see the
result, so be sure to order yourself some glasses and watch again soon! While wearing your specs, you can make some
minor tweaks to fix any double vision, or alter the focal point. Turn off Snap under
the View menu to give finer control. Press CMD+T to Transform then move the image
horizontally to find the spot where a certain part of the two images perfectly aligns. Once you’ve done so, there will be a strip
along the edge which will need Cropping out. The second technique allows you to produce
the 3D effect from just a single image. In order to create the offset version that makes
the 3D effect work, we’ll use the Displace filter to shift the image in our manually
defined areas. Choose an image with a scene full of elements
in both the foreground and background. Simple landscapes are great because the layers of
mountains are easy to trace. Create a new layer and select the Lasso, or
Pen tool. We’ll need to trace around all the elements of the scene according to their depth. The boat is the closest object in this photo,
so trace around its outline. Fill the selection with white by pressing the CMD+Backspace shortcut.
All subsequent objects will be filled with darker and darker shades until the parts of
the image in the far distance are filled with black. Activate the background layer and create a
new layer above it, and below the white filled layer. The next portion of this scene which is slightly
further away is the lake. Make a selection with the lasso tool. Edit the foreground colour and move the picker
downwards slightly to a light grey. Press ALT+Backspace to fill the selection with this
foreground colour. It’s also possible to make the depth gradually
change by applying a gradual change in shade. Select the Burn tool and set the Range to
Highlights at 50% and set the brush to a soft tip. Paint across the upper part of the lake’s
grey layer to change the fill from light to dark as it recedes into the distance. Create another new layer at the bottom of
the layer stack and draw a selection around the hills in the midground. Fill this selection
with a grey that’s slightly darker than the darkest grey in the lake’s gradient. The forest on the opposite side can be quickly
selected with the Magic Wand tool. Since this part of the scene is also in the midground,
fill the selection with the same shade of grey. Continue adding a new layer at the bottom
of the stack and make a selection of the next elements in the distance. Make the fill darker
each time in the colour picker. Finally the farthest part of the scene is
the sky that remains in the background. Fill this area with pure black to complete the
depth map. Use the shortcuts CMD+A to Select All, then
go to Edit>Copy Merged. Click the top layer, then paste in the merged copy of all the grayscale
layers. To make the displacement map smoothly distort
the image, add a gaussian blur filter of around 10px. Go to File>Save As and save a copy of this
grayscale file as a PSD with a recognisable name. All the grayscale layers can now be grouped
and hidden as they’re no longer required. To apply the depth map, begin by making a
duplicate of the image by dragging it onto the new layer icon. Next, go to Filter>Distort>Displace. In
the settings remove any Vertical Scaling so the image is only distorted horizontally.
Click OK and locate the recently saved PSD file. Toggle off the layer to see the slight differences
between the two layers, just like the stereo pair of images that were sourced from two
camera shots, the elements within this picture are now offset. Rename the layers to Left and Right, then
double click them to alter the channels settings. Disable the Red channel on the Left layer,
and disable the Green and Blue channels on the Right layer. Pop on your 3D glasses again to see the result.
Once again the top image can be nudged horizontally to help eliminate any double vision you might
be experiencing. The lighter the grey of the depth map, the
less the image is offset, whereas the darker areas are offset the most, which makes them
recede and appear far away within the 3D effect. As a final touch, you can make the image black
and white to give it more of a retro 3D anaglyph appearance as seen on old comics and posters.
With each layer selected in turn, go to Image>Adjustment>Desaturate. The final result is a magical 3D effect that
really works, as long as you have a pair of retro 3D specs. I used to have these kinds
of anaglyph dinosaur posters all over my wall as a kid, so it’s great fun being able to
reproduce the effect myself all these years later. If you enjoyed this video, be sure to subscribe
to the Spoon Graphics YouTube Channel to be the first to see my upcoming content. Head
over to my Spoon Graphics website to grab yourself some free goodies, otherwise thank
you very much for watching, and I’ll see you in the next one.