How to Make 2D image to 3D in 3 MINUTES ! – After Effects & Volumax TUTORIAL

How to Make 2D image to 3D in 3 MINUTES ! – After Effects & Volumax TUTORIAL


Hello! In this video I’m going to show you how to achieve these nice 3d animations in After Effects especially on portraits in this video and for this I’m using a template called Volumax photo animator. You can find it on Videohive or on the link at the bottom of this video in the description. Ok so I’m going to open my template VoluMax Pro in After Effects and I’m going to import a picture and start watching how long it
takes to animate it and you’re going to see it’s gonna be super fast. I’m going
to drag and drop it in the comp and make it match here and then I’m going to go
in the other comp called displacement map and using the new 3d portrait tool
in VoluMax. Here I’m going to match a wireframe of a face you can choose
almost any angle for a portrait going from side views, bottom and almost top
views okay so now I’m going to use the distortion tool You can see this is quite simple and fun to achieve. We are pushing the 3d mesh to match on the 3d portrait on the picture. So I’m moving
the ears the eyes the nose, mouth everything… You don’t need to be super
precise in this process because volumax is going to to work nicely even with maps not super sharp. So I’m going to take a smaller brush now to do a bit of details on the mouth. So once again this is not the complete tutorial you can find in the package. This is a fast overview of the 3d portrait tool included in VoluMax. Okay so we’re going to finish with the shoulders with some large brush here I’m going to do this super fast because it’s not very important, VoluMax is going to just know that there is a volume here okay so I’m going to finish this wire
distortion and I’m going to show you the black and white depth map. I am taking off the wire mode and the depth map is showing the black and whites volume of the
object. I’m going in the main comp of VoluMax and I’m simply going to move the null object here and I’m going to see that the 3d effect is
working really nicely ! I’m gonna add some dirt so you can see some dirt here. Small adjustments on the relax and boost Once again you can see all this in the full tutorials included. I’m going to put a keyframe at the beginning and a keyframe at the end on a left right camera pan. And that’s it ! We did this in 3 minutes.
I’m going to take a look to the preview. Okay this is nice ! So it took 3 minutes to do this and you can see the final result with some text. Thank you for watching this very fast tutorial of the 3D Portrait Tool. You can take a look to my channel to see some other templates and some tutorials. Thank you, bye !

Google Earth’s Incredible 3D Imagery, Explained


[MUSIC PLAYING] NAT: Almost 50
years ago, Apollo 8 left Earth for the moon. While in orbit,
astronaut Bill Anders decided to take an
unexpected photo. BILL ANDERS: Oh, my god, look
at that picture over there. There’s the earth coming up. Wow, is that pretty. SPEAKER: Hey, don’t take that. It’s not scheduled. Later named
“Earthrise,” the photo captured our planet in
a way that it had never been seen before. And while the 240,000-mile trip
to get to that vantage point was, I’m sure, amazing– I mean, if you ever get
that offer, take it– if you don’t have a spaceship
and three days to spare, lucky for you,
all you need to do is click a link to get
almost the same view in about a second. [MUSIC PLAYING] This is the Earth, all 196.9
million square miles of it. GOPAL: Google Maps is
for finding your way. Google Earth is
about getting lost. Google Earth is the
biggest repository of geo-imagery, the most
photorealistic digital version of our planet. We’re trying to
create a mirror world so people can go anywhere. NAT: From
mountains, to cities, to the bottom of the ocean. Google Earth has been around
for about the last 10 years. And just like our Earth, it’s
been evolving over this time. The imagery has been
getting better and better. I was really curious to know
how is Google Earth created? How many images
actually make it up? And where do they come from? Last year, together with Lo,
I met up with Gopal and Kevin to find out. GOPAL: So how do we
build Google Earth? The way it starts
is we look at places that we want to
collect in imagery, and then we collect it through
a variety of different ways. One is satellites. And satellites give
you the global views. And that’s all 2D imagery
that’s wrapped around the globe. When you get closer
to the ground, we have 3D data that
we collect from planes. NAT: Yes, you
heard right– planes. I’d always assumed that
every overhead photo of the Earth I’d ever seen
was taken by a satellite. But I learned creating
3D imagery requires special conditions. So Google flies planes or, as
I now like to think of them, street view cars with wings. LO: What are some of the
challenges that you guys have? KEVIN: The biggest
challenge in doing something like this is weather. Our preference is always
to have clear skies. GOPAL: It took us a really
long time to get London, because we had to fly
over London a lot, before we got a fully
cloud-free image of London. KEVIN: Come on in. LO: Thanks. NAT: Kevin told us that a typical
flight to take photos is around five hours, except
the planes aren’t going across the country, they’re
making little zigzags over the same area. KEVIN: So it’s north,
and turn south. It’s sort of like
mowing the lawn. NAT: This pattern
helps the photos overlap. And multiple cameras
help capture a place from different angles. KEVIN: The planes have
five different cameras– one looking down, and
forward, back, left and right. NAT: In my
mind, I’m picturing, like, photograph, photograph,
photograph, photograph. KEVIN: Yep. NAT: And then, something
puts them all together. Something called an algorithm? KEVIN: Photogrammetry, yeah. GOPAL: Which is
just a fancy word for taking all of this imagery
that we collect from the plane and constructing a 3D model. NAT: The first step
to creating a place in 3D is a little bit
of photo editing. GOPAL: So all the
imagery is prepped. That would be removing
clouds, removing haze, color correcting. You’ll actually see
that a lot of the cities don’t even have cars in them. We actually take the
time to extract those. NAT: Then the
3D science begins. KEVIN: The big
breakthrough that’s happened in the last few years
has been the introduction of computer vision. The computer looks for
features within the overlapping images that are the same. We use a special
GPS antenna that allows us to know
where that camera was, so we know roughly where things
were taken and at what angle. NAT: And this allows
them to create a depth map. GOPAL: And that’s just our
understanding of how far the things are from the camera. And we take all of
these various depth maps from the different cameras,
stitch those together in what’s called a
mesh, which is basically a big 3D reconstruction of
the place, and we texture it. And texture is applying
the photography that we took to the sides
of these 3D buildings. It’s almost like taking pieces
of paper and cutting them up. You can actually extract
the edges of something, and then stitch those
together, and then understand what that shape might be. And organic shapes are
what’s hard to render. It gets even more
complicated when you’re talking about
trees, because trees have branches and leaves. And often, you might
see them as a lollipop, because that’s as
good as we can get. But we’re getting better at
modeling those organic shapes. We did a collect of
Yosemite National Park. And we were able
to actually capture that in really high fidelity,
with all the different bends that a rock face might have. NAT: Do you know how
many different images make up what I see as Google Earth? GOPAL: Yeah. It’s probably on the
orders of tens of millions. One interesting stat is to look
at what we call Pretty Earth. And this is the global view. So we have a full,
seamless image. And that comes from about
700,000 scenes from Landsat. And what we’re doing
is we’re finding the best pixel from each. So if you look at Google Earth,
it’s springtime everywhere. NA: To be precise, a
800-billion-pixel spring globe, which is so big, if you wanted
to print that out on your home printer, you would need
to find a piece of paper the size of a city block. GOPAL: If you took
a single computer, it would take 60
years to process that. NAT: And you can just
keep multiplying this times all the different
levels of zoom that exist in Google Earth,
which are over 20. So even though using Earth
feels like one seamless world that you’re just
zipping around, it’s really more like
you’re traveling through a series
of Russian dolls, all made up of puzzle pieces. LO: I think
everybody else wants to know, how often
do the images get updated? It’s like the
number one question. GOPAL: We try to update
it as often as possible. The image all the
way from space, when you’re looking
at the whole globe, we try to update that maybe
once every couple of years. As you start to dive in,
we update that imagery more and more frequently. So for big city populations,
it’ll be under a year. What that allows
you to do is look at how the planet has
changed over time. And we use this product,
called Earth Engine, that allows you to look
at all of this data and, using computer vision, draw
out insights from the things that are changing. So we can track
deforestation in the Amazon, because we can see how the
trees are shrinking and growing. And then, from that, we can
generate a heat map of the most logged places on the planet. We can also do that with fishing
and see the most overfished areas. Think about it as a health
monitor for the planet. Watching these cycles
happen on the planet, you realize that this
is a living thing. And the product we’re building
has to be a living thing to reflect that. It’s not a static planet. It is fully alive
at a macro scale. And that is very eye-opening,
when you’re actually watching the things change
right in front of your eyes, when you have that
perspective to see that. NAT: Thanks for watching. And if you haven’t played
with Google Earth recently, I highly recommend this new
feature they just launched called, I’m Feeling Lucky. You roll the dice, and
then it teleports you to a random spot in the world. Also, to give you a
heads-up, in the coming weeks we’ll be diving deep into VR,
including Google Earth VR. So there’s that to
look forward to. OK, that’s all from me. Bye. [MUSIC PLAYING]

Fuji Guys – FUJIFILM XP140 – Top Features

Fuji Guys – FUJIFILM XP140 – Top Features


Welcome back to the Fuji Guys channel
my name is Gord. It doesn’t often snow here in Western Canada, but when it does,
that’s a great day to be able to take along a Finepix XP140. In addition to
being waterproof to 25m under water, it’s also great for up to -10
degrees centigrade. It’s also drop proof and dust proof. So
in this video I’m going to first go inside and warm up and then I’m going to
take a look at some of the top features of this camera. So if that really
interests you by all means keep on watching. One thing that makes taking
photos with the XP140 real easy is the Auto SR mode or automatic Scene
Recognition. The camera will analyze the scene and choose one of 58 different
scene positions this optimizes the settings for that particular scene. If
you have people in your picture then the subjects eyes will be in proper focus
every time. When you first power the camera on and it’s in the Auto SR+ mode, you have the option then of having subject tracking. If you have faces in your photo
pushing that button each time we’ll alternate and rotate through the various
people that are in the picture that point you can get exactly the face
that you want to be in proper focus. If there’s no faces in the photo what
happens is when you lock on the subject no matter where your subject ends up
going through the frame the camera will automatically stay with it and track the
focus directly on to that main subject. There are other modes that you can use
in addition to Auto SR. When you push the menu button you can go into shooting
mode and from there you have a choice of standard program, multiple exposures some
creative filters in there as well as scene positions like sport or landscape
or nigh. Make your choice hit the menu button and now you’re ready to take
photos again. The XP140 also has face and eye detection. This helps to improve
portraits. Means people’s faces will always be a nice sharp focus, and there’s
a few options you have within there. When I power on the camera,
because I know I’m going to be taking a picture of a portrait of someone I’m
going to under the portrait mode. So I push the menu button and then shooting
mode, I choose portrait from there now I’ve got my choice of whether or not I
want to have the face or the eyes in focus and then which one. So I push
the menu button again and then I go drop it down to AF/MF setting and then move
over to face detection and eye detection settings. From there you have a choice of
the face detection is on but the eye detection is turned off. It doesn’t
matter whether it’s one or the other then you can have it where it’s
automatic and the camera will decide whichever is closer of the two eyes to
the camera it will focus on that one. Then if you want you can purposely make
it so it’s only they pick the right eye or only gonna make the left eye. When
you’re in certain modes you’ll notice that the FACE ON/OFF is disabled. This
is because normally when you’re taking pictures of people you want to have the
face in nice sharp focus. If you have the scene position set to landscape for example you won’t have eye or face detection enabled and at
which point FACE OFF and EYE OFF will be enabled on the menu screen. Once
you’ve made your choice hit the menu button go back and take your great
portrait photo. The XP140 offers seamless Bluetooth with Wi-Fi
connections so you can very quickly and easily transfer images from your camera
to your smart device as well as transfer geo-tagging information from your smart
device over to your camera. When you first power the camera on it walks you
through the steps. If you miss that or wanted to re-pair another device you
go into the menu setting and then you go down to the bottom part where it talks
about connection setting on page 2 of the setup menu and then you have the
choice for your Bluetooth settings. Go into here and you want to set pairing
registration. If you don’t already have the free Camera Remote App installed on
your smartphone there’s an QR code on the back of the camera you can scan that and
it the smartphone will automatically take you to the correct location. The
smartphone app is due for an upgrade about the same time that the XP140
becomes available so what you see on my screen might be a little different than
what at the app actually looks like. So start the app on my phone and now I want
to choose pairing registration and then the camera will do a little bit of
communicating. I see my camera listed on my smart device I tap on that and then
it’s going to do some further communication and we’ve got it connected.
On the back of the my camera now it will ask whether I want to set the date
and time from my smart phone. I always like to say yes. The reason for that is
now when I’m traveling the camera will
automatically update the time from whatever time my smartphone has. Let’s
take a look at some of the options we have within the Bluetooth menu on the
camera. So again going into the connection settings side and then
Bluetooth settings we can, if we want, we can delete that pairing registration you
can actually have up to five different, sorry 8 different pairing
registrations per the phone so you can have eight different devices all
connected. You have to choose which device you have connected up at the same
time if you ever lose your device or you want to delete it from the list you can
delete it from here. You can turn the Bluetooth on and off if you want to and
you can have this auto image tagging and you can have it where it’s set to
automatically tagged the image to be transferred over to your smartphone. What
I like to have instead is the seamless transfer and what that does is it will
automatically as soon as I take a photo transfer the image over to my smartphone.
So let’s turn that on for the time being and then I also have the smartphone sync
setting on the second page and what that enables me to do is to set the date and
time of my phone over to my camera if I want to, or if I want I can have the
location transferred over, or my favorite choice, is to have location and time. At
that point every five minutes or so the camera using, Bluetooth technology,
for low power will automatically update the location as well as the time.
This is great when I’m traveling, allowing me to be able to know exactly
where my photos were taken as far as which waterfall or which fountain or
which museum I was in. So let’s go back and take a photo of my friend here and
over on my camera on my smart phone rather I have a few different options
within there. I can have a remote release when I push the trigger button it will
automatically take a photo. I also have the option for remote control after a
few seconds it will populate the information through here the first time
around. I do have to connect it up to allow it to be able to talk to the
network. On my camera now the first time out it wants to be able to connect I
just want to make sure that I’m talking to the right device. I don’t my devices don’t get pirated Now on my screen I can actually see all the
different things live view and I can control the camera from my device and
take photos from my device. If I want then I can actually push
playback and now I’ve got all these images that are currently on the camera
and I can pull them over one at a time or I can select all of them and import
all of them. I have a few controls on my smart phone as well things like if I wanted to I can start recording a movie. So those are some of
the different options you have using the Bluetooth and the free remote to be able
to connect up to your camera and talk directly to your camera. the XP140 features image stabilization. It’s based on the sensor and what that does is
helps to counteract if ever your hands are shaking or if by chance you’re
taking to take a photo in the wind and you’re blowing ever so slightly and
there’s a few different options you have within there as far as the different
types of settings for image stabilization. If you push the menu
button and go to the second screen down at the bottom is where you’ll see image
stabilization mode from here you have a few choices including continuous and shooting. What continuous is the image stabilization will always
be on so even when you’re looking at the image, the image stabilization is
active. If you choose shooting it’s just when you press the shutter button when
the image stabilization kicks in. There’s also OFF depending on the setting scene
mode that you happen to have the camera in. Why would you want to turn image
stabilization off well if ever you have the camera mounted directly onto
something that’s very stable you want to turn that off. Otherwise the camera will
go looking for movement and inadvertently create a little bit of a
feedback loop. You wouldn’t want that to happen. The camera also has a five times optical zoom. It starts at 28mm which
is a fairly wide angle which allows you to take landscape shots. There’s a five
times zoom so when you press the T button or telephoto, that will zoom
in more and more on your subject. The W makes it more wide-angle. Up on
the top left hand corner you can see a scale as far as where you are on the
within the zoom range. There’s also an intelligent digital zoom you need to
enable that first be able to be able to use the extra zoom power on
camera and that’s located on the third screen of the shooting menu. You need to
turn that on. Once you’ve turned that on you’ll notice up in the top left-hand
corner of your screen, your zoom area now has a blue as well as a
clear or black area and so what happens is you zoom first where the entire zoo
optical range. You need to let your finger off of the T button and then you
can push it again to be able to get into the additional digital zoom within there.
When you’re choosing the wide-angle again you need to let go of the W button
first to be able to zoom out through the entire range. So that offers
you a really nice wide range of shooting options when you’re looking at zooming
on your XP140. The XP140 can record movies including up to 4k at 15 frames
per second. Full HD at up to 60 frames per second or even 720p. There’s also the
option in full HD or at 720p of square movies. Kind of fun for Instagram. There’s
a few choices you have within there to record a movie all you have to do is
push on the very top button there’s a dedicated movie record button. Press it once to start press it a second time to stop. Let’s take a look at setting up the
various menu options when it comes to movies. Pressing the menu button going to
the shooting menu to the second page is where you’ll find the movie setup. The
first top line is you’ll see the movie mode. This is the resolution and the
aspect ratio. Whether you wanted to have it in Full HD at 16 by 9 or square at
one to one. After that when you make your choice you can then go to full
high-speed recording. I’ll come back to that in just a moment. There’s also the
focus mode depending on the mode you have the camera set up to you’ll have
choices in here. If you have it set to scene recognition it will automatically
figure out the appropriate focus mode to be in but otherwise you have a choice of
either continuous AF or single AF. There’s also the wind filter, if you are
in windy outdoor situations you probably want to turn that on. That helps to cut
down on the wind effect that you sometimes hear in microphones. Going back to high-speed video modes you can record up to four times high-speed movies so
when you play them back they’re up to four times slower than they normally
would be. You first have to turn that on in order to start the high-speed movie,
but let’s go back to our standard movie. Once I made my choices I just hit the
DISP/Back button. Go back, press the video button on the top of the camera to
start the recording. Press it again to stop. Easy as that. The XP140 features an
interval timer and you can create, in camera, resulting movies from those
series of images. There’s a few choices you have in there as far as the
resolution you can record it in. 4k at 15 frames per second, Full HD at up to 60
frames per second, from the images that you capture in the camera. There’s a
couple steps you need to do to be able to make that happen. First is you go into the menu and you go into the second page where there’s the
time-lapse movie mode. Here’s where you would choose what the resulting
resolution of the movie will be beforehand. So let’s choose from this
instance 1080p at 59.94. I know and go into the interval timer shooting mode
and here is where I want to choose what the interval is between each image
capture. If the image captures are more than a couple of seconds, the camera will
power down in between the various exposures. This helps to save battery
power. Just before it’s ready to capture the next image, power back up
again capture the image and then go back into power saving mode. So in this
particular case I’m going to just choose a couple seconds just for
demonstration purposes. So I’m going to choose five seconds in between allowing
me to move my little friend here. Then there’s the number of times I need to
choose. I need to choose how many times the camera will take pictures that’s for this instance. Let’s take 10 images and then I want to
choose and then I hit OK and I choose whether I just want to save a series of
still images. These are the full resolution images or if I want the
camera to create a time-lapse movie from within there. Let’s create a time-lapse
movie within there, I hit OK and whether I want to start it now or whether I want
to start it in a few minutes or an hour or two later on from now. I can start up
to 24 hours later than when I start. I push the shutter button to start things
happening. Let’s set it to zero so we’re all ready to go, let me take my first
shot I’m gonna move my little friend a little bit just so we capture some nice
images here. So I am going capture a total of 10 images. Each time around I’m going to
move him ever so slightly and then I’m gonna bring my other
little friend in here and bring him in so he starts to show up. The camera does
a countdown and also account up as far as how many images it’s captured
each time around. Couple more to go here It’s now captured all the images and
it’s doing a little bit of processing work to be able to put all that together again. Now when I have my resulting movie it’s a captured image of all the
different things in there. Again if you’re going to want to have a
time-lapse movie you probably want to have a lower frame rate the reason being
when you have a lower frame rate it won’t playback nearly as jumpy or as
quickly if you are going to go with the higher frame rates you want to have
either a little bit less movement or a lot more movement in between each one
otherwise it doesn’t quite look quite proper. It might take a little bit of
experimenting to you for you to be able to get the various settings to make sure
you’ve got the right frame rate, as far asthe right interval, but
it can be a lot of fun. One thing we do recommend whenever you’re going to be
doing interval shooting put it on a tripod or put it on something solid so you don’t inadvertently have some camera movement within there. That’s how you can quickly and fairly easily make interval
time movies that are quite a bit of fun with your XP140. The XP140 has a couple of different burst or continuous modes this is great for capturing action like
people jumping off diving boards or jumping over ski hills. You can capture up to
15 frames per second if you want. You can capture up to 10 frames per second at
full resolution or capture up to 15 frames per second in 4k resolution. The
resulting images are about 8 megapixels. Which still will print up very nicely as
well as show on your screens. Here’s how you get in a couple of different modes
of the burst modes for the XP140. On the back of the camera you’ll find a
dedicated burst mode button. Pressing it the first time will get jump you into
high speed mode and you have a choice of either 10 frames per second, 5 frames per
second or 3 frames per second. Depending on the mode that you have the camera set
into. You may not be able to jump down to 4K resolution. I suggest you put it into the P mode first and then you can jump
into 4k resolution. Pressing the button again and will drop down to 4k burst mode.
Now when you press the main shutter button it’ll capture 15 frames during one second at 4k resolution and you’ll be able to play those back on
your TV set again or be able to share those images directly and immediately. So
that’s a great way to be able to capture exactly the a point of action that
you’re looking for with the XP140. The XP140 has a few different self timer
modes allowing you to either get into the frame yourself or wait until your
subject is smiling before it starts taking photos. Here’s how you get into
those various modes. Press down on the control ring and you’ve got the self
timer mode and you can choose either two seconds, this is great if you have the
camera on a tripod and you want to make sure there’s no camera shake. When
you press the shutter button the camera will wait two seconds and then take the
picture. Alternate there’s ten seconds this will allow you to time to be able
to get into the frame yourself. There’s also face auto shutter. As soon
as the camera recognizes the face it will start taking photos. There’s also a
smile. The camera will wait until the subject is smiling before it will start
taking photos. There’s also buddy and you have three
different choices of the two people that are in the picture you can either have
near, close up or super close. There’s also a group shot at which point you can
choose between one and four people and the camera will wait until it’s
recognizes the specified number of people before it starts taking the
photos. Let’s see face auto shutter. Press the Menu/OK button to confirm your
choice and now the camera will wait until it sees a face and as soon as it
sees a face it’ll start taking photos and continue to take photos until you
press the display back button. Those are just some of the features found on the
Finepix XP140, hope you enjoy it and found out a few things about your camera.
If you should have any questions about this video feel free to leave them in
the comment section below. Subscribe to our Youtube channel and you’ll be
notified whenever there’s new videos posted. You can follow us on Twitter
@fujiguys look for us on Facebook as well as Instagram and until next time
I’m Gord of the Fuji Guys thanks for Watching!

IMPROVE IMAGE SHOT ON RED DIGITAL CAMERA BETTER! / IPP2 color science / Workflow in Davinci Resolve

IMPROVE IMAGE SHOT ON RED DIGITAL CAMERA BETTER! / IPP2 color science / Workflow in Davinci Resolve


hello guys my name is Hugo. today let’s talk about IPP2. this is gonna be a little bit technical and for Red users only. so what is IPP2. IPP2 is the image processing pipeline. so basically it’s a Color space for red cameras. many music videos, commercials, films or documentaries are shot on red cameras, however, for some reason editors and colorist don’t take advantages of IPP2 I know it’s a relatively new a color pipeline, but it’s been out since 2017 and still not many people actually know about it. well, I think IPP2 is something that actually convinced me to become a red owner. The thing is that red actually didn’t provide enough of dynamic range and highlight roll-off like you get from Arri Alexa. well it was before I took advantage of IPP2. For Instance, image from helium sensor using IPP2 looks amazing. it has a very very high dynamic range and the highlight roll off is very pleasant. this pipeline preserves more information, more details and better processing of challenging colors like neon lights color mix and overall contrast light mix but even if you don’t have helium or monstro sensor, it still works on any other camera from red lineup. IPP2 will definitely make your image look better but you need to set it up in post, because by default it’s set to legacy color science and here or how you can change it. so I use DaVinci Resolve for this. so when you go to color tab and we go to raw settings here we can change clip and usually color science by default set to original or version 2. and you need to change this one to IPP2. then probably by default it’s gonna set To rec709 or any other color profile but you need to select redwidegamutRGB if you want to choose rec 709 straight away you can just choose here but I prefer to choose it to log so I have more flexibility in manipulation. so for the footage so I’ll go ahead and choose Log3G10 and you see the footage become very flat, but no worries you can go to red website and you can download IPP2 output presets once you download the presets you have two folders one is rec.709 and the other one rec2020. I use the Rec709 Because most of the devices they still use rec709. and here you can see lots of luts. you have a different settings. it has no contrast, medium contrast, low contrast, high contrast and also on the other side you also see that there is a hard size, medium size, Soft size, very soft size. those are highlight roll off. for me personally my favorite one is high contrast very soft so when we go here when I apply this lut, I go and apply rec.709 and I go high contrast very soft straightaway you have very beautiful image with enough contrast with enough color saturation and everything from there of course you can manipulate so this little trick will help you to make your red image look a lot better and if you for instance have many cameras it’s a lot better to color match those cameras when they use IPP2 color science. I hope this information was useful for you. Hit like if you like this video click on subscribe button if you want to watch more videos like this thank you for your time. bye

How to add a cover image to ePub and Kindle eBooks (Step-by-step guide)


Hello Folks. ePub and Kindle eBook readers can use a cover image to display a representation of the eBook in its virtual library. It is easy to define that cover picture in HelpNDoc. Place the cover picture you’d like to use in the library. It’s recommended that you use a .jpg or .png that is either 600×800 or 300×400 pixels. To add your cover picture to your library, click the ‘Add item’ button in the ‘Library’ group on the ‘Home’ ribbon tab. From the pop up menu that appears, select ‘Add picture’. The ‘Insert an item into the library..’ window will now be displayed. First, enter a name for the cover photo. This will be the name that will be displayed in your library items list. Now, go ahead and click on the ‘No file included’ link and then select ‘Include file’ from the drop down menu. The Windows file explorer window will now be displayed for you to choose the cover picture you’d like to add to your library. Once you have selected the cover picture click the ‘Open’ button. The ‘No file included’ link will now change to ‘One file included’ indicating that the file selection was successful. Now simply click the ‘OK’ button to add your cover picture to your library. Now, click the top half of the ‘Generate help’ button in the ‘Project’ group on the Home ribbon tab. This displays the ‘Generate documentation’ window. Select either the ePub or Mobi/Kindle build you’d like to add a cover image to in the build list. If the Template settings tab is not displayed, click Customize. On the ‘Template settings’ tab, click Cover Picture. This displays a drop-down menu of the images in your library. Simply select the image that you’d like to display on the cover of your eBook. Now just click the ‘Generate’ button to publish your eBook. Once the documentation has complete the generation process, a ‘Summary’ will be displayed. Click the link to view your eBook with the new cover. HelpNDoc makes it easy to create a professional looking ePub and Kindle eBook by providing an easy way to define a cover picture. Readers of your eBooks will be able to quickly spot it in their virtual library. HelpNDoc is free for personal use and evaluation purposes. You can download it at www.helpndoc.com and see other video guides at www.helpndoc.com/online-help Thanks for Watching!

Samsung MU8000 TV Picture Settings – RTINGS.com

Samsung MU8000 TV Picture Settings – RTINGS.com


Hi, I’m Daniel from Rtings.com In this video, we will go over how-to setup
and get the best picture for the Samsung MU8000 which is also equivalent to the MU7000 in
Europe. We will describe any adjustments you should make for different content, such as
movies, sports, gaming and HDR. The first thing to note is that all of the
inputs to the TV are located on an external one connect mini box. Unlike the Samsung QLED
TVs, this doesn’t require a secondary power connection, but it also isn’t in wall rated
which may cause cabling issues for some people. If you have a receiver or soundbar which supports
ARC to route the TVs sound through external speakers then you should connect it to HDMI
4. Other than this, the inputs are identical so connect your devices to any of them. Also
note that there is no support for older composite or component inputs on Samsung TVs with an
external One Connect or One Connect Mini box. When you connect an input, the TV will try to identify what it is and change to the appropriate
input icon and label. This usually works well, but if you’re using a PC and want to ensure
support for Chroma 4:4:4 then you can go to the ‘Home’ menu and press up on the HDMI
port to set the corresponding PC icon. This is the only icon which affects the picture
quality, the rest are all cosmetic. With your inputs setup, the next thing you want to do is adjust the bandwidth of the
HDMI port to use full HDMI 2.0 capabilities. This can be done either by going through ‘Settings’
->‘General’ ->‘External Device Manager’ ->‘HDMI UHD Color’ or by holding the
voice button on the remote and saying ‘HDMI UHD Color’. This voice option also works
well for all the settings and menus shown in the video. Adjusting this setting is only
required for high bandwidth devices such as HDR consoles or for PC use but only very rarely
causes incompatibility issues. In the same ‘External Device Manager’
menu is an option for ‘Game Mode’. You should enable this if you want the lowest
input lag for gaming, and it will disable some picture processing. You can still follow
the rest of this setting guide, but some options will be disabled.
If the HDMI Black Level setting is available then it should almost always be left at ‘Auto’.
This setting corresponds to the video range of the input device. A mismatch here will
result in crushed dark scenes or a raised black level and loss of contrast.
Now, we will go up a menu and into ‘Eco Solution’. Disable everything here to avoid
the brightness adjusting automatically, as it can be distracting.
Under ‘Picture’ adjust the ‘Picture Mode’. ‘Movie’ is the most accurate
picture mode and allows the most setting customization, so is the one we will use here.
The bulk of the picture settings lie in the ‘Expert Settings’ menu. To better understand
how they work, we will be showing measurements of our MU8000 which correspond to each of
the settings we go over. The ‘White Level’ measurement is the brightness of the screen
on a checkerboard pattern. Adjusting the ‘Backlight’ option will affect the overall screen brightness
without reducing the picture quality, so adjust this to suit your room and if you have a bright
room then set it to maximum. Also, for HDR content you should set the ‘Backlight’
to maximum to produce the most vivid highlights. The ‘Brightness’ slider works differently on 2017 Samsung TVs compared to previous years
and other manufacturers TVs. We can see the effect it has by measuring the ‘Gamma’
curve which shows the relationship between dark and bright areas. A high gamma value
results in deeper dark scenes and a lower value results in a brighter overall image.
The left hand side of the plot affects darker scenes, while the right hand side affects
bright scenes. For example, a high gamma value toward the left-hand side of the plot results
in deeper dark scenes but may result in loss if details in a bright room. Movies are mastered
to target a flat value of 2.2 across the range so this is what we aim for.
When the ‘Brightness’ setting is adjusted it affects the gamma in dark areas, rather
than raising the black level. You can increase the ‘Brightness’ to bring out dark scene
details or decrease it for a deeper image. We leave this to the default value of 0 as
it is closest to the reference target. The contrast option affects the brightness range of the display. This should be set as
high as possible without losing details in highlights. The default value of 95 is provides
a good brightness range, without loss of details. A sharpness setting of 0 results in no added sharpness. If you are watching lower quality
content and don’t mind sharpening artifacts then you can increase it slightly, but too
high values will result in excessive ringing around edges. To see the effect of the color setting we
will show measurements on a CIE diagram. The squares on the diagram show the target color
– which is what a calibrated display should achieve. The circles show our measurements
from this MU8000. Increasing the ‘Color’ results in a more saturated image, but results
in less accuracy and may cause saturated details to be clipped. Decreasing it too far results
in loss of vibrancy. The default value of 50 is best for an accurate image.
The ‘Tint’ setting adjusts the balance between Green and Red, which has the effect
of rotating colors on the CIE xy diagram as shown.
The default value with equal amounts of green and red is the most accurate. ‘Digital Clean View’ is a noise reduction
feature which clears up low quality content. Enable this for DVDs or cable. ‘Apply Picture Settings’ allows you to
change whether the picture adjustments are adjusted on an input-by-input basis or are
the same across all inputs of the TV. If you prefer a brighter image when gaming for example,
you can use different settings for a Blu-ray player and console. For most people it is
best to use the same settings for all inputs. The ‘Auto Motion Plus Settings’ menu is
for motion interpolation and image flicker options. To learn more about how these affect
the motion performance, see the videos linked in the description. These settings aren’t
available in game or PC mode, to avoid adding input lag. If you enjoy the soap opera effect
when watching movies or cable TV then select the ‘Custom’ option and increase ‘Judder
Reduction’ to 2 or 3. If you enjoy a strong soap opera effect and don’t mind too many
artifacts, then you can also increase ‘Blur Reduction’ to a similar value. For our calibration
we will leave both of these sliders on 0. ‘LED Clear Motion’ flickers the backlight to clear up motion. If you’re watching sports
or other fast motion then you can activate this, however the resulting flicker is distracting
to some people and it does decrease the overall screen brightness. ‘Local Dimming’ allows some areas of the
screen to dim and produce darker scenes. Unfortunately, it doesn’t work well on the MU8000 and produces
blooming, so we recommend setting it to ‘Low’. It is not possible to disable on this TV. ‘Contrast Enhancer’ affects the relationship
between dark and bright areas of a scene. You should disable it if you want the most
accurate image. The ‘HDR+’ mode doesn’t enable HDR, but rather adjusts the settings to make SDR
content look HDR-like. It generally produces an overly saturated image as shown in the
xy plot. If you do prefer a more vivid image then you can activate it, but we don’t recommend
it if you’re trying to match the director’s intent.
‘Film Mode’ is only available with certain input signals, such as 1080i sources. If this
option is available and you’re watching a movie, such as from cable TV, then activate
this. To see the effect of the ‘Color Tone’
option we use the same plot. Setting the color tone to a cooler value results in the whole
image shifting towards blue. Warmer values look yellow or reddish. We calibrate to the
standard 6500K color temperature that movies are mastered at which corresponds to a value
of ‘Warm2’, but you can adjust this to your preference.
In the ‘White Balance’ menu are more advanced adjustments to the white point at different
brightness. These require measurement equipment to set accurately. You can find our values
in the review for reference, but we don’t recommend copying them as the best values
vary on a unit-by-unit basis. The ‘Gamma’ option will change automatically to the correct curve depending on the content
metadata. For Hybrid Log Gamma content this will default to HLG, for HDR10 or Dolby Vision
content it adjusts to ST. 2084 and for SDR content the correct value is BT. 1886. The
effect of the gamma slider can be measured with the same plot as before. Increasing the
value results in a lower gamma curve, which increases the overall brightness of the image
and brings out details in dark scenes. A lower value increases the curve and produces deeper
dark scenes, but may crush details in a bright room. You can increase the slider in a bright
room, but we use a value of 0 as it is closest to our 2.2 target. The ‘RGB Only’ setting filters the primary
colors of the image for calibration by eye. The ‘Color Space Settings’ affects the
target color space. The ‘Custom’ value allows for calibration of the color space,
but this requires measurement equipment and the best values change from unit to unit.
The ‘Native’ setting produces a more vivid image in SDR, but results in loss of accuracy.
For accurate colors leave this to ‘Auto’ for both SDR and HDR content.
So that’s it. You can find the screenshots of all the settings we recommend on our website
via the link below. And if you like this video, subscribe to our channel, or become a contributor,
and see you next time.

2017/02/14: A Picture of Mohamed


Is This a Picture of Mohamed? Something woke me up at 5:30 this morning. Maybe it was my Conscience Maybe it was God Take your pick. I’ll go for conscience. In any case This week Canada’s Government is going to consider an Anti-Islamophobia Motion M103 in Parliament Before that happens, I have some things to say. Moses was a murderer Christ was a bastard And Mohamed? Mohamed was a… Mohamed was a… Mohamed was a… Holy Man whose Every Word and Action was Correct I ask Muslims worldwide: Can I say anything else? On the week, Canada’s government is going to discuss anti-Islamophobia motion M103 in parliament. I ask Muslims worldwide: Can I say anything else? I ask Muslims in the West: Can I say anything else? I ask Muslims in Canada: Can I say anything else? I ask Iqra Khalid, sponsor of M103 in Canada: Can I say anything else? Is This a Picture of Mohamed? Where do I cross the line? This Is a Picture of Christ This Is a Picture of Mo This Is a Picture of Mo This Is a Picture of Moses This Is a Picture of Mo This Is a Picture of Mo Is This a Picture of Mohamed? This might be a Picture of Mohamed Did I cross the line? When do I become Salman Rushdie? I’m a Westerner. I am Salman Rushdie. Iqra Khalid Are you Salman Rushdie? When do I become a Danish Cartoonist? I’m a Westerner. I am a Danish cartoonist. Iqra Khalid Are you a Danish Cartoonist? When do I become Charlie Hebdo? I’m a Westerner. I can criticize So that things can improve So that we’re not trapped in the dead past So that we’re not trapped in the embrace of the corpses of the past. I am Charlie Hebdo Iqra Khalid Are you Charlie Hebdo? Which side are you on? Every Westerner is Salman Rushdie. Every Westerner is a Danish cartoonist. Every Westerner is Charlie Hebdo. Who is Iqra Khalid? When push comes to shove, as it will this week, Where is she going to stand? Muslims of the world, on the week of anti-Islamophobia motion 103 in Canada… Muslims of the west, on the week of anti-Islamophobia motion 103 in Canada… Muslims of Canada, on the week of anti-Islamophobia motion 103 in Canada… Iqra Khalid, of Canada, who sponsored the motion after the murders in Quebec City On the Week of Anti-Islamophobia Motion 103 in Canada Can I say: This is a picture of the prophet Mohamed? Because if I can’t It’s not Islamophobia. Is This a picture of Mohamed? Is This a picture of Mohamed?