How to timelapse professionally

How to timelapse professionally

Today I’m going to teach you how to do a time lapse professionally So here’s the thing anyone can do a time lapse the problem is can you do a time lapse Correctly, my name is noe and I sell time lapse professionally to TV stations and movies I’ve even been on National Geographic and I think I am pretty qualified to teach you guys how to create time-lapse Professionally now, let’s get one thing out of the way first first of all there’s two different kinds of time lapse one is made by speeding up the video and To be honest, it doesn’t look so good. I mean it’s it’s an easy way to do it and anyone can do it, but actually The time lapse itself does not look very professional so what we’re going to be doing today is we’re going to be shooting stills and Turning that into a time lapse because stills you can actually manipulate many factors It looks a lot smoother and in post-production, you can actually look make a look much much better. So Usually gear is not so important when it comes to photography when it comes to time lapse it is and can be quite important especially if you want a professional Looking time lapse most importantly you’re going to need a tripod. That should be a given in any photographers arsenal You’re going to need an intervalometer now these costs anywhere from ten to twenty dollars You can get them on Amazon or Ebay or pretty much any photo store different camera brands have different Intervalometer some cameras don’t need an intervalometer I like I know Sony cameras usually have an inbuilt intervalometer, but Canon sells them separately. So depending on your camera brand you might have to buy an intervalometer or you might not Next you’re going to need and most important you’re gonna need a camera of some sort whether it be a DSLR or a mirrorless camera It’s actually easier to do with a mirrorless camera than a DSLR But I’m going to go over the differences and you’re going to need And the filter depending on the time of the day that you’re shooting now the reason you need an ND filter is because when I look at time-lapse footage either it’s very choppy and amateurish I mean see people just kind of flying in and out of the frame or it can be very smooth and it just it just flows very Very nicely it’s hard to explain but you can see it very clearly when you shoot with an ND filter, you can use lower shutter speeds during the daytime, but if you shoot with a faster shutter speed without an ND filter You’re going to be having very choppy footage and maybe for you guys. You don’t know the difference but me as professional I notice this right away, so Please get an ND filter depending on the time of the day. If you’re shooting a night. You won’t really need it But if you’re shooting in the daytime, you will definitely need an ND filter for a professional-looking time lapse So let’s go back to talking about gear and this is actually very important because when we do time lapse, there’s this phenomenon called flicker so most amateur time lapses don’t notice this but it stands out like Day and night to me usually when I saw time lapse two movie stations if there is some sort of flicker in the footage, they will not accept it and Here is how timelapse flicker is caused When you use when you create a time lapse with a DSLR for example what happens is that every time that the camera takes a picture the aperture opens up so you can see through the mirror and then it will close down To take the picture Now you would think that every time it takes a picture. It has the exactly exact same F-stop, for example, you shouldn’t have f/8 it always closes to f/8 But that is not exactly correct because there’s very very small fluctuations between each picture photo So what happens is when you’re doing a time-lapse with a DSLR camera? Sometimes one picture is just a little little bit brighter or a little bit Darker than the previous picture and when you put this time-lapse together you get flicker in your footage now I know most of you will know and probably won’t care. But if you want how to time-lapse correctly Professionally you will care now You might ask yourself. How can I get rid of? timelapse tlicker now you can use software to get rid of flicker, but actually that doesn’t always work and the software is Expensive there’s two ways to get rid of time lapse flicker completely first method is to Shoot with a manual lens. So if you use those old manual lenses, they don’t have electronic contacts and When you take a picture the aperture stays the same it doesn’t change at all So there won’t be any changes in exposure between each picture That’s one of the best ways to do it The second method of preventing flicker is actually the lens twist method now. This is a little tricky and it is kind of risky But actually I’ve been doing this for years and I’ve never had a problem the way you do. The lens twist method is You’re going to have to hold down the depth of field preview button on your camera. So what that happens is The aperture is going to open up and then to prevent the aperture from closing and resetting You’re actually going to have to unscrew the lens, but you’re not gonna take off the lens You’re just trying to do it so that the electronic contacts are not touching with a camera. So when you do this The aperture stays consistent it’s not gonna open or close between shots and what that’s gonna do is going to prevent flicker now there is a third way to prevent flicker and This is not always consistent because they’re different it differs between cameras but if you’re using a mirrorless camera, I’ve noticed that most mirrorless cameras the aperture stays the same and There isn’t flicker in the footage But if you notice that your mirrorless time-lapse has flicker Then you might want to consider trying what I told you or using a manual lens next. Let’s talk about timelapse Shutter speed so you have your camera ready? And people always ask Should I shoot time lapse in aperture priority mode and as a professional I tell you know Don’t shoot in aperture priority mode. I want you to shoot time lapse in manual mode So you’re going to expose for the scene now? If you’re doing something like a sundown sunrise time lapse there are ways to change the exposure over time Manually, and I’m going to do a separate video about that But for now, let’s imagine you’re doing a regular time-lapse and you’re going to shoot in manual mode So you’re gonna set your picture you’re gonna set your exposure. However, you want it Typically you want the ISO as low as possible Depending on how much broken or not you want in the scene you’re probably going to be shooting at f/8 or higher and when it comes to the shutter speed and this is the important part you’re going to be wanting to shoot at a shutter speed of One second or somewhere around one second now This is very important because you want your picture. You want your time-lapse to flow So you want to take pictures that have a little bit of blur a little bit of movement in them? that way when you play back the time-lapse video everything just Smooths out like ebb and flow if you use a high shutter speed like one sixtieth of a second Then your time which is going to come out kind of choppy The people are going to move very unnaturally. And if you’re an amateur, you’re just gonna think wow at a time That looks great. But if you’re professional this kind of thing stands out As clear as night and day so you’re going to want to be using a low shutter speed and that’s why earlier I told you guys if you’re shooting in the daytime, you’re going to need an ND filter Now there are exceptions to this For example if you’re shooting a landscape, and there’s no people or movement directly in front of the lens then it’s okay because you’re just focusing on nature and you focusing on the clouds and The movement is so slow that you don’t really notice it however, if you’re using a time-lapse for people or for cars or for anything directly in the vicinity Then you should use an ND filter. I mean you can do the time-lapse without the ND filter But remember this is making a time lapse professionally so settings Iso 100 as low as possible aperture a fader above shutter speed should be Any word on the area of one second, so these settings are not going to be exactly correct for you? But you’re going to want a low ISO you’re going to want a shutter speed of a second or around a second for sure and Your aperture should be higher than F8, even if you’re using an Indy culture So I will leave the correct exposure to you guys But you should keep the ISO and the shutter speed at what I told you now if you’re doing clouds and stuff like that, then the shutter speed doesn’t matter so much, but if you’re doing people or Movement in front of you. You’re going to want to show you’re going to want a shutter speed above About one second. So next is the interval or How much time should you take between each picture and I’m going to give you a general? Guidelines, I mean you don’t have to do this this is just what I typically do when I’m doing a time-lapse of people of driving or of cars moving or Something in front of the lens nearby. I like to keep the interval at one second. That means I take one picture I wait one second and I take another picture and I just keep it at that if I’m doing landscapes And there’s fast-moving clouds in the sky. I typically shoot at an interval of about three seconds However, if the clouds are moving relatively slow Then I usually keep the timelapse interval at about ten seconds. So I’ll shoot a picture ten seconds. Later I’ll take another picture for sunrise or sunset I keep it anywhere between ten and fifteen seconds usually around twelve seconds and When I’m shooting stars, I keep it anywhere from 15 seconds to 30 seconds Normally, I just do about 20 seconds. That’s your time lapse calculator. so the last thing when you talk about are the frame rates because when you put your pictures into the computer You need a good frame rate if you’re doing Ten pictures per second as a video as a movie Your time lapse movie is going to be very very choppy. Actually anything under 20 seconds is going to look very choppy and amateurish I typically shoot my time lapses settings anywhere between 24 pictures per second or 30 pictures per second. It’s really up to you so that usually means I shoot about a hundred and sixty-eight pictures or Sometimes up to two hundred pictures per timelapse session that gives me at least around seven or eight seconds of time-lapse footage So now that I’ve gone over all the timelapse camera technicalities of shooting a time-lapse Let’s put it all together and I’m going to show you guys exactly how I do my time-lapse First of all, I set my tripod and I set my timelapse camera next I would compose the picture How I would like it to be now first You have to compose your picture because next we’re going to put the ND filter on our timelapse camera So after our ND filter is on the camera We have to figure out the exposure here is where you’re gonna play around with timelapse settings and try to get a perfectly balanced photo So my ISO is 100. My shutter speed should be about a second if I’m taking pictures of people and it doesn’t really matter So much if I’m taking pictures of clouds, so if you’re taking pictures of clouds You don’t need the ND filter once I have these settings set. I set my aperture to get the exposure that I need typically, it’s anywhere between f/8 or f/11 or above so once I have set my exposure I Hold down the depth of field button and I unscrew my lens so that I don’t get any flicker in my photos That’s if I’m shooting with a DSLR Sometimes I’ll use a manual lens and I don’t have to worry about flicker. But like I said if you’re using a DSLR You’re probably going to be worried about flicker So either use a manual lens or do the lens screw method Now if you’re doing if you’re using a mirrorless camera, you might not have to worry about this But it does vary between mirrorless cameras So if you notice you’re getting timelapse flicker, you might have to do either either of these So once I finish preparing my time-lapse now I set my timelapse intervals Like I said for people I usually do one second same thing for traffic and same thing for driving If I want to do fast-moving clouds, I’ll do one picture every three seconds if I’m doing slow moving clouds I’ll do one picture every 10 seconds if I’m do sunrises or sunsets I would do Anywhere between 12 and 15 seconds finally if I’m doing a time-lapse of the stars, I’ll do about 20 seconds But you can go as high as at once every 30 seconds Now next step comes timelapse post-production and I’m actually going to make a separate video about post-production also if you guys are interested in hyperlapse tutorial, I will be making Tutorials on hyperlapse videos, but this is an essential first first you need to do first You need to know how to do a time-lapse guide before you can do a hyperlapse vs timelapse. So thanks for watching this video Please like leave a comment. If you’re having any trouble any problems, let me know. I will help you And actually I have a really really really old video About how to do a time-lapse if you’re doing interested in watching it I’ll put the link below but it’s really old. The audio is bad. That’s why I remade this video and I updated it So thank you very much, and I’ll see you next time

41 thoughts on “How to timelapse professionally”

  1. Wallpapers:



  2. When you make a timelapse on sunrise or sunset, aperture & shuterspeed & iso are fixed to the all pictures,,? (Manual mode) I wonder about this matter ,,

  3. Very informative, thank you.
    Just the interval settings bother me as the sample footage shown from @9:59 looks way to choppy for me specially at the 10 sec. and 12-15 sec. examples.
    Is this a YouTube encoding problem?

  4. Amazing! Gread video, this information saves so much time and sweat. Thank you!
    What ND filter would you use on daytime?

  5. Thanks for such an informative video! Any tips for how to handle post-processing timelapses shot in RAW? I have a fairly powerful computer, but it can't seem to find an efficient way to edit the photos and compile them. What does your post-processing flow look like?

  6. Incredibly useful and very clear! Few things I knew, many others I didn't (at all!). Thanks a bunch 🙂
    PS: Your clips are gorgeous, the night scenes with the neon signs are a treat for the eyes, amazing colours, so shiny!

  7. Gran video amigo. Pero me gustaría otro donde nos enseñes como montas todas las fotos y el sofware que utilizas para crear el video resultante. Sería muy interesante ;-).

  8. Hey Noe – this is brilliant! Honestly, I would never have thought to do most of what you said, hahaha. Thanks so much for making this video – I'll definitely give it a go at some point… I do have one question; which is how do you shoot a time-lapse for a long period of time (for example, an overnight time-lapse)? My battery would give-up 2 hours into it, I'm pretty sure – so is there some kind of device that would enable the camera to stay on and continue shooting, or does that depend on the camera (over-heating issues, etc)? Thanks again – and you make some sick time-lapses 😀 Cheers 🙂 Tim.

  9. Great video, I learned a lot. But for my application, I want to time lapse my hikes with either a helmet cam, or a camera strapped to my chest. What settings/type of camera would you suggest I use? Something small and light I'd hope.

  10. Loved this video so much I've watched it at least 3 times now. 👍 I really want to get back into time-lapse again and I'm definitely biased towards my super-sharp vintage glass! I didn't even know that electronic lenses cause flicker like that.

  11. Great video! Truly appreciate the techniques and tips you teach in such a straightforward manner. Also, it's so refreshing that there are no distracting sponsor breaks. 🙏

  12. Great video, definitely learned a thing or two ;). I would be very interested in a Hyperlapse tutorial since I have no clue how to do these apart from an app on my phone.
    And regarding post processing: Do you use LRTimelapse? I think that software is insane. And not too expensive!

  13. one thing that i would add is: turn off autofocus after settimg the scene. some lenses have focus breathing and if the camera tries to focus before every frame it will make it breath

  14. Great video! Check out my new timelapse video here –

  15. About flickering matter, you haven't mentioned the electronic shutter…could it be a solution to avoid the flickering with mirrorless cameras (or with reflex cameras which have it)? I always use it during my timelapse sessions achieving the result to avoid completely the flickering 😊

  16. QUESTION – wonderful video. About the lens twist method; When I twist the lens, the camera will error a communication fault with the lens, and puts the f on 00. So that method is not really applicable, or is there something I can improve on?

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